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26th June 2018, 10:35 PM
#51
Spent only about 10 minutes on it tonight. Gott he control box off, the rusted on circlip on the brake shaft, then the washer and thats it. The brake cover wont budge. So its soaking in everything until I get to it next. Also order the kits from amazon too.
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26th June 2018 10:35 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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27th June 2018, 09:36 PM
#52
How does the brake assembly come off the shaft? I assume once the circlip is off, the whole lot should slide off? The circlip and washer were pretty rusted, so the rust is holding the rest together.
IMG_0818.JPG
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27th June 2018, 09:57 PM
#53
Legendary
Ah yep they're a bastard ! ! Defiantly a good soak should help think I ended up putting the brake assembly in a vice and whacking the shaft and eventually got it. Might need some heat too, years of rust makes them a biatch . . . Good luck . . .
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27th June 2018, 10:05 PM
#54
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
mudski
How does the brake assembly come off the shaft? I assume once the circlip is off, the whole lot should slide off? The circlip and washer were pretty rusted, so the rust is holding the rest together.
IMG_0818.JPG
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27th June 2018, 10:54 PM
#55
Originally Posted by
Rossco
Ah yep they're a bastard ! ! Defiantly a good soak should help think I ended up putting the brake assembly in a vice and whacking the shaft and eventually got it. Might need some heat too, years of rust makes them a biatch . . . Good luck . . .
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Can I remove the shaft from the casing with the brake still on it?
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28th June 2018, 12:57 AM
#56
Moderator
Originally Posted by
mudski
Can I remove the shaft from the casing with the brake still on it?
Yes mate. That case is actually spring loaded. Spray and soak. Then hit hard.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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28th June 2018, 06:54 AM
#57
.........
‘Penetrene’ is great stuff mate.
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28th June 2018, 08:06 AM
#58
The 747
Originally Posted by
Rossco
Ah yep they're a bastard ! ! Defiantly a good soak should help think I ended up putting the brake assembly in a vice and whacking the shaft and eventually got it. Might need some heat too, years of rust makes them a biatch . . . Good luck . . .
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Yep. Take the shaft out of the housing and then whack the hell out of it. Go hard.
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28th June 2018, 08:12 AM
#59
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Is there any issues with peening the shafts end, metal on metal, a hardwood block between advisable perhaps?
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29th June 2018, 11:11 PM
#60
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Friday nights, re-reading Mr Mark mate. Honest apologies if my posts have come across negative. High Mounts are awesome and please do Cherish that Beast in time $ to slowly build/come as you’ve mentioned planned.
I do worry for you and your families wellbeing with a GVM 3.4T legally increased GU beast. Rules of thumb are double your vehicles weight for a suitable recreational winch and then some for a grown family (++camper trailer) etc... General truck/winch loading advice here above has been from Genuine Top Blokes although GQ/Y60’s are at least 50% less weight than your upcoming needs. Wanking on..I’ve owned only two high mount winches over say 20 years. They are at their peak IMO in standard form on a 2.0Tish recreational truck. Double line block back will halve your speed and length if I recall correctly totally negating the benefits of a high mount barrel! Darren is passionate about brake shafts and their strengths for good reason on big trucks!
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