Coolant is still running too cold?

[dom14]

I find it to have any sensor as close as possible to the original the most practicable and efficient way of getting the correct reading.
Don't know how different your engine is to mine (tb45), but I've got mine just before the thermostat right next to the original one.

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Stock temperature sensor is on the coolant out port on the cylinder head as in below picture.
Today, I extended the aftermarket sensor wire and fitted the sensor right next to the stock one.
Extending the sensor wire didn't upset the temperature reading accuracy that much. About three quarters of
a degree lower than the reading before, so it's ok.
I ran the engine for about ten minutes on idle and temperature didn't go above 63 degrees.
So, it's even worse than the readings I've got before from the T joints of the heater core/LPG converter.
I'm assuming the the thermostat hasn't opened up. So, I'm gonna take the vehicle for a drive tonight and see how it goes.
I'll post the outcome.
If the temperature is still low, then my last temp sensor installation spot is inside the thermostat housing.
If the temperature reading is still low, then I think I would have to say the engine's running bit cold, either due to
thermostat opening up too early or water somehow leaking through the thermostat opening valve/housing.

[dom14]

I've got mine installed on the top radiator hose, which is drivers side on my vehicle. Not sure if it's the right spot, but my temps are reliably between 77-82c depending on weather/load/conditions. About right for my thermostat. It's a mechanical gauge for what it's worth. Think it was a $25 speco meter jobby. Tested it in a boiling pot before fitting and read 100c at boiling so is close enough for me.

So far, I've got 63 degrees from the same spot. I'll take it for a spin tonight and see whether I can hit the temperature at least to be around 75 degrees.

[dom14]

@dom14 Have you got a service manual for the GQ? Haynes etc or the downloadable pdf? I'm sure theres a pic in one of those things showing a diagram of the water flow directions.

Thanx mate. I'm having a look right now, both in Haynes and Gregory's.

[dom14]

Hi Mate, extending the temp wire will make no differance to the reading at your gauge. you said that you moved the sensor to a differant place on the engine. you need to put the sensor in its correct place so it gets the correct coolant reading, then all will be ok.

Thanx mate. I read 99 degrees in boiling water after I extended the sensor wire about an extra meter. Previously it was reading 99.7 in boiling water, so that minor difference is no problem at all for my needs. Yeah, I realized now extending the sensor wire won't make a huge difference to the sensor voltage/resistance difference to throw out the reading accuracy too much.

[jay see]

Stock temperature sensor in on the coolant out port on the cylinder head as in below picture.
Today, I extended the aftermarket sensor wire and fitted the sensor right next to the stock one.
Extending the sensor wire didn't upset the temperature reading accuracy that much. About three quarters of
a degree lower than the reading before, so it's ok.
I ran the engine for about ten minutes on idle and temperature didn't go above 63 degrees.
So, it's even worse than the readings I've got before from the T joints of the heater core/LPG converter.
I'm assuming the the thermostat hasn't opened up. So, I'm gonna take the vehicle for a drive tonight and see how it goes.
I'll post the outcome.
If the temperature is still low, then my last temp sensor installation spot is inside the thermostat housing.
If the temperature reading is still low, then I think I would have to say the engine's running bit cold, either due to
thermostat opening up too early or water somehow leaking through the thermostat opening valve/housing.

If you're running for 10 minutes on idle and only getting a maximum of 63 degrees I think the thermostat is stuck open. It only needs to be a little bit. Mine was stuck open by 1-2 mm and that was enough for my temps to stay quite low.

I've never seen a sensor installed in the actual hose like that before don't know if it makes a difference or not to the temperature.

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[dom14]

Hi guys I'm not sure that I'm following all this but the water to the gas converter isn't to cool the converter but to heat it up as when the gas changes from liquid to gas (converts) in the converter, it cools and can freeze. Therefore the converter is heated to keep the gas in a vapour.


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When you start the engine the water is pretty cold, so there isn't any heat from water to help the converter but rather the other way around. But, yes even cold water circulating through the LPG converter is better than no water, 'cos the high pressure side of the LPG converter can still absorb some heat from that water, since the LPG(liquid) absorbs whatever the heat it can from the immediate surroundings when it changes to gas state.
Below( as in pictures) happened when I started the engine started burping it.
Obviously the reason for the frost build up on the LPG converter was it wasn't getting any water circulated through it until the air bubbles inside the hoses get burped out. But, it was impressive to notice that, 'cos it didn't happen with this converter before.

[dom14]

If you're running for 10 minutes on idle and only getting a maximum of 63 degrees I think the thermostat is stuck open. It only needs to be a little bit. Mine was stuck open by 1-2 mm and that was enough for my temps to stay quite low.

I've never seen a sensor installed in the actual hose like that before don't know if it makes a difference or not to the temperature.

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It's an easier and quicker way to install the sensor. Yeah, I wouldn't wanna leave it like that permanently. I will get a swagelock and fit it properly by tapping a location on the metal, either on the cylinder head coolant port housing or next to thermostat housing. But, I'm pretty sure the reading is accurate. If I dip the sensor in boiling water, it yields an accurate reading, so it should be the same when I inserted it in the coolant hose.

I'm not too sure whether the thermostat stays stuck open. It came out pretty good with the bench tests I did. Only downside was that i was using a crap thermometer, but I manually adjusted the temperature reading(in my head of course) I read from the gauge, as in below pictures. I know , the 71 degrees still bit lower than what's printed on the thermostat(76 degrees), but I thought I should still get a big higher reading than 68 degrees at the heater core inlet joint or the 63 degrees at the cylinder head coolant port.
So, it appears the stock gauge on the dashboard may be not that bad after all(or the stock sensor).
It may be the thermostat after all.

Approx 71 degrees opening temperature may be enough to keep the engine running "cool" at 68 degrees or so as I saw from the spots I installed the aftermarket sensor so far.

After the last test near the thermostat, I will be pulling the thermostat out and I will replace it with the same type thermostat or one that opens up bit higher. I'm also thinking towing the van to see if the temperature hits the desirable point.(say 80+ degrees).

So, I think you are right. My issue must be in the thermostat. I just need one more temperature test near the thermostat before I pull it out.

[GeeYou8]

Davis Craig sensors for thermo fans tucked the sensor into the hose with a rubber wedge in a similar way, they do make a tapping point that you put into the top hose (great for low coolant sensor).
Graham

[dom14]

70 degrees is as high as it showed with the sensor in the cylinder head coolant port.
That's when I was idling the engine at the supermarket for few seconds.
It runs at 66-68 degrees when I drive.
I will get the final reading from the thermostat housing engine block entry port tomorrow.

[Throbbinhood]

Is the sensor getting enough flow where it is mounted? Mine is just one of those adapters, cut a section of the top hose out, put adapter in, screw the gauge into that.

FWIW. My rb30 takes forever to warm up. Just idling, even for ten minutes, only gets the temp up to 65-70. It did it with two thermostats I've had in it. A 5-10minute drive gets it up to temp pretty quick though, don't rely on just idling it to get it to temp.

Yours would take even longer as it's losing temperature to the gas converter as well.