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Thread: RB30 Sump Guard.

  1. #11
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    Used and abused my rig in the bush for 3 years now, never had an issue with things hitting the sump. As the diff sits lower, it will cop anything. Only issue would be if a stick or similar gets wedged in between, but in over 11 years of offroading in multiple vehicles, I'm yet to have that happen.

    As for the shaved diffs, it's becoming more commonplace. I believe Bidders in Cranbourne do a good job, around the $700 mark if you just take the empty housings to them.

    I know a couple of people that run shaved housings daily and haven't had any issues, but only had them about a year or two. I'd love to do mine, my 35's would basically be 37's or so, or I could go back to 33's with the clearance of the 35's and not have to worry about the plods. All $$$ though, and the minister of finance isn't keen on me spending any more on it.

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Throbbinhood For This Useful Post:

    dom14 (17th October 2016), mudnut (17th October 2016)

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  4. #12
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    There you go @bigguwesty a good side line for you. Shaved and braced diffs.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  5. #13
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    There you go @bigguwesty a good side line for you. Shaved and braced diffs.
    Where does the Tie rod sit in relation to the pumpkin.
    I think if you shave the diff you'll be exposing the rod to more..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  6. #14
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    As for sump gaurd @mudnut throw us a sump and I'll brace it for you.
    4mm should be enough..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  7. #15
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigguwesty View Post
    Where does the Tie rod sit in relation to the pumpkin.
    I think if you shave the diff you'll be exposing the rod to more..
    I will have a look at the tie rod. Thank you for the offer of welding a plate, but I was thinking of a stand alone guard that used brackets so as not to apply load to the sump.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  8. #16
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    I will have a look at the tie rod. Thank you for the offer of welding a plate, but I was thinking of a stand alone guard that used brackets so as not to apply load to the sump.
    No worries.
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  9. #17
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    Your offer has given me an idea, Kallen. As a simple solution for an interim measure, I think using a pad of thick silicon to glue a plate to the sump could offer some protection.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

  10. #18
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    @bigguwesty this pic shows there is a few inches available on the front diff, after it is shaved and braced, to protect the tie rod.

    I could cut a plate out to give clearance for the drain plug on the sump.
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    Last edited by mudnut; 17th October 2016 at 12:39 PM.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    BigRAWesty (17th October 2016)

  12. #19
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    Your offer has given me an idea, Kallen. As a simple solution for an interim measure, I think using a pad of thick silicon to glue a plate to the sump could offer some protection.
    Not sure it'll hold mate.
    The heat of hot oil and expansion of sump against the cold wind and the heavy plate..
    Not something you want falling off down the highway..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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    mudnut (17th October 2016)

  14. #20
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    @bigguwesty this pic shows there is a few inches available on the front diff, after it is shaved and braced, to protect the the rod.

    I could cut a plate out to give clearance for the drain plug on the sump.
    What's that wonky bar?
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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