Bleeding td42 after injector rail replacement

[GQtdauto]

Must be the maverick thing not a lot of help for some reason , I've had a squiz around and found this for you but because of the fact it wasn't running right to begin with it might pay you to check the fuel lines from back to front for kinks or damage
Check your fuel filter and O rings for it then bleed the filter .
The below instructions were lifted from elsewhere I've just deleted the bits about the usual bleed for the filter and pumping because yours is different .
This guy suggested bleeding the top of the pump first ( bleedscrew) but you've already done that so if your filter and filter seals are ok try it as below .





If the engine cranks for a while (10 seconds or so) and doesn't sound like starting, give it a second go before moving on to bleeding the injectors. DO NOT bleed the line at the top of the injector pump again, move DIRECTLY to the large union nuts on the top of each injector! Loosen them all approximately two turns using two spanners, one holding the injector and one on the pipe union to avoid damaging the return lines or the injectors. Then have an assistant to crank the engine for 5-7 second intervals with a similar 'cool down' between each cranking session! Tighten each pipe as bubble free fuel begins to flow from the loosened injector unions. If the engine begins to run, just let it continue to idle as you tighten the remaining loose union nuts.

If the union nuts on top of the injector do NOT leak, THEN you can try bleeding the injector pump at the inlet hose once more, making sure that you pump until bubble free fuel is bleeding from the nut before tightening it up again. If you do not get fuel from the injectors and then still do not get fuel from the injector pump inlet hose, there is a problem with either the injector pump itself, the fuel cut solenoid, or the mechanical system.

If you have been running for a while on contaminated fuel, there is a possibility that the engine would previously run at above idle revs but not start easily or continue to run at idle. This can mean that the engine may start after prolonged cranking, but stop again as soon as the revs are let drop down to idle. This is as a result of the injector pump being damaged sufficiently that it will not pump sufficient fuel to keep the engine running at low revs, and it is this sort of problem that can result in the lack of fuel at the injector pump mentioned above, altho if you can spin it up fast enough, it will pump sufficient fuel at higher revs!

Even tho you might find that you cannot get fuel from the pump as mentioned above, if you are in a remote area and you are aware that you may have been running on contaminated fuel, then it is worth an attempt at starting with prolonged cranking, or even a tow start. DO NOT do this or try this if you are within reasonable distance or time of a repair facility, it is only a 'last resort' attempt and it may well damage the pump beyond easy repair! However, if you can get it started you may be able to run the engine so that you can drive for some time/distance by keeping the revs at fast idle or above! Keep this in mind for that really bad day that hopefully will never occur for you!

Good Luck!

[my93maverick]

Also check your fuel filter to make sure it's good , it's full of fuel and not leaking .

Yeah i might pop down repco tomorrow grab a new filter, it really does have me stumped am i going to do any real long term engine damage trying to turn it over and missing?

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[GQtdauto]

Battery is your main problem mate , so as it says give it a rest inbetween but otherwise shouldn't affect the donk .
When using that priming pump it should get harder to pump as the system is bled out .

[my93maverick]

Must be the maverick thing not a lot of help for some reason , I've had a squiz around and found this for you but because of the fact it wasn't running right to begin with it might pay you to check the fuel lines from back to front for kinks or damage
Check your fuel filter and O rings for it then bleed the filter .
The below instructions were lifted from elsewhere I've just deleted the bits about the usual bleed for the filter and pumping because yours is different .
This guy suggested bleeding the top of the pump first ( bleedscrew) but you've already done that so if your filter and filter seals are ok try it as below .





If the engine cranks for a while (10 seconds or so) and doesn't sound like starting, give it a second go before moving on to bleeding the injectors. DO NOT bleed the line at the top of the injector pump again, move DIRECTLY to the large union nuts on the top of each injector! Loosen them all approximately two turns using two spanners, one holding the injector and one on the pipe union to avoid damaging the return lines or the injectors. Then have an assistant to crank the engine for 5-7 second intervals with a similar 'cool down' between each cranking session! Tighten each pipe as bubble free fuel begins to flow from the loosened injector unions. If the engine begins to run, just let it continue to idle as you tighten the remaining loose union nuts.

If the union nuts on top of the injector do NOT leak, THEN you can try bleeding the injector pump at the inlet hose once more, making sure that you pump until bubble free fuel is bleeding from the nut before tightening it up again. If you do not get fuel from the injectors and then still do not get fuel from the injector pump inlet hose, there is a problem with either the injector pump itself, the fuel cut solenoid, or the mechanical system.

