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21st May 2017, 06:55 PM
#21
SkippyGU
Alright sounds pretty straight forward. What should I use to clean out intake manifold? All the carbon build up?
Currently own a ZD30 2000 GU patrol with a dead injector pump
about to start a build on a TD42 motor to go in the car and basically rebuild the whole car into a machine of a rig
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21st May 2017 06:55 PM
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22nd May 2017, 02:32 PM
#22
Patrol God
Carbie cleaner should do the trick, make sure all components are dry
before re-assembly
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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23rd May 2017, 06:48 PM
#23
Originally Posted by
lmath56
Hi,
I have a 2003 GU Patrol 3L Diesel,
About a week ago when I was driving, I turned a corner and accelerated off,
When I was in 4th or 5th gear and was at about 2500 RPM, it seemed to lose pulling power.
I put the clutch in and revved it a bit and it seemed fine, I drove around for a while and all seemed good, but then it happened again.
I didn't notice it again for about another week, when it happened while just accelerating up a road.
I haven't noticed it since.
On all cases I wasn't accelerating hard.
My Patrol has a Dawes valve set to 15 PSI.
The engine was reconditioned about a year and a half ago and had a new fuel pump installed.
Does any one have any idea what could cause this?
Thanks,
Lucas
The mechanic looked at the car today and found that the MAF was quite dusty, so he gave that a clean.
The fuel filter had quite a bit of water in the separator so he replaced that.
One of the hoses near the turbo was leaking a bit of oil. It was pushed back on and tightened,
He took it for a drive and it seemed fine, and i did as well. It seems to start a bit faster and have slightly more power now.
I will need to tow a trailer full of tiles and concrete in the coming days so that will really test whether this fixes the issue or not.
I will update if there are any further issues,
Thanks everyone for your help!!
This is the first time I have used this forum, and I will definitely be back!
Lucas
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24th May 2017, 06:14 AM
#24
Expert
Make sure you do Lucas...we'll want to know how you get on.
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24th May 2017, 11:37 AM
#25
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
lmath56
It didn't go up too fast, I didn't strain it.
I got it to about 400 Max.
Yes when it lost power it seemed to get a bit warmer than usual.
I will definitely give the MAF a clean
Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk
Disconnect the battery when you clean the MAF
will re-set the ECU, Check vacume hoses for cracks etc
make sure they are in good nick
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:
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24th May 2017, 02:11 PM
#26
Patrol God
Also if you're going to be towing bricks and concrete tiles
have a good look at strengthening the rear shock towers
they will crack
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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24th May 2017, 06:07 PM
#27
SkippyGU
Glad to know we could help you Lucas please let us know how you go with everything after you test it and what not.
Good luck
Currently own a ZD30 2000 GU patrol with a dead injector pump
about to start a build on a TD42 motor to go in the car and basically rebuild the whole car into a machine of a rig
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25th May 2017, 11:18 AM
#28
Legendary
Just to add another aspect to this conversation, last night it was a bit cool and I was in a 100kph area. As I accelerated I could see the guage go up to the 15psi then over to 16psi. If I continued at this it then went to limp. Normally my dawes is set to 15psi max and I only get 16psi in cold weather. This morning the max at 15psi is back to normal. So here is the theory. I think that the spring tension in the dawes changes just a smidge when it is cold and allows the setting to drift to over 16psi, which is where the limp mode kicks in. When the motor heats up or on a warm day the spring maintains its set point and all is good. Any other thoughts on this?
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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Daveyboyjunior (25th May 2017)
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25th May 2017, 06:03 PM
#29
Expert
Hi there,
On your gauge, you may see a little bounce over your set limit.
To make your Dawes a little more responsive some guys (me included) just pop the spring out and stretch it just very slightly, and this added tension within the chamber should help the Dawes stay on your chosen limit.
Just my thoughts...
We don't have big temp differences over here unless it's freak weather.
Look at my post count... I've scored a century who hoo.
Gonna thank you for that 4bye4!
Last edited by Daveyboyjunior; 25th May 2017 at 06:07 PM.
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25th May 2017, 08:58 PM
#30
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Daveyboyjunior
Hi there,
On your gauge, you may see a little bounce over your set limit.
To make your Dawes a little more responsive some guys (me included) just pop the spring out and stretch it just very slightly, and this added tension within the chamber should help the Dawes stay on your chosen limit.
Just my thoughts...
We don't have big temp differences over here unless it's freak weather.
Look at my post count... I've scored a century who hoo.
Gonna thank you for that 4bye4!
Sorrite mate.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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