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Thread: My 2013 Cab Chassis

  1. #11
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    Next up, was some tray covering to protect my bags etc carried in the back.

    So down to Bunnings and purchase some Blue'ish Marine Carpet.

    I thought it would be easier to remove the Fridge Slide rather then going through the process of trying to trimming the carpet around the Fridge Slide still in place, which looking back on it I'm glade I did.


    20200627_104715.jpg

    Also done, was securing holding points for my Foldable Hand Trolley and Entrenching Tool on the back of the Shelves, and a Mounting Point for my Spine Board on top of the Shelving.

    20200627_104733.jpg
    Last edited by Grant209; 27th June 2020 at 11:06 AM.
    Grant

    Penrith Region
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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grant209 View Post
    Cuppa the inverter is mainly to power minor stuff - computer, printer, Sat phone charger etc . . . . such as if I'm working as a Event Medic and need to print Casualty Reports for injured parties etc.

    I know it will run my Vac Vacuum and angle grinder . . . but they are extreme
    Was hoping you wouldn't say that, but it's why I asked.

    Modified Square wave output & sensitive switchmode electronics as found in computers & their chargers are not a good mix. It will run them, but will slowly damage them. I was running my laptop from the modified square wave output from a large solar system where we were caretaking for 6 months. At around the 3 month mark the power supply on the motherboard failed. Major inconvenience (but at least I had it backed up), & a new laptop required. Ran the new laptop off the 350w Pure sine wave inverter in our car only. The charger ran cooler & without the very slight buzzing sound it would make if plugged into the modified square wave supply. You may get away with it, but if you have stuff on the computer you don't want to lose (as most of us do) & don't want something you depend upon failing when you need it, it's not a risk I would take.

    No problem using it for the angle grinder, vacuum etc. Not sure about the printer, & I'd be cautious about using it with any chargers which may contain any electronic 'smarts'.

    A smaller wattage pure sine wave inverter would suit the computer & charging. I also use a 180w for that purpose in our Tvan. My 350w one in the car covers me for the fast charger for my Makita 18v batteries.

    Personally I consider the Victron Phoenix range of small pure sine wave inverters to be great - reliable & dependable (unlike some I've had) at very affordable prices..... & they come with a 5 year warranty. No affiliation - just a very satisfied customer.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-...8AAOSwwgBcOAcx

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-...kAAOSwhrpcRVHf

    Couldn't find a 12v 180 model listed on ebay at the moment, but they are often there. As it is the 250w is cheap enough not to worry about it.


    Ps. Is the micro switch box thingo wireless? Do you have a link for it? Just interested - haven't seen anything like that before.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 27th June 2020 at 10:07 AM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Was hoping you wouldn't say that, but it's why I asked.

    Modified Square wave output & sensitive switchmode electronics as found in computers & their chargers are not a good mix. It will run them, but will slowly damage them. I was running my laptop from the modified square wave output from a large solar system where we were caretaking for 6 months. At around the 3 month mark the power supply on the motherboard failed. Major inconvenience (but at least I had it backed up), & a new laptop required. Ran the new laptop off the 350w Pure sine wave inverter in our car only. The charger ran cooler & without the very slight buzzing sound it would make if plugged into the modified square wave supply. You may get away with it, but if you have stuff on the computer you don't want to lose (as most of us do) & don't want something you depend upon failing when you need it, it's not a risk I would take.

    No problem using it for the angle grinder, vacuum etc. Not sure about the printer, & I'd be cautious about using it with any chargers which may contain any electronic 'smarts'.

    A smaller wattage pure sine wave inverter would suit the computer & charging. I also use a 180w for that purpose in our Tvan. My 350w one in the car covers me for the fast charger for my Makita 18v batteries.

    Personally I consider the Victron Phoenix range of small pure sine wave inverters to be great - reliable & dependable (unlike some I've had) at very affordable prices..... & they come with a 5 year warranty. No affiliation - just a very satisfied customer.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-...8AAOSwwgBcOAcx

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victron-...kAAOSwhrpcRVHf

    Couldn't find a 12v 180 model listed on ebay at the moment, but they are often there. As it is the 250w is cheap enough not to worry about it.
    Cuppa to my best approach, near 80% of my Electronic gear - Printer, UHF Radio, Amateur Radio Equipment . . . powered within the canopy . . . are all 12volt. I try my best to keep all my Electrical gear a 12 volt base capability, to allow for the ease of power supply and charging etc.

