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Thread: Deisel Smart EGR Delete

  1. #11
    Patrol God Dhuck's Avatar
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    Thanks for that info @Bidja. Will look him up and have a chat.
    In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".

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    Bidja (30th September 2020)

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  4. #12
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Do you have any gauges installed as good to monitor changes as mods come into play.

    Is eng stock, any mods to date?

    In addition to blocking EGR, as mentioned you can disable the swirl valve (2nd throttle plate/butterfly) _is located driver side of engine towards firewall . To disable the swirl control solenoid, unplug it and insert the resistor in plug and tape up/zip tie back away (typical pic).
    I prefer to do this by unplugging and do the swirl valve plug resistor mod (330ohm) than turn off with ECU remap (keep options open). Jaycar sell a 2 pack of resistors. 330ohm 1 watt resistor. Jaycar part number RR2762.

    When swirl valve is disabled swirl throttle plate (butterfly) stays open all the time and provides for more air at low revs and provides for improve performance low down. Swirl valve not required with EGR disabled.

    Second resistor in the Jaycar pack can be used in the plug of VNT vac solenoid, if you want to remove the VNT vacsol when using Tillix/Dawes manual boost control. CRD require vacsol to be electrically connected (as I do). . Alternatively you can perform the resistor mod that prevents ECU throwing error code. After bending the resistor as pictured. Unplug the Boost control Solenoid and plug the resistor into the plug in its place. Tape it up and you are done.


    Good to hear about comments you get from Chris.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Dhuck (30th September 2020)

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    Patrol God Dhuck's Avatar
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    No mods yet @Bidja. Still absolutely stock. Waiting on pillar pod, gauges, exhaust, CC and IC. Wanted to do this over the school holidays as I was meant to be going on a cruise that did not happen. But stock is low and awaiting postage. Gotta love the stock availability and logistics atm.
    In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dhuck View Post
    No mods yet @Bidja. Still absolutely stock. Waiting on pillar pod, gauges, exhaust, CC and IC. Wanted to do this over the school holidays as I was meant to be going on a cruise that did not happen. But stock is low and awaiting postage. Gotta love the stock availability and logistics atm.
    Stock is good to work with but can be costly and time consuming sorting the wheat from the chaff. Had to learn as I went (never stop I guess).

    IMO opinion hold off on ECU remap for a while, install your pillar pod, gauges, exhaust, CC and IC and get your manual boost control happening. Dawes (3barracing) and Tillix are both good but Tillix is my choice these days(slight differences).

    Best to block EGR pipe at exhaust manifold when fitting new exhaust (3")? and fit EGT probe then heat shield back on _ job done (wrap dump pipe turbo back down to reduce heat to clutch slave cyl). EGR plate at inlet manifold as well. Not here to teach you how to suck eggs just ask.

    You will need a scan tool for real time monitoring and clearing codes etc. Check this out: Ultra Gauge EM Plus_USA 149AUD posted. I primarily use it for monitoring ECT, Boost "relative"(drop across cooler _hot/cold side port with gauge psi), MAP/MAF, rwkw, calculated N-m against engine load (displayed)
    http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm.

    Yes as said, they like to breath easy (air intake /airbox / to turbo ) _ will allow improved air flow and help to achieve improved boost levels. Manual boost control both Dawes or Tillix run higher cruise boost and will rise rapidly with slight eng load applied, spool rate can reduce this but can become laggy and produce higher EGTs. I have been trialing a Tillix + 3 needle valve (improved control of VNT vanes opening) with v.good results (lower boost with higher MAF rate providing acceptable EGTs improved driveabilty (pic of now). Consider installing a conventional manual boost control first eg: Tilix + 1 needle valve to get familiar.

    Note: I had a significant gains in eng performance from introducing, 3" exhaust, EGR block, TIG welded cooler, stock ECU with conventional manual boost control, @ max boost 16.5 psi hauling (good place to start).
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    Last edited by Bidja; 30th September 2020 at 08:19 PM.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Dhuck (30th September 2020)

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    Patrol God Dhuck's Avatar
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    Thanks @Bidja. Was the way me and the missus were working. I am glad I am on the same page. Was wondering though about the exhaust end egr delete and if someone sells these.
    Last edited by Dhuck; 30th September 2020 at 10:35 PM.
    In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".

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    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Will look up purchase detail on pc and let u know . It has 3 stud holes exhaust plate and 2 holes or slots for inlet side
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  11. #17
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dhuck View Post
    Thanks @Bidja. Was the way me and the missus were working. I am glad I am on the same page. Was wondering though about the exhaust end egr delete and if someone sells these.
    The one I bought for exhaust end (3 holes) is no longer available. This one would be fine:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blan....c100005.m1851


    One for inlet side will come with Tillix kit:
    https://www.tillix.com.au/product/bo...ickup-adaptor/

    I bought plate (2 hole) separately as original controller was Dawes (no plate supplied):
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141972175409

    Note: Best if you can keep your boost reference (source) port for Tillix and gauge separate, than using a common T piece in boost line. Cooler may come with additional ports. Tillix may supply 2xbarb fittings from adaptor as this would be fine. They are available from other suppliers. Can buy individual Tillix components and buy adaptor else where.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Dhuck (1st October 2020)

  13. #18
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    something about this doesn't look stock.. cant put my finger on it though

  14. #19
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fireblade View Post
    something about this doesn't look stock.. cant put my finger on it though
    more valves like thumbs as well_just need to decide which way to install and turn. Get VNT vanes to open more gradually low down for more air after initial turbine spin up (higher MAF lower MAP).
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  15. #20
    Expert pollenface's Avatar
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    I am guessing...

    The resistor (or Turbo smart module) changes the signal sent to the ECU to trick it into thinking the incoming air temp is hotter which must be above the threshold for the EGR valve to open. So while thinking the air is hotter and less dense, it allows more air/oxygen to enter the combustion process which in effect lowers the outgoing exhaust gas temps. That is how you're able to fully blank the EGR without getting an error code (or overboost) as the ECU continues to operate within OEM specs.

    Out of curiosity, I wonder what the threshold temp for the EGR is...
    Last edited by pollenface; 16th December 2020 at 01:18 AM.
    2008 CRD Auto Wagon
    Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted, 2x dual batt systems, 3 batteries, arb bullbar, cheap HIDs, stock lift/tyres, rear helper airbags

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