Best Cranking Battery

[Robo]

Attachment 67034Attachment 67035

This is mine shortly, well when I mount it and wire it up after charging it.

https://www.youtube.com/results?q=maxwell+boostcap

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ultracapacitor

But it's marked 16 volts why use /show us that?.

[LostBenji]

LOL, These are capacitors, the voltage is the highest, safe working voltage.

[Cuppa]

LOL, These are capacitors, the voltage is the highest, safe working voltage.

So how are they used? in addition to, or instead of a battery? If 'instead of' how many 'shots' do you get at starting a motor which, for whatever reason, is being hard to start?

What are the advantages/disadvantages of using them?

[LostBenji]

I will do up a thread soon to avoid thread-crapping this one but basically used in conjunction with lead-acid battery (much smaller now). The end result is huge amounts of current that can be released instantly with very little volt-drop resulting fast crank and starting.
The size I have should crank for about 15-20 seconds on a ZD30 without lead-acid battery connected.

[Robo]

So how are they used? in addition to, or instead of a battery? If 'instead of' how many 'shots' do you get at starting a motor which, for whatever reason, is being hard to start?

What are the advantages/disadvantages of using them?

Also how long would it take to recharge?.
and the obvious $$ installed.
And wiring it in would compliment any issue in voltage drop--
EG in sound system,
or multiple power windows operating at the same time?

[LostBenji]

1. Also how long would it take to recharge?.
2. and the obvious $$ installed.
3. And wiring it in would compliment any issue in voltage drop--
4. EG in sound system,
5. or multiple power windows operating at the same time?

1. Only moments if a normal start as they recharge from battery and alternator. If you drain all, then you would wait for alternator and could take longer.
2. Prices vary a lot depending on a going unit like mine or if you build your own from scratch. Mine was around 500 clams but if you have time and patients, under 200 is possible.
3. They can discharge in the multi-kiloamps area, 2-gauge would be wise.
4. See above, in my audio days, we used to use 1 farad "stiffening" caps for systems, these are WAY bigger, you will figure out what they will do for a decent sized amp.
5. Can't help you with electric windows unless you have upgraded ALL the wiring, I am yet to see a vehicle with decent wiring that doesn't suck.

[MB]

Hi All, Got a feeling my Cranker on the Ute has had its day, whats the best battery to use as a Cranker on the 4.2TDi? I'm sure its open to peoples opinion but would like something that will last. Cheers Fish

Personal preference only for $$ & Longevity :-) Optima Red Top for 'Crank' & 'Yellow/Blue' for auxiliaries, same/same I believe? Damn things keep going and charge as quick as;
https://youtu.be/AM5EYO5wWMA

[LostBenji]

Optima make good batteries from my experiences.
The best battery I have years ago in my VS SS 5.0L was a 13-plate Odyssey. Those suckers lasted forever.

[Chimo]

I use these in the Patrol and the boat both for starting and for house
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[Rock Trol]

My Century Overlander was 4 years old when I replaced it with an Optima Yellow Top earlier this year. It was still cranking but was down on cranking capacity after testing. I got a decent deal on the Optima and decided to change it over.

i hope the Optoma lasts though as a couple of months later my second battery (Deka Intimidator AGM) expanded and died. It was only 3.5 years old. The turbo cooked it. I am a bit nervous now about putting the optima under the hood but it's good to read on this thread that they seem to last. When I removed the battery and tray I went for a short drive so that the car came up to operating temp (86 deg Celsius water temp) and then opened the bonnet. You could really feel the radiant heat from the turbo. On the other side of the engine the crank battery was only warm to the touch. I hope my optima lasts 7 years plus.