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I took the A/C belt and adjuster pulley off as the compressor is stuffed. No use running the belt for nothing. I have to get a new radiator, completely overhaul the brakes and change out the gearbox oil for the correct stuff before I even think about fixing the A/C.
I personally think that its also got a lot to do with the Kelvin rating of the globes.
Lots are being sold in the 6000k to 8000k range. Whilst light penetration is good at these levels seemingly the harshness for the light goes up too.
The warmer colour lights (more yellow) are no where near as harsh coming towards you nor so reflective off road signs.
Thats why i try and stick to around 4500 to 5000k. I do lose some light output (lumens) but much easier on my eyes let alone anyone elses.
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You make a good point Mike. It is the colour of the light, (harsh white) not just the brightness.
Winnie, I take your point, but I think Mike's point has merit too. I'm not suggesting that just by having LED lights you are guilty of dazzling other road users, but I am pretty sure that some that have dazzled me have had the required cut off line. You can see the spread of light from a distance away. It's when they get closer that I have a problem. It's the quality of the light which 'gets' me. I may be a bit more sensitive than some due to having had cataract surgery in both eyes?
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Must be a grumpy old man thing, as I have a lot of trouble with the glare from the blueish lights too.
Took my 100watt hid 6000k out .I only need a decent "high beam" set up
so my 100 HID 6000k driving lights and and my double row light bar will be ok for me.
LED arent quite there yet IMO, very happy with my 90/100 hi/low beams as well
and to think all the $$$ I spent trying to get the brightest lights I could, just a waste IMO
in hind sight
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Gday Cuppa, sorry regardless of my previous post I actually am in the right thread! Just wanted to put forward my opinion on this issue.
As @MB said steel putty is really good stuff, but specifically i wanted to raise the issue of superfluous weight when touring. The post I deleted above read as such:
Steel putty is great sh!t. Dont leave home without it. Never used it in anger but gave it a test run on a hole in some steel at home. What can i say, it's hard as a rock, would have trouble chiselling it off. Essential item for touring and doesnt weigh 13-odd kilos. Personally I'd not carry a full spare oil change when touring, especially behind the rear axle with corrugations, cantilevered forces and all. A good sump guard, a container to catch oil leaks and steel putty in the kit but that's just my opinion.
A completely smashed sump (and subsequent uncontrolled spill) when touring is very unlikely imho.
Plassy, you might recall my drama with the Chev conversion and punching a hole thru the sump at 222klm from new?I lost 5L of oil and it could not be stopped because it was stinking hot and i didn't have a pan large enough to catch it anyway, so after letting it cool, cleaned it up, bogged the slot full of liquid putty metal stuff and then had the nightmare of finding 5L of oil down the bottom of Burgoynes Gap. The guy I was with fortunately had 4L and the remainder was made up of chainsaw oil. Now I carry the putty and enough oil for a complete change, as again you can always get caught and drown the engine and need to drain it as well - and yes i have been in that predicament before also. This stuff is the tale of nightmares, but they can happen, so I reckon the extra 10kg is good insurance in my view.Only thing I would try to do is distribute it between the wheels not over the back, but thats just a simple. 'what can you do' situation I guess.
Plassy, you might recall my drama with the Chev conversion and punching a hole thru the sump at 222klm from new?I lost 5L of oil and it could not be stopped because it was stinking hot and i didn't have a pan large enough to catch it anyway, so after letting it cool, cleaned it up, bogged the slot full of liquid putty metal stuff and then had the nightmare of finding 5L of oil down the bottom of Burgoynes Gap. The guy I was with fortunately had 4L and the remainder was made up of chainsaw oil. Now I carry the putty and enough oil for a complete change, as again you can always get caught and drown the engine and need to drain it as well - and yes i have been in that predicament before also. This stuff is the tale of nightmares, but they can happen, so I reckon the extra 10kg is good insurance in my view.Only thing I would try to do is distribute it between the wheels not over the back, but thats just a simple. 'what can you do' situation I guess.
could get a couple of 5lt wine cask bladders and put oil in them then will fit anywhere
Now I carry the putty and enough oil for a complete change, as again you can always get caught and drown the engine and need to drain it as well - and yes i have been in that predicament before also. This stuff is the tale of nightmares, but they can happen, so I reckon the extra 10kg is good insurance in my view.
I agree that the chances of a situation requiring the emergency need to replenish an engine-full of oil is pretty unlikely in our touring situation, but the impact of this happening without the oil is potentially huge. Given the choice of carrying 10kg of oil vs the potential for a recovery costing many thousands of dollars taking the oil seems wise. It doesn’t mean that we’ll carry the oil all the time, but having a spot allocated to it for when we think it is wise is the idea. Whether we fill the container will depend upon what sort of country, & how remote the country is we will be travelling in. Carrying it at the rear of the vehicle is not ideal, & if/when possible we will move the weight forward, however I feel that having the time to travel slowly & gently (i.e. to dawdle) is a significant mitigating factor re risk of weight induced problems. We will be ‘heavy’ but will not be travelling above our vehicle’s weight limit of 3900kg.
We could instead invest in aftermarket underbody ‘armour’, but the weight of this is likely to be more than that of the oil, & would be a permanent weight.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Finally stripped out my 3 gal alloy air tank, have a mate who will test it for me so thats peace of mind.
Ive been running this tank since about 1995. , it cant rust so thats good but my mate will do all the tests neccessary
so I'll know its safe. Originally I filled it via a $650 Big Balls 3/4hp compressor, but todays "Thumper" would out do it I think.
Along with another tank, dont know if I'll use it yet or not will run air tools, air horn and a front Pro-locker.
I think I have enough room to squeeeeeeze it underneath. 1995 they were only $40 from a place in Brisbane
doing street car suspension, My side tarp for my awning also arrived looks weatherproof to my eye.
Nearly time to go and get lost somewhere, .
Last edited by threedogs; 27th May 2017 at 12:49 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there