4.2 tdi coolant temp

[Cuppa]

50/50 mix I do on mine.

That's what I run mine at. However when I was having temp gauge problems in Tassie late last year & changed the sender unit, we lost a reasonable amount of coolant & the guy at the radiator place in Burnie topped it back up with water. I asked about this as I wasn't keen to have the coolant over diluted. He tested the coolant with a litmus (or similar) strip & showed me that the coolant was 'strong' enough to do the job. He told me that higher ratios than about 30% didn't give any extra benefit.

That said I'll probably stick with 50% just so if I do end up having to drop some coolant, or get a leak out in Woop Woop I can top it back up with water & have a reasonable chance of still having sufficient coolant strength.

[Bushy674]

Interesting topic, I have a much earlier GU TD42T and bought it with a very understated over heating issue, I have since gotten a bigger radiator and returned to the GQ fan and hub as the fan pulls a lot more air, some bloke did a comparison with an air flow meter. The interesting thing I have to add is I have an aftermarket gauge with the sender mounted very close to the original and while my factory gauge in hot weather with a trailer going up hills will read 3/4 plus my aftermarket gauge has never gone above 96c, do you know the temp/ gauge comparison for a factory gauge?

[MB]

FWIW, have foolishly overloaded and sometimes emergency necessity loaded stock TD42T (no IC’s) to boil and beyond. IIRC the stock circa 2001ish guages were a poofteenth off boiling before leaving 3/4 on the gauge.
Friggin tough motor they are and kept hauling back water for us off their stock dials throughout bad Vic Saturdays then :-(


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[dpetersen]

Update
Changed the radiator cap, pressure tank cap, thermostat and coolant today.
Drove it for about 15mins at 110kph, temps still got up to 102. Let it idle for about five mins and it only dropped to 97*.
I am thinking the radiator is on it’s way out.
What do you guys think?

[the evil twin]

I would get the Rad professionally serviced (rodded etc).
Sounds to me like there is definitely insufficient 'exchange' of heat happening.

What sort of nick is the water pump in?
Get that checked with the Rad maybe

[dpetersen]

Not sure on the condition of the water pump, how would I check it,
What’s it worth to get a rad “rodded”?
Just trying to find prices on a new genuine one and it looks like they are around the $800 mark.

[drgtr]

Not sure on the condition of the water pump, how would I check it,
What’s it worth to get a rad “rodded”?
Just trying to find prices on a new genuine one and it looks like they are around the $800 mark.

Radiator cap open and watch coolant move when Thermostat is opened

Rodding is quite cheap. Take the radiator out yourself.
They will open both end tanks and rod clean out the tubes.
Just make sure they seal end tanks properly and pressure test in front of your eyes.

Alot of people think drop and draining coolant is sufficient for a radiator. Rodding is the way to go

I seen anywhere from $60 dollars to $120 dollars

[dpetersen]

Cool sounds like the way to go.
Will have to check if anywhere in Alice Springs does it. I don’t even think we have a radiator place any more.

[dpetersen]

Spoke with the radiator bloke today.
$250-$300 to rod the old one if I pull it out.
$380 for a new adrad radiator. Might as well put a new one in it, just have to confirm the size. Does anyone have the size on them?
It’s a 2006 GU iv 4.2

[drgtr]

Measurements are in this ebay ad.

Shouldnt he know if he sells radiators?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Radiator...8AAOSwqXZZxbvW