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6th March 2020, 11:47 AM
#11
Thanks Cuppa. I did take a look at the cpap running specs & it listed the m/c in the 25Ah range, hence the 50Ah battery. The Nocco just illuminates an LED at 100% when it thinks it's completed it's work, so I just go by that.
Thinking about it, you may be right, maybe the cpap m/c is pulling more power than they state.
Might talk to local sparky and see if he has anything to measure power while the device is running.
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6th March 2020 11:47 AM
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6th March 2020, 12:26 PM
#12
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
10G
Thanks Cuppa. I did take a look at the cpap running specs & it listed the m/c in the 25Ah range, hence the 50Ah battery. The Nocco just illuminates an LED at 100% when it thinks it's completed it's work, so I just go by that.
Thinking about it, you may be right, maybe the cpap m/c is pulling more power than they state.
Might talk to local sparky and see if he has anything to measure power while the device is running.
You'll have to take an average, as the power consumption rises & falls with breaths in & out - or at least mine does. You'll need to wear the mask & get it up to pressure, with the humidity turned to what you usually use. (including a heated tube if you use one). I just use the battery monitor I have to see the power consumption in real time. The sparky will probably have a clamp meter he can put arpund one of the battery cables (with everything other than the cpap turned off).It's a quick & essy task so long as the positive & negative can be accessed separately.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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7th March 2020, 12:12 AM
#13
Expert
Originally Posted by
10G
Yow, how long have you been using them mate?
just ticked over 12 months, I have 500w of solar and a cheap 30amp PWM controller keeping them topped up.
Originally Posted by
Mickhead
Sounds like a fair system but a bit low on watt hours and discharge current compared to the itech 120 ah units at around 900?
$900 is a fair price for a 120ah unit, I'd assume it to be of reasonable quality.
I only slapped my system together for a bit of fun, the 2x50's do surprisingly well, I never see them below 26v. If I was to do it again I'd run a 48v system with 6000w inverter, maybe that would run my compressor
Last edited by pollenface; 7th March 2020 at 12:17 AM.
2008 CRD Auto Wagon
Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted
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29th October 2020, 05:39 PM
#14
So I'm looking again at a lithium battery,
Prices have come down a few hundred bucks since the start of the year.
One thing that annoys me is how some brands are labelled as lithium IRON and not lithium ION, it's ION, AFAIK there's no such thing as lithium iron, but there is such a thing as lithium ion.
Maybe this is how we can tell the difference between a genuine well engineered battery and a relabelled chinese second, the 2nds are made with iron!
I thought Renogy were not a bad brand, but they're labelled iron. Might go with a solar king 100Ah or 120Ah, not 100% sure yet??
Last edited by 10G; 29th October 2020 at 05:42 PM.
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29th October 2020, 06:24 PM
#15
SUCH IS LIFE
Have a look at this link, it will describe the difference between both.
Happy reading
https://goenergylink.com/blog/key-di...ron-batteries/
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WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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29th October 2020, 07:45 PM
#16
Originally Posted by
Maxhead
Haven't read it yet, but thanks I will, looking forward to learning something.
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29th October 2020, 08:06 PM
#17
Hardcore
Originally Posted by
Maxhead
Good link, I learnt something new. That’s my quota for the day done.
Cheers
Jack
2012 Simpson 50th Anniversary Edition.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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Maxhead (29th October 2020)
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30th October 2020, 09:58 AM
#18
Same here Jack.
I've got a dumb question. If I have a device that draws that 20Ah and run it for 6 hours off a 120Ah battery, does that mean the battery will be completely flat after 6 hours? Is it that simple?
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30th October 2020, 03:44 PM
#19
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
10G
Same here Jack.
I've got a dumb question. If I have a device that draws that 20Ah and run it for 6 hours off a 120Ah battery, does that mean the battery will be completely flat after 6 hours? Is it that simple?
Assuming a standard Lead Acid tech battery and if the 20Ah device does not have a low voltage cutout...
It will be "completely" flat well before 6 hours due to other losses.
It will be "effectively" flat after about 3 hours
You will risk damage to the device/cable/ after 2 to 3 hours because as the battery supply voltage falls the device will draw more current IE as the battery voltage falls the current draw will increase proportionally (P = E x I ... where P equal power, E equals voltage and I equals current).
or...
if the device is voltage sensitive it will not operate at best efficiency which is equally likely to damage it.
Edit... Devices are rated in Watts not A/H so whilst the above is not exactly technically correct, I left it as is to avoid confusion.
Last edited by the evil twin; 30th October 2020 at 09:49 PM.
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30th October 2020, 06:08 PM
#20
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