If you have been running for a while on contaminated fuel, there is a possibility that the engine would previously run at above idle revs but not start easily or continue to run at idle. This can mean that the engine may start after prolonged cranking, but stop again as soon as the revs are let drop down to idle. This is as a result of the injector pump being damaged sufficiently that it will not pump sufficient fuel to keep the engine running at low revs, and it is this sort of problem that can result in the lack of fuel at the injector pump mentioned above, altho if you can spin it up fast enough, it will pump sufficient fuel at higher revs!

Even tho you might find that you cannot get fuel from the pump as mentioned above, if you are in a remote area and you are aware that you may have been running on contaminated fuel, then it is worth an attempt at starting with prolonged cranking, or even a tow start. DO NOT do this or try this if you are within reasonable distance or time of a repair facility, it is only a 'last resort' attempt and it may well damage the pump beyond easy repair! However, if you can get it started you may be able to run the engine so that you can drive for some time/distance by keeping the revs at fast idle or above! Keep this in mind for that really bad day that hopefully will never occur for you!

Good Luck!

Thanks heaps mate thats a very heplful guide i will give it a crack tomorrow after work

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[my93maverick]

So a little off topic now i take it some ppl on here are a little biased towards the old mavericks correct me of im wrong?

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[my93maverick]

I'm wishing one our diesel gurus would show up about now , the 2" lift in itself shouldn't normally affect anything to do with the fuel system unless you've inadvertently somehow pinched the fuel line , just looking at your photo that red hose going to the filter is fuel hose isn't it ? And the black hose on the other side appears to be somewhat kinked .
You are using the glow plugs ? The glowplugs are connected and working ? Glowplugs not working or not working properly will make it a bitch to start and could make it a bit lumpy to start with but won't affect the running after that .
I'm almost tempted to get you to spray a bit of start you barstard into the air cleaner to see what happens .

Lol yeah i try to avoid the old start ya bastard, yeah im not real fond of the black hose on the filter would definitely be restricting it but its been that way since iv owned it for the last 3 years, glow plugs work fine before this so should still be ok ill get a mate around tomorrow to help crank it over while i crack the injector line one by one got the batt on charge now.

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[GQtdauto]

Used to own one but a petrol variant , look I'm stunned by the response you're getting everyone is usually very helpful , it's not as if you're a new member and didn't do an intro so I really don't know .
Sometimes if there's no one around that knows the others might not want to say anything in case it's wrong and with your problem it has a lot of it could be this or it could be that .
Yes it was playing up a bit before but you had a likely culprit if you had a leak in that line , just a matter of problem solving by going back to the start of the system and working forward .
Hope you kept the area clean so you didn't get any crud into the injector by the way , one last thing is on some injector pumps just below the banjo bolt for the fuel inlet there is a thimble like mesh strainer which can become blocked , most pull them out and throw them away but the experts say they should be there as a last line of defence to stop dirt getting in your injectors .
We only hate Toyotas really a maverick is just a rebadged Nissan .

[my93maverick]

Used to own one but a petrol variant , look I'm stunned by the response you're getting everyone is usually very helpful , it's not as if you're a new member and didn't do an intro so I really don't know .
Sometimes if there's no one around that knows the others might not want to say anything in case it's wrong and with your problem it has a lot of it could be this or it could be that .
Yes it was playing up a bit before but you had a likely culprit if you had a leak in that line , just a matter of problem solving by going back to the start of the system and working forward .
Hope you kept the area clean so you didn't get any crud into the injector by the way , one last thing is on some injector pumps just below the banjo bolt for the fuel inlet there is a thimble like mesh strainer which can become blocked , most pull them out and throw them away but the experts say they should be there as a last line of defence to stop dirt getting in your injectors .
We only hate Toyotas really a maverick is just a rebadged Nissan .

Lol well thanks for the tips anyways mate i do appreciate it but you're right im just gunna have to go front to back on this one bloody real pain in the ass though nothing worse when something seems so simple but puts up a fight the whole way

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[GQtdauto]

Yeah I think it's possible you have multiple niggly problems that are just compounding .

[mudski]

So a little off topic now i take it some ppl on here are a little biased towards the old mavericks correct me of im wrong?

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I wouldn't think so. Its just a Patrol in a nighty! Lol.
Anyways GQtdauto has been outstanding with advise. I cant really input much here as everything I thought of has been said. I'd just double check the glow plugs and make sure they are powering up. Just to take this out of the equation. Then try the bleeding process GQtd had posted. And I'd be tempted to put a CAV setup with built in primer in replace of the filter you have. Or even move the filter to the rhs of the motor like the GU's, and get an OEM filter setup. Then you know this part is right.