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Thread: Old Cylinder Head Removal

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    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Old Cylinder Head Removal

    Guys,

    These are the photos of the cylinder head and engine block, soon after removal of the head.
    Some of the photos and cropped and uploaded to the forum & the other's in the google photos with the links.
    They are uncropped and in it's original high resolution and size.
    For the most part, the failure of the gasket was due to head bolts coming loose. It was too easy to
    undo more than half of the head bolts. I remember re-torquing the head bolts few days later after I replaced the head and the head gasket. But, if I have retorqued the bolts few months later, I could've possibly averted this drama and keep the head and gasket fair bit longer. But, a good lesson learnt to check the torque of the headbolts at least once a year, I reckon.

    I have few questions if you guys can help with some ideas and explanations.

    1)Can you suggest few less harmful ways to remove the soot from the piston crowns (& perhaps wall of the bore)?

    2)I couldn't see a massive buildup of soot(my estimation, which may be incorrect) from what I see on the piston crown and cylinder head. So, how did I produce massive compression(180-190psi) when I did the compression test on all the cylinders last time???!!! Compression tester is accurate. Again, I am not 100% certain there is a need for a thick soot buildup for the compression to shoot up by 20psi or so(normal should be around 170psi, which it was last year).
    Also, considering the head bolts were loose, compression should have been low.

    Thanx
    Attached Images Attached Images
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    Last edited by dom14; 8th October 2017 at 08:13 AM.
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    mudski (8th October 2017)

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    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Any chance you guys can speculate on the reasons for higher compression?

    Compression tester is accurate & I didn't squirt any oil into the combustion chamber.
    I didn't think the carbon build up was bad enough to cause a hike in compression from 170 last year to 190 this year.

    Head bolts were loose.

    Examining head, gasket and block says there is only one spot that was leaking water into the
    combustion chamber from the gasket. That is near the cylinder 6. The rest appear to be ok with
    any water leakage from water passages to the combustion chamber.

    Fire ring of the gasket on the cylinder 1 is broken(severed) unlike the rest of the fire rings.

    Most of the fire rings have bit of rust on them indicating they were loose and compromised.

    Everything points to a lower compression, but I was getting higher compression.

    I feel like I need to understand it before putting everything back together with a reconditioned head and new gasket.

    Any ideas are appreciated.
    Thanx
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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    As a guess, the head repair gunk dissolved over time, and filled the gaps.
    My advice is: not to follow my advice.

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    dom14 (8th October 2017)

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    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    As a guess, the head repair gunk dissolved over time, and filled the gaps.
    The Steel Seal gunk most certainly filled and blocked the water passages on the head surface, and yeah the guess makes sense,
    assuming some of the sodium silicate still circulating around with the coolant. Over the years it has been through several coolant changes. So, I reckon the blockage was from the previous run of sodium silicate. Another issue with the theory is that only one
    combustion chamber was water compromised. The rest appear to be fine, as far as coolant getting into the combustion chambers(see pictures).
    RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
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    Legendary dom14's Avatar
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    @mudski, you know a bit about engines by working at home and selling parts, don't you?
    May I borrow you brain for a microsecond and hear some of your speculations?

    Come on guys, I don't care what kinda wild theories you have.
    There always some good behind all kinda theories.

    I'm calorie starved and my brain only functions at fraction of it's previous capacity.
    So, hearing thoughts from other brains most certainly will give me a boost for regeneration.

    @mb, @MudRunnerTD, @garett, @billyj, @Alitis007, @growler2058, @Kimbo63, @4bye4, @NissanGQ4.2, @PeeBee, @the evil twin,
    (sorry, it I missed any other experts).

    May I hear what your brain tells you? , but please have a quick look at the description and photos.
    Last edited by dom14; 8th October 2017 at 09:22 PM.
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    Sorry DOM, don't have a clue.

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    dom14 (8th October 2017)

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    Me neither, sorry Dom mate.

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    dom14 (8th October 2017)

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    Patrol Freak garett's Avatar
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    did you do one test with the throttle wide open and the other closed?. tester had a bad day ( that time of the month?) liquid in the cylinders. doesn't look like a lot of carbon...
    if its worth doin its worth over doin

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    dom14 (8th October 2017)

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    Expert billyj's Avatar
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    only thought re the high compression is was one a hot reading vs cold? the more important qustion is why did the gasket fail in hte first place, the way the failed fire ring is pushed back looks a little like detonation, how much timing are you running? or are the mixtures lean
    gone to the dark side 2017 vdj 79 dc

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    dom14 (8th October 2017)

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