    About the only thing I use the Inverter for, is for my Bunnings Al Cheap'o Ozito 18v Drill, and for when I am working as a Event Medic, with my very Old & Basic Small Windows Netbook Computer that the Battery is shoot, but has still run ok off the Inverter for the past 8 years. Not much worth stealing by anyone if seen at Events, can be knocked around 4WD'ing, and if the Inverter dose blow it up, I can print from my tablet if needed, so all up the inverter get's very little use.

    But thanks for the heads up, if my shitty little Notebook dose finally die, I'll take note and look at something more suitable as you have suggested.
    Last edited by Grant209; 27th June 2020 at 10:12 AM.
    Grant

    Penrith Region
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    When the Patrol was delivered . . . like the two side drawers . . . . the rear drawer . . . a Box Drawer affixed between the Shelving, approximately 1100mm long, 400mm wide, 200mm deep. this drawer's runners were sized, to open it my son and I forced the drawer open . . . but the bearings were buggered and we were not able to push the drawer back in again, and as a result . . . had to take the angle grinder to the drawer runners and remove the drawer completely to be able to close the rear canopy panel door.

    Anyway . . . it wasn't a priority to replace the Drawer Slide, so the Drawer sat out the back of the shed till Late May . . . when I had time to replace the Drawer Runners.

    UES International www.uesint.com has a outlet just up the road to me, which I have found very useful. As the Drawer holds less then 50kg all up, I went for a 1m Bottom Mount Draw Slide rather then side mount, which allowed the draw to be fully pulled out and tilt down and sit on the canopy door base, making access to my storage box's a little easier.

    Drawer-Slides-Medium-Duty-Bottom-Mount.jpg

    So stored in it are Kitchen Box, Training Paperwork Box, Winch/Tyre Accessory Box, Air Compressor, Tie Downs Bag

    99122082_10217988777736484_277292159600689152_n.jpg

    98359069_10217988777136469_7933717877557821440_n.jpg

    On the tray floor below the Box Draw, I placed wooden slats to allow 20lt storage boxs to slide across the floor easier.
    these's box's include: Spear Work Clothes Box, Electrical Bit & Pieces Box, Nut/Bolt/Screw Box, Grease Gun.

    98196627_10217988778096493_6255949982105337856_n.jpg
    Grant

    Penrith Region
    Sydney NSW.

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    On top, I fitted my Amber and Red LED's to both the front and rear Roof Bars.

    I modified and reused the Ladder Rack System to take my Rescue Basket, positioned on the passenger side of the Canopy. The Ladder Rack System also now holds 1x LED Work/Scene Light, which is somewhat protected from tree limbs etc while out 4WDing sitting under the Rack.

    Attachment 81340

    In the future, I have a 30watt Solar Panel sitting in the shed doing nothing. The plan is to mount the Solar Panel in-between the Ladder Rack under the Rescue Basket to trickle charge my Auxiliary Battery, as I use to do with it on my D22 Navara.

    Around Mid June 2020, I reused and fitted my Rhino Roof Basket.

    This is a 2000L x 600W Basket used to carry my OzTent, Camp Stretcher and 4kg Gas Bottle. Given the Canopy Roof Bars are 2100mm apart, and the bottom of the roof basket is 1000mm long, the bottom of the basket doesn't quiet reach between the front and rear bars - 50mm short either end to secure it to the bars, so the basket is fitted too 2x Lengths of 4mm Angle-line under the basket, thus the two lengths of timber in the basket. A Plus with the Angle-line, is that the Angleline also gives the basket extra strength in it's mid section and also allows a mounting point for my Drivers Side LED Work/Scene Light.

    Attachment 81341

    The two lengths of timber also allow the OzTent to slide over the 50mm square wire mesh easily, I intend to replace the two lengths with one length of Plywood in the near future..

    Below, is the rear view showing the rear facing Amber/Red LED's, My Rear Reverse/Work Lights and the 90mm PVC tubing that holds my Fishing Rod.
    The Rear Reverse/Work Lights are configured to switch on with my Reversing Lights, and can be Manually Switched on from the Power Board next to the Fridge.

    Attachment 81342
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Grant209; 27th June 2020 at 11:52 AM.
    Grant

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post


    Ps. Is the micro switch box thingo wireless? Do you have a link for it? Just interested - haven't seen anything like that before.
    I found the link you posted to this unit which I'd missed 1st time around.

