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It is true to a degree most engine wear occurs when cold so ideally you want to reach operating temp relatively quickly without putting stress on the engine.
The prelube thing mudnut was discussing might be a good way of addressing part of that issue.
Thanx for that information mate. I've had no idea you've fitted a manual choke.
What was wrong with the auto choke?
i know it's not bullet proof system, 'cos the auto choke is a bi-metal heater operated electric one, and isn't designed to respond
to engine heat level at all.
Manual one is ok at the hands of somebody like you who knows how to use and also remembers to do that all the time.
Manual choke setup should be better for the engine as long as you remember to close and open the choke each time you cold start the engine.
I've also been thinking on installing a manual setup, then I realized there's a vacuum assisted choke adjustment system(choke breaker) in the Nikki carby that help adjust the choke valve according to level of intake vacuum present, which would be rpm dependent. Mine appeared to be working fine with that choke breaker vacuum assisted diaphragm.
If it starts to give too much trouble with petrol in the future, I will start experimenting with a manual setup.
ATM, I think the choke breaker mechanism & the bimetal electric auto choke appears to be in tune.
Don't bother with the manual choke if your auto choke is working. The choke break diaphragm split on mine so I fixed it with what I had. They are quite expensive to get repaired.
Don't bother with the manual choke if your auto choke is working. The choke break diaphragm split on mine so I fixed it with what I had. They are quite expensive to get repaired.
You can scavenge it from a used old Nikki carby. I've got two spare carbies. One of them is from a TB42, but it's the same thing.
I think the choke breaker is good in it, as well as the auto choke. If you want it, let me know. You can have it when you go pass this way.
BTW, it's the backfires that usually stuff up these diaphragms. For some reason, mine's survived all the backfires.
It was full time 4wd, the same set up as the early four pot Prado. I put muddies on it and it would go where where the likes of Rodeos, Hiluxes and Navaras fear to tread, as it was lighter and had a lower centre of gravity. It also had a centre diff lock. Its main faults were its lack of ground clearance and the need for head gaskets replacement . The SEC used them for a while too.
Last edited by mudnut; 21st August 2016 at 11:06 AM.
It was full time 4wd, the same set up as the early four pot Prado. I put muddies on it and it would go where where the likes of Rodeos, Hiluxes and Navaras fear to tread, as it was lighter and had a lower centre of gravity. It also had a centre diff lock. Its main faults were its lack of ground clearance and the need for head gaskets replacement . The SEC used them for a while too.
i drove one of these ... my beard grew 3 inches in the time it took to get from 0 to 60 km/hr. its about the same speed as my na td42 the rolla was auto
i drove one of these ... my beard grew 3 inches in the time it took to get from 0 to 60 km/hr. its about the same speed as my na td42 the rolla was auto
Ha ha. Seriously, it towed way better than my RB30, so that gives you an idea of the sizzling performance I now have on tap
Centre diff lock is an impressive feature. Ground clearance might have been able to be addressed with some bigger wheels and suspension work. I've driven an AWD once in my life(a Subaru), and I felt very much in control, comparing to rear wheel drive or front wheel drive cars. I would love to see a little AWD, the size of a Holden Barina, Hyundai Getz, etc.
Originally Posted by AB
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