Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

Personally reckon your good self and the family will soon fall truly back in love with that ripper (best ever seen & thankfully once driven) GU Beaut Wagon Truckster Mr Mark
Bottom to Top:
# Them Green belts are the toughest I’ve ever known
# That high flow TD42 water pump about to be replaced are advertised I believe by the manufacturer for lower rpm crawling type torque only top needs
# Fans, judging by what our nearest and dearest mates in person are finding sounds like a winner too


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Yeah after speaking to a few mechanics that do a lot of TD’s including the chap who rebuilt the injectors a hi flow water pump isn’t ideal, pushing the water too fast through the radiator before it’s had time to cool is not the best scenario. So we’ll try a stockie.
I know doing one thing at a time is the best way but I bit over it and just want it done. So if everything I do from here works, great.


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[MB]

You’re on a winning streak now Brother, go full Tilt


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[mudski]

Hopefully you get the results your chasing.

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It’s surely gotta be better than what I’m currently seeing.
It’s funny, we’ll sort of. Talking to the fella who did my injectors today about all the things I’ve done and doing and he’s like, I’ve got a 180rwkw TD and mine doesn’t have any mods and never gets hot, you don’t need to do anything...
I then say to him, you’ve never had cooling issues yourself on your own TD, that just won’t go away, so you automatically think all this is unnecessary. You yourself know the motor in your Patrol,and how the cooling system reacts to anything. So when it changes you know somethings up. This is where I am at.
Good learning curve though. I can remove the radiator and engine fan assy with my eyes shut now I’ve done it that many times. Haha.

Just looking forward John to getting away again mate with you and the others for a smashing weekend away in the bush.


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[PeeBee]

Yeah after speaking to a few mechanics that do a lot of TD’s including the chap who rebuilt the injectors a hi flow water pump isn’t ideal, pushing the water too fast through the radiator before it’s had time to cool is not the best scenario. So we’ll try a stockie.
I know doing one thing at a time is the best way but I bit over it and just want it done. So if everything I do from here works, great.


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Mark, I have a started a bit of a deep dive into this with my barge and the general impression is that its going to add more frustration to my life. The flow rates of pumps and radiator core sizes, thermostats have all gone thru tens of thousands of hours at the manufacturers prior to release, Unfortunately they dont take into account what the recreational enthusiast can do with their product, and there in lies one issue - the end user is probably operating the vehicle beyond their design team brief. For this Chev conversion there is no science behind any of the supplied solution by the conversion agents as the parent vehicles these engines normally reside in have much larger radiator cores compared to the little GQ. I know this is technically different for your 4.2 'kettle', just saying.

The second issue I see in particular with the water flowrate, thermostat and radiator core design again leaves me with the feeling i am going to chase shadows. For the 4.2 TD, we would all hope the design engineers have sorted out the heat transfer 'planes' from block to water gallery' and the radiator core to radiator area, coupled with the pump flowrate and coupled with fan design. As mentioned firstly, there is going to be a relatively small area of the nomagraph where the engine will run just beautifully, and a lot of it is controlled by the $2 spring loaded plunger in the t/s housing. If the water moves too slowly it will boil in the block, generating air pockets which are insulation zones. If it moves too fast, as you correctly say, there is insufficient time for the heat to be shed across the radiator boundary.
I have spoken at length with the engineer at Dayco about options and its limited to the flange diameter and depth avail in the thermostat housing, with the high flow t/s being designed to open as wide as the assy structural integrity will allow. I am also in discussions with a design engineer at Tridon, and still waiting for the simplest answer to the question - "what is the tridon TT2000-160 T/s rated at flow wise, GPM/LPM?" - nothing heard - except the answer I have back from them is this is the only t/s that will fit the housing I have, and even with two t/s's flow seems insufficient. What I want to confirm is the flow rate limitation of the t/s before taking the next move. ie, can two TT2000's allow 130GPM of flow? - this is the volumetric capacity of the pump, however I don't know at what revs - which is another rabbit hole. There is a 'sweet spot' spoken about in a few articles i have read, however the operating parameters and variables really put this info into the test lab domain from what I think.

I guess we will collectively scratch around and might get lucky with a solution, but for me its going to really be left to me to control the loud pedal under the range of terrains and driving demands i think. Best of luck to all moving forward!!

[MB]

Short & Sweet PeeBee Mate :-)
For your/my 6.5 toys stick with OEM 88C Chevrolet/ACDelco Proven Twin Thermostats ‘Bog Stock’ the rest is up to you and our modification threads Legend :-)


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[PeeBee]

Short & Sweet PeeBee Mate :-)
For your/my 6.5 toys stick with OEM 88C Chevrolet/ACDelco Proven Twin Thermostats ‘Bog Stock’ the rest is up to you and our modification threads Legend :-)


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Yeah, time will tell. I am still of the opinion that the 160 TS is fine as the engine is going to get to temperature and run hot anyway, and the 160 just gets a bit ahead of the game. I have done about as much as i can on mine to reduce temps with water sprays, water injection, interchiller, alum radiator, full radiator exposure to air, big water pump, duramax fan, 2500cfm electric and big mouth bonnet scoop for the slow stuff. The last question in my mind is the choke point of the T/S. Will let you know of course if I make any headway.

[mudski]

I guess we will collectively scratch around and might get lucky with a solution, but for me its going to really be left to me to control the loud pedal under the range of terrains and driving demands i think. Best of luck to all moving forward!!

More than likely for the both of us Phil. Good learning experience too while we are at it though.

On a side note. I am wondering if I may have silicate gel build up in the cooling system possibly blocking galleries, due the to the engine coolant being changed maybe 8-10 time in the last few years due to the this stupid leaking water rail. Once everything is back on I will attempt to open the water port on the side of the block to flush it drain the block out, and then use some Fleetguard Restore cleaner to remove any gel build up. If there is any. I couldn't see any when I dropped the coolant from the radiator into a bucket though, it was like new the coolant. Surely if there was gel build up I would see it in the radiator aswell....

[mudski]

Short & Sweet PeeBee Mate :-)
For your/my 6.5 toys stick with OEM 88C Chevrolet/ACDelco Proven Twin Thermostats ‘Bog Stock’ the rest is up to you and our modification threads Legend :-)


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Our Patrol lives would be boring if we weren't doing all these mods and chasing gremlins all the time right? Right?....

[Tip12345]

Yes I am a bit over mine . I am still hoping mine is just the dash gauge .
Viscus fan will get done this weekend . Have a new waterpump. in stock .
Just am not happy trying to workout what to expect . If I pull up to take a phone call. the gauge goes mad up to full noise !!!
I then get under the bonnet and shoot some temperatures its all under 90C . bottom of the radiator is barely warm .

[MudRunnerTD]

Yes I am a bit over mine . I am still hoping mine is just the dash gauge .
Viscus fan will get done this weekend . Have a new waterpump. in stock .
Just am not happy trying to workout what to expect . If I pull up to take a phone call. the gauge goes mad up to full noise !!!
I then get under the bonnet and shoot some temperatures its all under 90C . bottom of the radiator is barely warm .

That is exactly what mine was doing. was killing me. I swapped out the Senders twice and determined it to be in the loom and have simply decommissioned it in favour of a digital Redarc gauge with the sender in the factory location. t would be nice to maintain function of the factory gauge but i was not prepared to invest in hours of Auto Elect time to chase a loom fault. f you find your problem please post the results and it might inspire me to go looking for mine.