    It does look like a neat solution, but try as I might I can't quite get my head around how it does what it does. I've watched the video & looked at advertising material, & even a couple of youtube video of self installations.
    Sooo.... the switch box replaces the need for multiple relays in multiple circuits. A relay utilises a a thin cable & low current to operate a 'switch' to carry higher current via heavier cables between power source (battery) & the 'appliance' eg. driving lights. There do not appear to be any relays in the 'control box', it looks to be a box containing multiple fuse holders & fuses with common busbars? So nothing in the control box is switched? If so then all the switching must be done inside the switch panel inside the cab, but that is where I'm confused. Depending on where you look, the unit is supplied with either a 60amp or a 100amp circuit breaker meaning that this is the unit's max capacity. But the cable running to the switch panel, doesn't, from what I can see look anything like heavy enough to carry that sort of current. I also find it hard to believe that the 'micro switches' would be intended to pass currents of up to 30 amps, but it's possible there is something about micro switches I don't understand, never having used them. Somewhere in the 'system' there surely has to be something capable of switching up to 30 amps dc at a time, & this needs to be fairly robust to resist the tendency to arc that dc has at that level of current.

    I'm sure the product must be suitable for the job it does, just wondering if you, or anyone else can throw any light on how it does it for me? It's got me interested.
    Last edited by Cuppa; 27th June 2020 at 04:01 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    I found the link you posted to this unit which I'd missed 1st time around.

    It does look like a neat solution, but try as I might I can't quite get my head around how it does what it does. I've watched the video & looked at advertising material, & even a couple of youtube video of self installations.
    Sooo.... the switch box replaces the need for multiple relays in multiple circuits. A relay utilises a a thin cable & low current to operate a 'switch' to carry higher current via heavier cables between power source (battery) & the 'appliance' eg. driving lights. There do not appear to be any relays in the 'control box', it looks to be a box containing multiple fuse holders & fuses with common busbars? So nothing in the control box is switched? If so then all the switching must be done inside the switch panel inside the cab, but that is where I'm confused. Depending on where you look, the unit is supplied with either a 60amp or a 100amp circuit breaker meaning that this is the unit's max capacity. But the cable running to the switch panel, doesn't, from what I can see look anything like heavy enough to carry that sort of current. I also find it hard to believe that the 'micro switches' would be intended to pass currents of up to 30 amps, but it's possible there is something about micro switches I don't understand, never having used them. Somewhere in the 'system' there surely has to be something capable of switching up to 30 amps dc at a time, & this needs to be fairly robust to resist the tendency to arc that dc has at that level of current.

    I'm sure the product must be suitable for the job it does, just wondering if you, or anyone else can throw any light on how it does it for me? It's got me interested.
    Cuppa,

    I believe all the Live Circuit Switching is done via the CAN-BUS Control Box. . . . there are a couple of reasons why I believe this.

    1st: Above each fuse, there is a box like shape 10 x10mm, which we think is a micro type relay switch on the circuit board beneath the Heat Shrink, we believe these's are a Circuit Relay Switch . . . a little hard to see and identify with all the Black Heat Shrink covering the whole board, but that's what we think they are.

    Electrical Control Box.jpg

    2nd: To the above right of the Board, there are two Plugs:
    Left: Illumination & Activation Power Plug - White "illumination" / Red "Board Power Switch"
    Right: Micro Switch Panel Plug - Black/Red/Yellow/White

    As you stated, the Micro Switch Panel wiring is too light between the Switch Panel and the Control Box to run a WEACO Fridge,

    3rd: The Micro Switch Panel, as you would expect, each button switches on/off each position.

    In the middle is a Small RED Button.

    Micro Switch Panel.jpg

    At first I thought this was the On/Off button for the whole system, but it is not . . .

    - The Small RED Button will switch Off the already activated items and hold them in memory.
    - if pressed again, it will turn back on the items held in the memory.
    - When pressed and held for 3sec, it will turn off all selected items, and cancel the memory.

    For that season, I believe all the live circuit switching is through the CAN-BUS Control Board.

    For the past 10 years most of the Fire Trucks I drive, have moved away from solid state relay wired circuits to this type of Power Distribution Circuit Boards - or CAN - BUS System to run the various 12 and 24v Electrical Items on the trucks, such as the Red/Blue Emergency Light Beacons, LED Strobe Lights, Sirens, Pump Engagement, Scene Lighting, Storage Locker Lighting, vehicle marker lights etc.

    Switch Panel.jpg

    So for sometime I have been seeing this type concept coming into our industry, and could see the benefits that it offered in having a Single Switch Panel in the cabin rather then having to accommodate multiple toggle switches in the cabin and the wiring harness that goes with them. So when I got the Patrol, knowing I would be looking at hooking up and wanting to be able to switch number of electrical accessories, I started searching for a Remote Switch Panel Type Control Unit that would suit my needs, and slightly more compact then what I was use to seeing on the Fire Trucks, and to my surprise these's popped up in one of the searches I did.

    The control box, from what James and I could work out, is a CAN-BUS circuit type control board with 8x item/accessories connection switching points setup, with a higher current input supply too the board. Each item/accessories connection points has it's own fuse incorporated in the circuit board with a LED to indicate a blown fuse.

