All Things Chev

[PeeBee]

Funny enough you can top it up with water, which i dont understand how that works if you have to purge the water from the system to begin with. I suspect the risk would be minimal anyway as never had an issue with hoses so far. Anyway its on the backburner for now.

[MB]

That is weird wow, just water top up for emergencies maybe? We could always carry 5L each on a 4 car convoy too mate!

[the evil twin]

Funny enough you can top it up with water, which i dont understand how that works if you have to purge the water from the system to begin with. I suspect the risk would be minimal anyway as never had an issue with hoses so far. Anyway its on the backburner for now.

Which then costs another 397 for a purge and a further 397 for new coolant as you have to dump the old stuff as it is contaminated...

[PeeBee]

Which then costs another 397 for a purge and a further 397 for new coolant as you have to dump the old stuff as it is contaminated...

I know, its sounds daft to me. I am going to ring one of their agents and ask the question.

[PeeBee]

MIXING COOLANTS
Waterless and water-based coolants should not be mixed. In the event that significant
waterless coolant is lost from the system during operation and no waterless coolant is
available to fill the system and reach a repair facility, water-based coolant or water may be
used. However, repairs should be made as soon as possible, and the system should be
drained, purged and re-filled with new waterless coolant

This is from their website, so yes a leak can be expensive or you carry a bottle of the stuff. There is another 'synthetic water free coolant avail but no specs on their website regards boiling points at all.

[mudnut]

I did read that the waterless stuff is able to work with a certain % of water as its very hard to remove all of the water in the system, even with a flush. I also wonder how good this stuff is for the environment?

[PeeBee]

Who cares - you shouldn't be running it with a leaking system unless you are Richard Branson, so really it doesn't come into the equation in my view. If you look at all the other lubricants in your vehicle none of them will aid the expansion of a remote platypus population, so toxic or not, simply another fluid which is treated with respect.

I agree with your comment about the efficiency as its nigh on impossible to remove all the water unless you go to a heap of trouble like draining, blowing thru with high volume/low pressure air and then maybe heating the block or blowing hot air thru to dry it out. There is no indication of the cooling efficiency drop per % of water either - doubt they even know. I am going to have a look at the other 'product' with 'nano particles etc etc blah b;ah blah' and see if I can find a product that is cheaper to swap with better cooling properties than the glycol mixes.

[mudnut]

Who cares.

I do, to an extent. I have built a solar evaporator out of old solar water heaters, to process any used coolant from my vehicles (who's a good boy?)

I was thinking more of contamination around the home and the like.

I discounted using the waterless coolant, because I have to change out the timing belt every 100000 ks.

[PeeBee]

I do, to an extent. I have built a solar evaporator out of old solar water heaters, to process any used coolant from my vehicles (who's a good boy?)

I was thinking more of contamination around the home and the like.

I discounted using the waterless coolant, because I have to change out the timing belt every 100000 ks. Not a problem for your machine , though.

Craig, I take your point. I am pretty careful with leaking fluid here as well. When you evaporate the coolant, whats the residue and what do you do with it? The coolant is ideally collected and recycled for use as its life is stated as 'for the life of the vehicle. i recognise its difficult to catch everything, plus when it is removed it needs to be kept in an airtight vessel as its hydroscopic.

[nissannewby]

Waterless coolant wont make it run cooler.

Keep in mind the other aspects of a cooling system. No point in raising the boiling temperature to levels that you engine is already damaged at. Also keep in mind increasing boiling point or any temperature will increase system pressure so you are still at factory limits unless a high psi cap is used.

For the most part the glycol or coolant is mostly for corrosion protection. While it does help with temperature properties so does a pressurised system so they work hand in hand. The coolant, water or even the "waterless" coolant is only a median to carry the heat to the heat exchanger. At best you might get 12 degrees differential across a radiator. So if any other part of the system is not coping it is not really the coolant at fault.