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Thread: Clearview mirrors

  1. #21
    Enjoying the trips macca's Avatar
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    Made a template from an old manual mirror that was in the shed. Then cut out 2 3mm steel plates.

    20170429_115014.jpg
    Cheers
    Macca

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    Clunk (29th April 2017), gubigfish (29th April 2017)

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  4. #22
    Enjoying the trips macca's Avatar
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    Sorted out the wiring.
    Blue/Black w stripe - indicator.
    Black/Black - heater.
    Red/Green - mirror up/down.
    Yellow/Green - mirror left/right.
    Cheers
    Macca

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  6. #23
    Patrol Guru gubigfish's Avatar
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    Macca where did you get yours from? eBay?
    2004 4.2TDi GU ST Ute, 3" Exhaust, UHF, Lightforce Spotties, BFG All Terrains, Steel Winchbar, Winch, Dual Batts, CC Ultimate IC, 4" Snorkel, XLR8 Steps and Scrub bar

  7. #24
    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Depends on whether or not you want to go steel or use the cast alloy main part of the existing bracket , mine is on a GQ and Jff has got his on a GU .
    I have some bits and pieces and a template so will get some photos and try and splain which way I went about it if you like , yours maybe slightly easier wiring wise as I only had three wires in the door for the mirrors I believe some GU's have five .
    Do you want the heated function to work ? For me it's just the blinkers and mirror movement to keep it simpler .
    While your waiting work out if you want to do it in steel or aluminium but either way can I suggest getting a bit of scrap ply or acrylic sheet to make a template of your original mirror and how it fits to the door , my left and right sides were the same for my template just reversed so I only needed the one template .

  8. #25
    Enjoying the trips macca's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gubigfish View Post
    Macca where did you get yours from? eBay?
    @gubigfish, Yes mate, bloody price changed just as I ordered, cost AU$285 delivered and came from China. Didn't notice until I had paid... There were some on there that sold out and others that were out of stock. Time will tell how they perform.

    Quote Originally Posted by GQtdauto View Post
    Depends on whether or not you want to go steel or use the cast alloy main part of the existing bracket , mine is on a GQ and Jff has got his on a GU .
    I have some bits and pieces and a template so will get some photos and try and splain which way I went about it if you like , yours maybe slightly easier wiring wise as I only had three wires in the door for the mirrors I believe some GU's have five .
    Do you want the heated function to work ? For me it's just the blinkers and mirror movement to keep it simpler .
    While your waiting work out if you want to do it in steel or aluminium but either way can I suggest getting a bit of scrap ply or acrylic sheet to make a template of your original mirror and how it fits to the door , my left and right sides were the same for my template just reversed so I only needed the one template .
    @GQtdauto I haven't pulled the mirrors off the car yet.
    The plan was to mount the steel plate using the OEM locations lining it up level etc, then mount the new mirror to the plate leaving the fold back part as is. The hard part will be to hide it all, thinking at the moment to trim the original cover and fill gaps with Sikaflex then paint it. but that is a while away yet.

    If you have a better idea I am all ears!
    Cheers
    Macca

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  10. #26
    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Ok your going with steel then , I used 100x50x2.5 mm RHS for the main bracket but see how it fits on your template , ideal size would have been 90x50 .
    The plastic bush that the mirror pivots on according to mine was close to 32 mm so that's what hole saw I used , you need to work out how far from the edge to put that hole and in my case each 100x50 needed to be 60mm long and distance to bottom edge of hole was about 14 mm ( in other words after you drill the 32mm hole you just need 14mm of the hole .
    If that makes sense ,
    Now you have your template mark the position of the holes that hold mirror onto the door , check and double check then drill a 6mm hole for each one , I reused the studs in the alloy bracket just put a nut on it to hold it to the plate later on you can weld the flat nut door side on and cut the bolt thread otherside off and plug weld it .
    I welded a bolt cut off to about 40 mm to the plate where I thought the coil spring would sit .
    The tang that sits on that spring and where it pivots from determines the angle the mirror sits at , 5mm out makes a big difference .
    I will have to get what my measurements where for the pivot , I also packed the sides of the pivot to hold the tang central to the spring .
    I'll have to do these photos in a few lots my maximum is five photos .
    IMG_7428.JPGIMG_7426.JPGIMG_7427.JPGIMG_7425.JPGIMG_7429.JPG

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  12. #27
    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    The saddle I made up first had no slots in it , the reason for the slots are to allow the mirror to flick forward or back if you hit something as I found out with my first effort .
    IMG_7430.JPGIMG_7431.JPGIMG_7432.JPGIMG_7433.JPGIMG_7434.JPG

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  14. #28
    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Last lot , I used 25x2 flat with holes drilled and 6 mm nuts welded on the bottom side this is what the saddle bolts to and therefore your mirror , you don't get much room for this one side so if I had to do it again would have made the 32mm hole a bit further over .
    IMG_7425.JPGIMG_7426.JPGIMG_7427.JPGIMG_7428.JPGIMG_7429.JPG

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  16. #29
    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macca View Post
    @gubigfish, Yes mate, bloody price changed just as I ordered, cost AU$285 delivered and came from China. Didn't notice until I had paid... There were some on there that sold out and others that were out of stock. Time will tell how they perform

    @GQtdauto I haven't pulled the mirrors off the car yet.
    The plan was to mount the steel plate using the OEM locations lining it up level etc, then mount the new mirror to the plate leaving the fold back part as is. The hard part will be to hide it all, thinking at the moment to trim the original cover and fill gaps with Sikaflex then paint it. but that is a while away yet.

    If you have a better idea I am all ears!

    That could work ok , I just did one side at a time , I used the rubber inner from the original mirror , just trimmed the plate until it was a reasonable good fit , as for the rest you tell me I'm still working it out but if you line up the outer cover you removed from the mirror it almost fits it's just a matter of holding it there which I'm working on , will use black mastic or similar I think to fill the gaps haven't got that far busy doing other things now that the mirrors are in .IMG_7440.JPGIMG_7441.JPG

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  18. #30
    Enjoying the trips macca's Avatar
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    Okay you discarded the OEM fixing.
    I am using steel as I can work with that, not having access to ally welding or experience.
    Also the heater is quite effective at about 2 amps it heated the glass quite quickly, be interesting to see how rain and condensation dissapear.
    You have certainly given me some ideas to mull over. Thanks.
    Cheers
    Macca

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