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Thread: Winch control box wires

  1. #1
    Patrol Freak Mc4by's Avatar
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    Winch control box wires

    Looking for solutions.
    I have started the install of my winch and the control box cables are so short I have no good options for mounting it.
    Where have you mounted your control box?
    How do I extend the cables or do I just replace them with longer ones?

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    Legendary GQtdauto's Avatar
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    Thick cables are better not joined , mine were plenty long enough but I put the control box on top of the winch on an angle, most hide them out of sight which may require using longer wires .

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    The solution I chose was to replace the thin 2 gauge cables with 0 gauge. Some people go to 00 gauge.

    IMG_1582.JPG


    I removed the solenoid and the controller plug from the controller box and mounted the solenoid alongside the battery where it's less impacted by the elements.

    IMG_0566.JPG


    I bought a rocker switch from Jaycar similar to the switch on the controller itself..

    IMG_0585.JPG


    I installed the controller plug and the additional rocker switch within reach under the steering wheel. Added small cutout switches to both to isolate them when not in use.

    IMG_0600.JPG


    I installed a bright LED beside the steering column to warn me if I've left either of them active.

    IMG_0595.JPG
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

  5. The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to jff45 For This Useful Post:

    GQtdauto (6th August 2017), jack (6th August 2017), jay see (6th August 2017), Mc4by (6th August 2017), MudRunnerTD (6th August 2017), mudski (8th August 2017), TPC (6th August 2017)

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    Patrol Freak Mc4by's Avatar
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    JFF45, what a detailed reply, thank you.
    I will take my time and draw out a more comprehensive wiring solution based on your model.
    How hard was it to crimp the 0 cable?\
    I like the idea of running it from inside the cabin.

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mc4by View Post
    JFF45, what a detailed reply, thank you.
    I will take my time and draw out a more comprehensive wiring solution based on your model.
    How hard was it to crimp the 0 cable?\
    I like the idea of running it from inside the cabin.
    You only need to run the large cable to the solenoid which I assume will be under the bonnet. Switching side can be small wires and this will make getting the wires into the cab easy.

    I would suggest going to your local electrical supplier (middys or ideal or another) and ask them to make up your cables so they are crimped professionally if you don't have the right gear. Just mount the winch then figure out how far away your solenoid will be and using a piece of rope run through where you need the cables to go. Probably 4 @ 1m will give you enough options.

    Note that I would recommend 35mm/sq cable or bigger. I run 70 to the highmount
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 6th August 2017 at 10:10 AM.
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    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    You only need to run the large cable to the solenoid which I assume will be under the bonnet. Switching side can be small wires and this will make getting the wires into the cab easy.

    I would suggest going to your local electrical supplier (middys or ideal or another) and ask them to make up your cables so they are crimped professionally if you don't have the right gear. Just mount the winch then figure out how far away your solenoid will be and using a piece of rope run through where you need the cables to go. Probably 4 @ 1m will give you enough options.

    Note that I would recommend 35mm/sq cable or bigger. I run 70 to the highmount
    The suppliers won't crimp the cables, they will have all the pieces to make the cable but won't have the tools. Best to take a 6 pack and the parts to a local sparkie to get the job done.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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    Patrol Freak Mc4by's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    You only need to run the large cable to the solenoid which I assume will be under the bonnet. Switching side can be small wires and this will make getting the wires into the cab easy.

    I would suggest going to your local electrical supplier (middys or ideal or another) and ask them to make up your cables so they are crimped professionally if you don't have the right gear. Just mount the winch then figure out how far away your solenoid will be and using a piece of rope run through where you need the cables to go. Probably 4 @ 1m will give you enough options.

    Note that I would recommend 35mm/sq cable or bigger. I run 70 to the highmount
    Great idea to have them made up. The cost of a big crimper for one job makes it cost effective to just pick them up done.

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mc4by View Post
    JFF45, what a detailed reply, thank you.
    I will take my time and draw out a more comprehensive wiring solution based on your model.
    How hard was it to crimp the 0 cable?\
    I like the idea of running it from inside the cabin.
    I bought a 16 ton hydraulic crimper from eBay. I see the 10 ton versions are now under $40. I don't know if you can get them all crimped for that price. There are at least 7 to do and you need to get them done properly.
    I found Jaycar had the best price for the 50mm connectors.

    Make sure you have the lengths spot on before you get them done.

    The thin wires between the solenoid and the the controller plug in the cab are easy to pass through the firewall.
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Patrol Freak Mc4by's Avatar
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    Cheers JFF, I will look into a crimper at that price.

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Just a tip if you do your own.. When I did the first one, I then soldered (tinned) the opening as a barrier against corrosion but found that the solder had wicked through the crimp. This is to be avoided because it removes the flexibility of the copper cable after the connector and becomes a possible fracture point.
    The solution I found to get a proper gas-tight crimp was to redo the crimp with the 35mm dies after the initial crimping with 50mm.
    I'm not sure the local auto electrician will bother doing that for a $10 6 pack (Disclaimer: I don't drink so I really have no idea what a 6 pack costs)

    This is the result I got before applying the heatshrink..

    Those are 50-8 connectors from Jaycar which don't have the flared entry but that's easy to do with a conical centre punch.

    IMG_0545.JPG
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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