Belt Tensioner Assembly (CRD)

[TPC]

Have got a spare belt id try that first if not it will be the alternator

New belt too? Or just the tensioner?

I did not replace the belt as this was replaced recently with a genuine one and it looks new still.

[Sir Roofy]

I did not replace the belt as this was replaced recently with a genuine one and it looks new still.

Id try another another one first

[mudski]

Take the belt off and spin the a/c idler pulley and also the alternator pulley. They should spin nice. My guess the a/c pulley will be a bit on the rough side, they always are.

[jay see]

Take the belt off and spin the a/c idler pulley and also the alternator pulley. They should spin nice. My guess the a/c pulley will be a bit on the rough side, they always are.

My a/c one sh!t itself. Easy enough to just replace the bearing, if that's the problem.

Sent from my XT1033

[BigRAWesty]

My a/c one sh!t itself. Easy enough to just replace the bearing, if that's the problem.

Sent from my XT1033

How hard of a job?? I've read they can be a biatch..

[jay see]

I found a write-up somewhere, I dig it up later tonight when I'm on the computer

Not hard at all.

Sent from my XT1033

[jay see]

@bigguwesty This is taken form the other patrol forum.Pretty much the way I did mine. I had it apart to replace the timing case seal at the same time.

1- remove belt
2- remove radiator shroud
3- buy three 5x35mm cap head screws from bunnings or hardware shop to use as jacking screws to remove coverplate. screw jacking screws in a short way then with a screw driver between screws to stop pully turning undo the pully retaining bolt(13 or 14 mm socket) then screw jacking bolts in evenly until its off.
4-with a 3 legged bearing puller remove pully
5- remove bearing

Job is easy, be very careful there is three small shims/washers behind the pulley retaining bolt. Don't loose those.
Bearings are cheap and readily available at bearing supply shops
Good luck

I do recall there is a circlip that needs to be removed as well.
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[BigRAWesty]

@bigguwesty This is taken form the other patrol forum.Pretty much the way I did mine. I had it apart to replace the timing case seal at the same time.

1- remove belt
2- remove radiator shroud
3- buy three 5x35mm cap head screws from bunnings or hardware shop to use as jacking screws to remove coverplate. screw jacking screws in a short way then with a screw driver between screws to stop pully turning undo the pully retaining bolt(13 or 14 mm socket) then screw jacking bolts in evenly until its off.
4-with a 3 legged bearing puller remove pully
5- remove bearing

Job is easy, be very careful there is three small shims/washers behind the pulley retaining bolt. Don't loose those.
Bearings are cheap and readily available at bearing supply shops
Good luck

I do recall there is a circlip that needs to be removed as well.
__________________

Sweet.. I might do both for good measure..

[mudski]

From memory when doing my a/c the bearing wasn't real cheap. It was around 30odd dollars. But not too dear at the same time. If the bearing has never been changed before there will be like folded tabs over the bearing from the pulley. The pulley also flexes too when removing and refitting the bearing. So make sure when it flexes the centre of the pulley is in the same positionas it was when it came off the compressor.
If it doesn't, the pulley will be out of alignment with all the other pulleys.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

[Rossko07]

Does anyone else feel that the torque setting for the tensioner BRACKET ie the large pivot bolt on the bracket, is set too tight?

I am worried about it seizing but don't want the bolt to come out either if it's too loose.