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Hey Darren, I dont understand this. I would have thought higher boost would add more air, better combustion of the given fuel, which generates more energy and thus more heat - much like less air, lower combustion potential, lower energy, less heat? What am I getting cocked up?
Not sure to be honest. Definitely turning Up the Boost will drop the EGTs. Complete burn, efficiency, more air. No Bog.
100% I uave played with the GU a fair bit and turning Up thr boost allowed everything to work more efficiently and dropped the EGTs
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Well then I go back to my original suggestion and ditch the factory boost control setup for a manual control setup. Factory is absolute garbage. Being 2001 your should have the vacuum canister thats mounted to the top of the motor next to the intercooler. If you do. Piss that off, Nissan realised it did nothing but only leak vacuum so they canned it in 2002.
But now I'm getting max 8psi boost and then cuts out after cruising at 100 for about 5 seconds and just sits at 0 before I take my foot of then back on and we repeat the process and the egts head north of 600 degrees.
Mods. egr blocked with 8mm hole, 3" exhaust, catch can, aftermarket intercooler, 33" tyres
Sounds like hard Limp to me.
Noted you blocked EGR when and maybe this cause the issue?
Why use blocking plate withe a hole _ defeats the purpose. Plate/EGR block may be impacting MAF volts signal to ECU. Remap is the best option (turn EGR function off).
Normal accepted practice with EGR block is to install manual boost control to eliminate spiking.
Concerned with 60-70kPa (18-20"Hg) vac at actuator to lift rod (lever to vane limit stop) can cause it to be very laggy (normall 13-14 "Hg).
Has the actuator rod length been changed?
Does the paint marks across actuator arm frame and adjuster thumb wheel line up?
If you wish to continue with VNT Vacsol / ECU control check that it is connected right. The sketch is a guide and the damper can also be fitted between vacsol and turbo actuator diaphragm.
Blocking EGR and adding a 3" exhaust is the perfect recipee to get limp, in that it reduces back pressure (3" exhaust) and increase MAF voltage ( both EGR blocked and 3" exhaust do that).
MAF voltage exceeding for more than a few seconds the following voltage values before a high enough RPM value is reached, generates limp ( fuel is cut by the ECM) :
3.55V before 2000RPM
3.90V before 2500RPM
4.00V before 3000RPM
4.15V before 3500RPM.
As @Bidja mentioned : you can go for a remap to suppress Limp, or, you can add a needle and reduce the initial spool-up (which is equivalent to screw down the lever limiting screw).
As soon as you modify your Patrol, your ECU gets "lost", and the way it manages the turbo vanes is no longer adapted. No surprise here.
Originally Posted by PeeBee
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
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