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Thread: Td42 billet crank

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    Td42 billet crank

    Hey guys and girls

    I’m looking at putting a billet crank in a healthy 280k factory turbo TD42.

    I REALLY want to refrain from completely rebuilding it at this stage! It’s more preventative maintenance..if you could call it that

    My question is, Can I safely just flip it over on a stand, remove rod caps, main caps, put new STD acl race bearings in the rods and mains, new crank, plastigauge and re assemble?

    Thanks!

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  3. #2
    The master farter
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    Spending that kind of money on a crank shaft for a factory turbo TD will be a waste of time mate. Only needed for big horse power/ drive like they stole it owners. Plenty big HP TD's here mate with stock cranks. But to answer your question, If your replacing all the bearings I cannot see why you can't. Providing there is no damage to the bearing journals.

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    Advanced Seluntiy's Avatar
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    If all the crankshaft necks are intact and wear-free, then you can only replace the liners. I did so on my TD42T.

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    I would think that an engine that needs a billet crankshaft also needs good head studs
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    I think the intent was getting some greater feeling of reliability rather than hunting big HP - thats the way i read it anyway.

    Out of curiosity, would it be at all possible to install stud bolts one at a time without taking the head off? ie take out a head bolt, screw and torque a stud bolt into the block and then torque the nut down, move onto the next sequential bolt? Might be unconventional, just wondering if there would be any noticeable issue doing this - ie saving the head removal process? Engine builders, what do you think, regardless of convention?

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    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    If you replace the crank and bearings, won't the rings smash into the step at the end of their wear pattern?

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    Patrol Guru 0-TJ-0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    If you replace the crank and bearings, won't the rings smash into the step at the end of their wear pattern?
    I don't know what "should" be done but I had an old Landcruiser that had all the bottom end bearings done leaving the rest of the engine alone. Got it off the guy I used to work for like that, never had any issues.

    I think perhaps tolerances would be tighter on new materials would actually end up making the rings stop slightly shorter than with "worn" parts.

    Dunno. Not a mechanic haha.
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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    mudnut (5th November 2020)

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    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    I think the intent was getting some greater feeling of reliability rather than hunting big HP - thats the way i read it anyway.
    There would be better, and cheaper ways to get a greater feeling of reliability in a TD I would think. But I've spent probably the same amount as a Billet crank on my TD just trying to keep it cool and I still haven't achieved that so...

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    PeeBee (6th November 2020)

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    ......... MB's Avatar
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    I’m certainly no mechanic either Zac Mate but the only internally failed TD42 & TD42T donks I’ve personally seen the aftermath for were both 200rwkw+ turbo’d up beasts and both were Conrod Bannana bent/broken out the sides of the blocks. There is some Legend’s info on here somewhere of later model TD42Ti donks may have stronger/larger/thicker all round internals I believe? Much better suited for pimping up a wee bit hopefully


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    mudski (7th November 2020)

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