Exhaust, Gauges, Dyno, Dawse, Needles & Intercoolers

[threedogs]

Are those beanies as easy to fit as they look like they should? They look like you should just be able to pull them around the turbo and have it in all in place within 5 minutes.

The beanie is very easy to fit all you'll need is a pair of long nose plyers
Its all about thermal dynamics it [beanie] keeps the heat inside the turbo
and not radiating out, I luv it

[threedogs]

I'm not wrapping anything, I'll get the mechinic to refit the heat shield when I get services in a few weeks.

I also looked at the 2nd battery holder. It has the end near the turbo fully enclosed if that makes any sense so that will deflect some of the turbo heat. I have some 3mm alloy sheet banging around in the shed, I'm going to make a simple shield to sit just off the battery holder, that should give the battery lots of protection.

One thing I've noticed over the past few days since the 3" zorst went on is the turbo fluctuating, I can feel the throttle pulsate now.

I'm looking forward to getting the Dawse installed in about 2 weeks and having this little project complete, it's been a great learning curve that I've enjoyed very much.

As for wrapping or not wrapping do your research, yes it will dry quickly its on an exhaust pipe FCOL.
Personally I wouldn't wrap Ive seen what it can do to an exhaust.
It may well be different with todays aluminized steel, but not for me

[10G]

OK. Fitted the Boost Gauge on Saturday ...

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and unlit ...

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[10G]

Made myself a QED heatsink for the aux battery to protect it from the turbo heat this arvo ...

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and

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The heatsink sits off the battery holder so there's a small air gap (5mm) between the battery holder and the alloy sheet. It should make a difference and it's a QED product ;-)

[10G]

To wrap this adventure up .....

With the help of @bigguwesty the Dawse & needle valves were installed on Saturday. It's real nice to watch the boost gauge sit steadily at a certain value and not go up and down like a darn yo-yo. Throttle response is improved as well and so is spool up time, the latter affecting the former no doubt.

It's probably just me, but it felt like the motor was more stable while driving and also at idle.

Thanks to @bigguwesty for all his help and patience trying to explain this 'dark art' to me, much appreciated mate.

[Warwick89]

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so I now have my gauges fitted, only took the auto elec... 4 days and $800 still better than getting them done at ARB or TJM lol.

ok so I've got one major problem and after spending all day reading I'm starting to get confused:

problems
#1 egt hit 650 at 100ks on a flat straight,

#2 boost stayed around 4-6psi constantly apart from the odd occasion where it would climb to 10-12psi; so this I think is the priority as fixing this should effect egt's anyway. so this is were the CONFUSED part comes into play, can someone explain to me how the needle valve works and what effect it has on a stienbauer performance chip if any????

I will be going on a 3500k trip in the a few weeks but I only have one week at home before than so really need to get my head around this.

cheers Warwick


edit: and yes ive used the search function and yes I've read other post.

[Warwick89]

Ok after checking all hoses I'm certain that there is no cracking or leaks, although I desperately need a catch can.

[10G]

@Warwick89, I'm far from being an expert in this area, but I suggest your high egts are due to low boost.

Have you mentioned what you've had done? I can see you have 3 gauges, did you get a dawse and needle valve installed?? If yes, I'd suggest your dawse valve needs to be screwed in a bit if your gauge contstantly shows only 4-6 psi, that's crazilly way too low. Try by screwing it in 1 turn and see how much more boost you get, if not, try 2 and see etc etc etc. Just beware that boost increases exponentionally so it'll be low, then all of a sudden way high.

Also, try starting your own 'help' thread, it may attract a few more eyeballs.

Good luck.

[threedogs]

X 2 you need to increase your boost it is way to low,
Needle valve has nothing to do with your chip.
Have you noticed if your IC is oily?? if yes then
its leaking and will required a fully tigged and tested
IC

[Warwick89]

@Warwick89, I'm far from being an expert in this area, but I suggest your high egts are due to low boost.

Have you mentioned what you've had done? I can see you have 3 gauges, did you get a dawse and needle valve installed?? If yes, I'd suggest your dawse valve needs to be screwed in a bit if your gauge contstantly shows only 4-6 psi, that's crazilly way too low. Try by screwing it in 1 turn and see how much more boost you get, if not, try 2 and see etc etc etc. Just beware that boost increases exponentionally so it'll be low, then all of a sudden way high.

Also, try starting your own 'help' thread, it may attract a few more eyeballs.

Good luck.

@10G sorry I had a few under my belt by the stage I wrote that.

I haven't installed a needle and/or dawes valve yet that was going to be my solution to the low boost issue I noticed after fitting the three gauges last week. my main worry was that the dawes and needle valve would effect the chip and tune in some way?? i am unaware of the relationship between them and the chip and tune.

So went for another drive this morning after replacing a dead crank battery and boost was roughly as follows:

12-14psi from 0-60kmh @2500rpm
6psi cruising at 60kmh @1800rpm
12-14psi while increasing speed to 80kmh @2500rpm
8-10psi at 80kmh cruising @2000rpm

boost was very minimal at lower speeds???

couldn't get 100kmh readings because traffic blocked up in cairns only 100km zone lol

ALSO egt's for all above were around 450-500deg