2012 GU boost controller?

[nipagu7]

pictures would help , but it maybe that the way you have it plumbed up that you are drawing too much air from the air box ( vaccum from airbox via boost solenoid but with the solenoid bypassed ) a needle valve ( spool control ), should basically replace the solenoid . leave the solenoid in position but block air ports ( the wires need to be connected or it will throw codes ).

[Coldcomfort]

The solenoid is still plugged in (electrically) but the vacuum ports play no part in the system. All 3 tubes are removed. I'm not sure how blocking the air ports would make any difference??

[Bidja]

The solenoid is still plugged in (electrically) but the vacuum ports play no part in the system. All 3 tubes are removed. I'm not sure how blocking the air ports would make any difference??

Block them to keep dirt out so vacsol internal stays clean (just incase u may want to use one day).

Your GFB V2 Boost Controller is nothing but a spool rate adjust needle valve plus a boost limiter in a single body assy.

Not used one of these units but suggest you first adjust the rise rate screw (turn it clockwise) to obtain max spool and then only adjust the Boost Rate screw (guess turn it clockwise) to obtain max target boost (say 15-16 psi). If you cannot achieve at least this max boost some thing else is going on.
Try adjusting for the 15-16psi and if no good come back let us know and we can go from there.

If u obtain target boost then slow the spool rate to suit.

As @nipagu7 mentioned post up a pic or diagram of setup.

[Coldcomfort]

I'll try and get some pics up soon. On night shift for the next couple of nights then a few days off.

[Bidja]

Suggest also recheck the boost hoses / clamps from turbo to inlet manifold throttle body.

[Coldcomfort]

So, after much stuffing around I have gone back to e separate dawes valve (DV) and dawes needle valve (DNV) . There was no way that the GFB unit was going to work. The dawes set up works fine its only the extra tubing that the installation involves that i was trying to eliminate. One thing about the GFB unit that concerned me was that when I used my lungs to blow into it and turn the adjustment the boost rise never actually turned off. The air would be diverted and come out the boost ports? Weird. I thought that they were two separate valves. Perhaps not.

[mudski]

So, after much stuffing around I have gone back to e separate dawes valve (DV) and dawes needle valve (DNV) . There was no way that the GFB unit was going to work. The dawes set up works fine its only the extra tubing that the installation involves that i was trying to eliminate. One thing about the GFB unit that concerned me was that when I used my lungs to blow into it and turn the adjustment the boost rise never actually turned off. The air would be diverted and come out the boost ports? Weird. I thought that they were two separate valves. Perhaps not.

Sounds to me you have been sent the wrong valve.

A snip from their website...
Our Manual Boost Controllers are available in two types, one is suited for conventional pneumatic wastegates, and the other is for use with vacuum-actuated VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbine)/VGT (Variable Geometry Turbine) turbos that are commonly used on diesel engines.

I would say the valve you have is to suit a waste gated turbo. Not a VV Turbo.

[Coldcomfort]

I bought part number 3009. Thats the part number of their VNT controller according to their web site. Perhaps they sent the wrong one.

[mudski]

I bought part number 3009. Thats the part number of their VNT controller according to their web site. Perhaps they sent the wrong one.

Thats my point. Id contact them and ask them how to ID the differences between the two because of your suspicions.

[phdv61]

Block them to keep dirt out so vacsol internal stays clean (just incase u may want to use one day).

Your GFB V2 Boost Controller is nothing but a spool rate adjust needle valve plus a boost limiter in a single body assy.

Not used one of these units but suggest you first adjust the rise rate screw (turn it clockwise) to obtain max spool and then only adjust the Boost Rate screw (guess turn it clockwise) to obtain max target boost (say 15-16 psi). If you cannot achieve at least this max boost some thing else is going on.
Try adjusting for the 15-16psi and if no good come back let us know and we can go from there.

If u obtain target boost then slow the spool rate to suit.

As @nipagu7 mentioned post up a pic or diagram of setup.

I hardly ever come on this site these days, John.

For what I understand, this boost controller is equivalent to what I described elsewhere as a "two needles arrangement".
One being connected to fresh ambiant air, the other to the boost line.
Both of them inject flow in the vacuum line controlling the actuator, and the one connected to the boost line is the one providing a continuous opening of vanes with boost rise. It means that, like any valve arrangement, it will never keep the vanes mid-open, in the best turbo efficiency zone. But this is another story.

As for the setting, one go with the other since, as soon as you open the "boost valve", you also modify the spool-up ( the closed position of the vanes since "boost flow" is injected in the vacuum line even when idle. . So the more you open the boost valve to control max boost, the more you need to close the spool-up valve to compensate for the flow injected by the boost valve. I hope I am clear enough and will be understood.

This continuous opening is much better than a dawes+needle arrangement in that it opens the vanes when the dawes would keep them closed most of the time, which is the worst you may think of for a VNT. But far from the optimum still, as you know.

With valves, the best outcome you can achieve is when making use of one dawes and TWO needles, with the dawes opening early (5-6psi max), and a second needle in "serie" with the dawes to control vanes opening with boost rise (the other needle allowing initial spool-up setting - or max vanes closure).

As soon as the turbo spins fast enough, it makes no sense to keep its vanes closed as all what you do is spending energy fighting against back pressure. Hence a bad eco and un-necessary mechanical stress for your turbo, exhaust manifold... etc.
Notwithstanding the heat carried by compressed air...

What matters is not "boost", but the REAL quantity of air swallowed by your cylinders as indicated by your MAF voltage. the unique - true- "judge of piece" in this domain. In other terms, someone running 25 psi at 2400RPM and 3.8Volts of MAF will always be overtaken by someone having 4.1Volts of MAF and 17psi at the same 2400RPM...

More air in the cylinders allows more fuel to be injected by the IP and more Torque/Power.
Boost is a measure of pressure, not a measure of a quantity of air.

rgds all.