    Out of the box, we think for the purpose of amp draw control, the 8x item/accessories connection points are grouped together in Two's, and are stepped down in fuse capacity of: 2x 30amp, 2x 20amp, 2x 10amp, 2x 5amp fused points. But from what we could work out, the fuse step down has nothing to do with the circuit board capacity, rather just a method of controlling the overall current draw on the system.

    Playing around, we found we could swap fuse's around, and there was no difference in the Control Boards operation, so we believe you could operate each accessory point with what ever fuse capability, just having to be mindful of your overall current draw use, so James (my Auto Electrician) believed.

    Power supply wise, the Control Board/Box is activated by a 12v Input to the Control Box, once 12v is supplied the the Micro Switch Panel is illuminated and the Control Box is active. It is recommended that the Control Box be connected direct to your vehicle's battery through either a 60/100amp Circuit Barker, the Micro Switch Panel in return draws it's power from it's connection from the CAN-BUS Control Board. The Micro Switch Panel has a illuminate Level control (white wire), in which you can set the illumination brightness.

    In my insulation, I have reused the Patrol's original Amber Beacon Power Supply to act as a Master Switch for the Control Box.

    On the link to the manufactures website, the manufacture mainly refers to the system being used with auxiliary Lighting, if you were to use this system to activate Front Facing Driving Aid Lights (Driving Lights and LED Bar Lights), you would still need to incorporate a Solid State Relay in the Circuit, in the engine compartment etc . . . to switch the lights on/off independent of this system with the High Beam Switch to comply with the ARD Rules.

    At this stage, I don't know how reliable this system will be. I purchased it for it's Compact Switch Panel and it's convenient mounting options that it offered, rather then trying to find a method of locating 6x Toggle Switches and their wiring harness in the cabin area, which this system has achieved nicely.

    The concept . . . like the Fire Truck industry one, dose allow the Micro Switch Panel . . . or . . . the CAN-BUS Control Box to to be swapped out for the purpose of ease of fault identification and replacement without the need to pull apart a dash/console system . . . although unlike with the fire truck industry . . . I don't keep spears on hand, to be able to swap out and send a faulty unit away for repairs, but in the 10 years I have seen these being used, I have been told my Service only holds 2 Sets of Spear units for some 100 Scania Trucks in service, and they don't get swapped out often.

    Time will tell.
    Last edited by Grant209; 29th June 2020 at 11:53 AM.
    Grant

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    Thanks for taking the time to answer Grant, informative & interesting. I guess the choice is a swings & roundabouts thing. Less wiring/easy replacement vs having to replace an entire control box should a single 'micro relay' fail instead of a single replaceable relay. The 'modern' way.

    Certainly a valid choice, & a neat solution.

    I suppose if a micro relay did fail, it wouldn't be to hard to 'dump' one circuit & move wires & fuses to keep a more essential circuit in operation until a spare could be obtained. (Assuming all the micro relays are similarly rated).

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to answer Grant, informative & interesting. I guess the choice is a swings & roundabouts thing. Less wiring/easy replacement vs having to replace an entire control box should a single 'micro relay' fail instead of a single replaceable relay. The 'modern' way.

    Certainly a valid choice, & a neat solution.

    I suppose if a micro relay did fail, it wouldn't be to hard to 'dump' one circuit & move wires & fuses to keep a more essential circuit in operation until a spare could be obtained. (Assuming all the micro relays are similarly rated).
    Cubba,

    I did consider this unit as well: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-Gang-O...frcectupt=true

    This one dose have traditional solid State Relays rather then the CAN-BUS electronic board type that I went with.

    I could had got by with this 6 Switch Unit, just using it for the following:
    1 - Fridge
    2 - Amber Warning LED's
    3 - Red Warning LED's
    4 - Left Scene Lights
    5 - Right Scene Lights
    6 - Reversing/Rear Scene Lights,

    And just make up separate wiring circuits from the rear Power Board Fused Block for My Internal Canopy Lights, Water Pump and USB Power Box, but I went with the 8 Switch System which dose allow Me to switch off everything but my Fridge . . . such as at night time while in bed to conserve battery power.
    Grant

    Penrith Region
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    Well, a New set of BF Goodrich KM3 Mud LT235/85R16 tyres now on the Patrol . . .

    New Tyres . . . much more quieter then then the Old Worn out set of KM2's that were on it.

    I've never had Mud Tyre's before, never seen the need, only All Terrain Tyres on my other 4wd's, so new age for me, will just have to wait and see what wear I get out of them.
    Grant

    Penrith Region
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