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Thread: Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

  1. #341
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    OK, headed off on the maiden s/c run for 3 days up the high country. Good news all round, no smoke testing or flames anywhere, nothing failed apart from a temp gauge/sender playing funny buggers. Interchiller system worked well, in all honestly not as spectacular as some of the vid's on youtube, but the results are pleasing. Put 700klm on it as a starter, so decent first run. The prize is lower egt's, so i guess i have succedded but time will tell if the outlay and difficulty has been worth it - unsure just at this moment.

    I am knocking about 60degC out of the inlet air temp to the engine (post s/c at 14psi) as a minimum, at times close to 80degC. EGT's are sitting around 200 Deg C most or the time(even on both banks/probes), have to push really crazy to get 400degC. Boost is running at 14psi with peaks to 17psi when i stomp it. Rad temps are running around the 84degC- 90Deg C and 17Deg c drop across the coil, so that vindicates the bloody expensive ally radiator and high volume water pump. The aux 2200cfm 12V fan works well and drops temps down when crawling along by around 5 degC. Gearbox and transfer case running at 60 degC in all conditions, cruising or in the bush. Cabin a/c temps frosty cold and when I run the bypass a/c circuit to direct 100% cooling to the engine the water temps and inlet air temps fall by about 7 deg, and i can still run the heater in the cabin I found without detriment despite Fi Interchiller claiming otherwise.

    Fuel consumption at 100klm/hr is 22l/hr, (22l/100kilometer). At 110km/hr it pushes up to 28, at 120 up to 35! The 2.8TD engine used to deliver 30L/100klm. so I am still in front and heaps more enjoyment to drive. In the bush its averaging around 10 - 11 based on the numbers i was observing. Super responsive, like driving a petrol V8 auto when cruising, just touch the accel pedal and it takes off, on the flat or uphill, downshifting not required - big improvement on the n/a version.

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  4. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    The 2.8TD engine used to deliver 30L/100klm.
    Bloody hell! The worst the RB ever got was 16-17 l/ 100ks, and that was towing a small camper around Mt Cole.

    I am happy for you, Phil, to see that all your work is paying off!

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    I love the s/c torque much smoother than a turbo. Do you get a nice whine out of it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4sk1n View Post
    I love the s/c torque much smoother than a turbo. Do you get a nice whine out of it?
    Yes the whine and the burble of the exhaust are delicious. The torque, smooth - instant yes, savage yes, smooth not a word I would have chosen, but it is 'there' instantly, but in reality its maybe a second or so in front of a turbo, so not that much difference i reckon. For that second of lead, its a lot more pain and expense, but i love it anyway.

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  9. #345
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    Bought a 12v power steering pump assy with reservoir today. Going to mount it in front pass side - somehow. reason being, after the first ps failure the vehicle is damn near undrivable without the hyd booster, so if it were to crap out up the high country it would be a very dicey trip to get it out. i also have a Proflow vac pump i bought and need to mount that up as well. Young Dan's lockdown will help me again!
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-T...72.m2749.l2649

    Also been looking at the wiring under the dash and will do some more adjustments and swap out the fuse blocks to the LED indicating fuse blocks for easier identification of a blown circuit. Currently have a number of circuits 'doubled up' on the same fuse, which is not good practice, but time and money can resolve this.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-Way-B...72.m2749.l2649

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    Decided to go to the next level with the under dash wiring and dedicate one circuit per fuse - yes I know, thats the way it should be but wasn't, so bought 4 of the 12 slot fuse blocks with LED blown fuse indication, and mount them on a 4mm alum plate. Stripped out the cables and have started to bundle them , more by length than anything and grouping, pos?neg - deep cycle battery supply, and pos/neg ignition supply, then length will determine which block they end up on. All cables are n umbered so I know where they belong to. With luck will get back into this tomorrow.wiring mk2.JPGnew fuse boxes.JPG

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  12. #347
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    Bloody hell mate. I seriously wish you all the best.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #348
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    Thanks, the clarity I had yesterday with this has evaporated today with the back and shoulder pain of twisting under the dash for 7 hrs yesterday - cant motivate myself back under there for another full today just yet! Anyway, the first step cut was done to tidy things up and get back on the road. This next step is to basically resolve the mess and provide easier identification of a failed circuit. Since its now just refinements and i am still not working, time is free to do stuff like this as long as wifey baby remains distracted with her stuff!

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  15. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    OK, headed off on the maiden s/c run for 3 days up the high country. Good news all round, no smoke testing or flames anywhere, nothing failed apart from a temp gauge/sender playing funny buggers. Interchiller system worked well, in all honestly not as spectacular as some of the vid's on youtube, but the results are pleasing. Put 700klm on it as a starter, so decent first run. The prize is lower egt's, so i guess i have succedded but time will tell if the outlay and difficulty has been worth it - unsure just at this moment.

    I am knocking about 60degC out of the inlet air temp to the engine (post s/c at 14psi) as a minimum, at times close to 80degC. EGT's are sitting around 200 Deg C most or the time(even on both banks/probes), have to push really crazy to get 400degC. Boost is running at 14psi with peaks to 17psi when i stomp it. Rad temps are running around the 84degC- 90Deg C and 17Deg c drop across the coil, so that vindicates the bloody expensive ally radiator and high volume water pump. The aux 2200cfm 12V fan works well and drops temps down when crawling along by around 5 degC. Gearbox and transfer case running at 60 degC in all conditions, cruising or in the bush. Cabin a/c temps frosty cold and when I run the bypass a/c circuit to direct 100% cooling to the engine the water temps and inlet air temps fall by about 7 deg, and i can still run the heater in the cabin I found without detriment despite Fi Interchiller claiming otherwise.

    Fuel consumption at 100klm/hr is 22l/hr, (22l/100kilometer). At 110km/hr it pushes up to 28, at 120 up to 35! The 2.8TD engine used to deliver 30L/100klm. so I am still in front and heaps more enjoyment to drive. In the bush its averaging around 10 - 11 based on the numbers i was observing. Super responsive, like driving a petrol V8 auto when cruising, just touch the accel pedal and it takes off, on the flat or uphill, downshifting not required - big improvement on the n/a version.
    Interesting consumption figures,
    What were the engine revs at those speeds?
    If I recall, you are running the 3.9 diffs right?

  16. #350
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    Not entirely sure as was sort of sucking in a lot of info at the one time. I think at 100kph I am doing around the 1900-1950rpm, 110kph sits around 2000 - 2050maybe, not sure on 120kph. When i am next out I will take some better numbers. These are probably worst case in some regards as the sample time is so short. Also, I have a large frontal area with the roofrack that does not help. Yes 33's and 3,9 with man box.

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