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@mudski to bring your low slab up and level to obtain common datum throughout maybe ARDEX K 900 BF could help mate (Ideal for levelling up to 90mm thick). Need expansion joint and recon use a polyurethane flexible adhesive between timbers/ply etc.
This looks pretty good, have not heard of it or used a system like this. I am guessing you could actually partition the slab as well if the job is done by hand, do one bit per night for example.
This looks pretty good, have not heard of it or used a system like this. I am guessing you could actually partition the slab as well if the job is done by hand, do one bit per night for example.
Hence the reason for an expansion joint, being between the two different sectional thicknesses ((eg: low slab(1st section) to tile area (2nd section)). If tiled area was stable, would seriously consider leaving as is and place a timber substrate (ply, chipboard battens etc) between tiles and proposed flooring.
I have been building a house for too many yrs now (must get back to it), Rammed earth(walls are 300mm thick used road base stabilized with 4% cement and used a product (AVS Special M), used as primer to key old concrete to new pour. I used this stuff to make up a render(up to 50mm thick) to level out window sills and has lasted 10yrs no movement. Similar product constituents would say.
ARDEX are a well known established company.
Not sure if AVS are still around, Mark try ringing them 03 97984994 (Keysbrough)
Hence the reason for an expansion joint, being between the two different sectional thicknesses ((eg: low slab(1st section) to tile area (2nd section)). If tiled area was stable, would seriously consider leaving as is and place a timber substrate (ply, chipboard battens etc) between tiles and proposed flooring.
I have been building a house for too many yrs now (must get back to it), Rammed earth(walls are 300mm thick used road base stabilized with 4% cement and used a product (AVS Special M), used as primer to key old concrete to new pour. I used this stuff to make up a render(up to 50mm thick) to level out window sills and has lasted 10yrs no movement. Similar product constituents would say.
ARDEX are a well known established company.
Not sure if AVS are still around, Mark try ringing them 03 97984994 (Keysbrough)
Given he is putting a floating floor over the slab the need for an expansion joint really is mute. You would only do that if he was going to tile down onto the new slab. In which case flexible tile adhesive and a managed caulked expansion joint in the time bed and that junction should be mandated.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
How many square metres are we talking about @mudski ?
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Expansion joint in the form of inserting expansion foam along length of vertical faces of the existing tiled slab and the new pour.
Yes but the point of that is to control the shrinkage crack when the new pour dries and shinks. If a new floating floor is going down over the top with underlay then it not would really matter at all to be honest. Assuming it's the other way though, tile and mud bed scabbled out then add an pour to the existing slab level as a basic infill. Then new floating floor over that joint.
If still just use yellow tongue or ply.
Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 8th September 2019 at 07:04 PM.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
Yes but the point of that is to control the shrinkage crack when the new pour dries and shinks. If a new floating floor is going down over the top with underlay then it not would really matter at all to be honest. Assuming it's the other way though, tile and mud bed scabbled out then add an pour to the existing slab level as a basic infill. Then new floating floor over that joint.
If still just use yellow tongue or ply.
Just putting up options for consideration @mudski .
Would only consider concrete poor for lower slab only if it was way out of level to obtain a good datum to come up from. Yeah preference remains yellow tongue or ply with use of battens if req'd.
How many square metres are we talking about @mudski ?
Hey mate. Sorry been a busy last 24hrs. It’s not a big area. 3.6 x 2.6 by about 50mm deep. Battening it and then board over the top sounds the best option now after reading all this I think. But I still prefer the idea of filling the area in with conc or similar. Not sure. I have time to think on it.
Thanks.
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Last edited by mudski; 9th September 2019 at 06:26 AM.