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It’s simply a Dawes and Needle valve in one. If it works, which I can’t see why it won’t. It’s actually a neat option in my opinion. Back when I was a Official Dawes distributor, I had plans and drawings of something very similar.
Its neatness is what attracted me to it. I have a dawes valve at the moment. From what I can see that only stops over boosting. I have my boost max set to about 18psi. My boost is still all over the place. This might be a nice alternative to the dawes valves.
So u have stock ECM, full manual boost control (using Dawes + spool needle valve)?
Boost all over the place is concerning. Guess you have the current Dawes (3barracing _ black body unit) improved spring and ceramic ball?
Interested in what cruise boost are you running @ 100kph flat road and what boost when you sightly increase eng load?
Guess you run cruise boost around 16 psi mostly?
Dawes valve only. No needle valve. Still uses the Nissan boost solenoid. I think that the weak link. I have a Beaudesert exhaust and one of those aluminium air cleaner tops. EGR is blocked. I also have Redarc boost and EGT gauge.
That what confuses me. If I am driving up long hills, like the Adelaide hills, it boosts to about 14psi max. And EGT rises. Doesn't go into the red but definitely goes higher. Normal. When on flat road no extra load it hovers around 16-17 PSI. EGT drops way down.
Have had good success with ECM/Vacsol and Dawes as a boost limiter but with a remap. The vacsol with stock ECM could be an issue. Guess your vac hoses are OK maybe u could clean the Dawes and vacsol. Some clean vacsol by flushing with WD40 but I never have had a need.
I was running Vacsol with Dawes as boost limiter (ECM remap and 24psi maxB) for the last 2 months, but did a trip to Melbourne last week down the Hume and was getting sick of running cruise boost 18-20psi w/slight eng loads increase. Vanes are closed most of the time.
I currently run an electronic device that splices into the ECM harness and can maximize the MAF rate by adjustment to the VNT vane aperture opening at different MAP values but this is not for discussion at the moment as I am still working on setting it up.
5 yrs ago use to run the traditional manual boost control _ Dawes and needle valve (no vacsol/stock ECM), running a max B 18psi and cruise up at 16psi (vanes closed most of the time). Moved on from this, does work fine but other options exist.
Try something different, I ran this setup for 12 months with good results, need to open vanes earlier to allow more MAF rate but still get the turbine to spin up fast early for spool.
Setup: Boost controller plus 2 needle valves _ Uses Dawes (say @ 8 psi) +1 needle valve (downstream) adjusted to provide max boost 18psi and use a second needle valve (fresh air pick up / spool needle valve). Could lend u a couple of needle valves but must return them after you trial setup.
Thanks for the offer.... I have looked at that set up before. IMHO I think that there is lots of tubing and more to go wrong. I am drawn to the GFB set up due to its simplicity. I think that I will grab one and have a play. I'll post my results here when I'm done.
That what confuses me. If I am driving up long hills, like the Adelaide hills, it boosts to about 14psi max. And EGT rises. Doesn't go into the red but definitely goes higher. Normal. When on flat road no extra load it hovers around 16-17 PSI. EGT drops way down.
What EGT level hauling at 14psi? Maybe just working, for your set up but yes lower PSI = >EGTs
Do u experience limp?
Originally Posted by Coldcomfort
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