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Thread: To chip or not to chip...

  1. #1
    Patrol Freak Mc4by's Avatar
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    To chip or not to chip...

    I have a 2002 GU III ZD30DI.
    I would like opinions on chipping or not chipping this motor.
    I will be towing a light weight camper trailer over a long distance but also over a long time.
    One workshop said yes, it will be great; another said, No, on that motor it will adjust fuel but not air and that will be bad.

    Has / does anyone run this motor with a chip and what do you think?

    As a base line I have full NADS, 3 inch exhaust and the truck runs well.
    Some hills cause me minor grief and that is what I want to eliminate.

    TIA
    As I lay there looking up, taking in the spectacular view that was the night sky and the multitude of stars I asked myself, where did my tent go?

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  3. #2
    The master farter
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    When I had my 2001 3Ltr I ran the DP Chip with no issues. Had the full nads big pipe, modified intake, the lot. I felt the chip only worked when towing, I could not feel any difference when not towing.

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Have you considered an ECU remap (can get postal remap for around $750 + postage)?
    What induction intake sys do you have, all the way thru to turbo inlet?
    What is your max boost and how do you control that?
    Last edited by Bidja; 21st March 2019 at 05:02 PM.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Patrol Freak Mc4by's Avatar
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    Hadn't thought of the ECU map as I thought that would be hard to undo if I wasn't happy with the result.
    I have a safari snorkel installed but standard beyond that.
    Max boost 16 psi, sits on 10 at 100kmh.
    Dawes valve controls the boost.
    As I lay there looking up, taking in the spectacular view that was the night sky and the multitude of stars I asked myself, where did my tent go?

  7. #5
    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mc4by View Post
    Hadn't thought of the ECU map as I thought that would be hard to undo if I wasn't happy with the result.
    I have a safari snorkel installed but standard beyond that.
    Max boost 16 psi, sits on 10 at 100kmh.
    Dawes valve controls the boost.
    Im not sure if you can get a ECU remap on the older Di motors. When I had my Di you couldn't but things might have changed since. An ECU remap is permanent too. With a remap they can get rid of the stupid limp mode crap, then you can load up the boost and have fun. Max boost 16psi is ok but not the best. Mine ran 25 psi max and about 19 at 100k. Which meant the needle valve was pretty much closed right off. For shits and giggles I did run mine at 30 and it went really well but the stock turbos dont like anymore than 25 so I kept it at that.

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    @Mc4by

    You can do remap of ECU for DI. The ECU map can be changed only by that tuner that did the previous remap. The ECU can be set back to the stock baseline set points only by the tuner of current remap and then ECU can be given to an other tuner for a subsequent remap. The current tuner can perform subsequent changes to his previous remap of that ECU.

    There will be a company in WA that do remap (live or postal). I used ECPT (Tuggerah, NSW) Harley Anderson (Technical contact) who has a good reputation and does postal remaps and live tunes. Can send him your ECU for postal remap and ECPT posts it back, maybe 2 wks turnaround time. A remap can turn EGR off to prevent limp and with stock turbo/IP/injectors, his tune provides for max B 20-22psi / AFR 19 - 22:1(depends what your needs are_towing etc).

    https://ecpt.com.au/about-us/


    Question: Your max boost control is Dawes, so do you use needle or use VNT vac solenoid to control spool?
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    My view may go against the tide.

    If you must do this sort of 'tuning' do it well before you head off on the big trip, don't risk new 'issues' when a long way from anywhere.

    Added 'complexity' may make getting mechanical assistance in out of the way places more difficult. KISS is best.

    We live with 'slow' up hills in favour of reliability with our 4.2, in fact we have slowed down quite considerably overall. Commonly sit on 80kph on highways & slower on dirt. It doesn't feel difficult to do, in fact it is both more relaxing & fuel efficient. What's the rush?

    Mostly when away from cities & the east coast the roads are sparsely populated, so holding up traffic is a non issue, & we still have plenty of 'go' when in situations we need it.

    Tassie has a lot of mountains - 2nd gear climbing on highways was common.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    My view may go against the tide.

    If you must do this sort of 'tuning' do it well before you head off on the big trip, don't risk new 'issues' when a long way from anywhere.

    Added 'complexity' may make getting mechanical assistance in out of the way places more difficult. KISS is best.

    We live with 'slow' up hills in favour of reliability with our 4.2, in fact we have slowed down quite considerably overall. Commonly sit on 80kph on highways & slower on dirt. It doesn't feel difficult to do, in fact it is both more relaxing & fuel efficient. What's the rush?

    Mostly when away from cities & the east coast the roads are sparsely populated, so holding up traffic is a non issue, & we still have plenty of 'go' when in situations we need it.

    Tassie has a lot of mountains - 2nd gear climbing on highways was common.
    Its alright for you mate to take your time. Unfortunately most of us holiday on a time line. :0

  14. #9
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Its alright for you mate to take your time. Unfortunately most of us holiday on a time line. :0
    @mudski

    That's true Mark, but the OP is planning long term travel, & will be in a position to take his time.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    @Mc4by

    For your consideration. My eng CRD, I have done progressive eng mods over time - NADS, cooler, intake induction, remaps, high flow turbo (run max B 26psi (rear wheels 136kW/512N-m) have ended up with a good result but fair few $$ spent to get there and lessons learnt. ECO from home (@600m) up to the snowy mtns (1300m), total 450kms: stock 14.5l/100kms and now easy 12 l/100kms - veh 3.5T

    Chip / Remap / or leave as is, up to you. What you have done to date is good.

    Irrespective of what you do longer term, IMO, these ZD30 engines do need to breath well, suggest you look at doing an upgrade to your air intake (induction) first and this may satisfy your need. As stock, the induction is too restrictive and would be even more so if you go with Chip or remap and run at higher boost. This alone will provide improved performance pwr/torque/EGTs. Too much restriction before turbo causes a vacuum and the turbo works harder to overcome this. Solution depends on what you are prepared to spend and it helps if you able to do the work. Possible Option: Use current snorkel with an upgraded airbox and 3" pipe from airbox to turbo with 2.5" flange elbow to turbo compressor housing(easy bolt on).
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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