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Thread: Mudski GU Build Thread

  1. #561
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Yeah after speaking to a few mechanics that do a lot of TD’s including the chap who rebuilt the injectors a hi flow water pump isn’t ideal, pushing the water too fast through the radiator before it’s had time to cool is not the best scenario. So we’ll try a stockie.
    I know doing one thing at a time is the best way but I bit over it and just want it done. So if everything I do from here works, great.


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    Hey Mark,

    I dont subscribe to that theory at all. I think it is pretty average Spin actually from Facebook gooses. Unfortunately if it is said enough, Myth can become belief. It is a shame a trained Mechanic cant distinguish the difference though.

    It boggles belief that a Trained Mechanic suggests that a HiFlow Water Pump will cause the water to travel too fast through the cooling element. Shoot that bloke! he is Brain Dead.

    The Hi Flow water pump is designed to provide Pressure to the flow, the Pressure in the flow will ensure a strong delivery of cooled water when the Thermostat Opens........ The bloody Thermostat will determine how long the water takes to flow through the system and when it is cool enough. The idea is to ensure there is little to no cavitation and the water, when released by the thermostat, flows efficiently and quickly to where it is needed. When the Thermostat feels the temperature change it closes and the Water pump cycles on.

    To suggest that the Hiflow pump wont let the water sit in the radiator long enough defies basic physics. When the Door is closed (Thermostat)the cyclone stays Outside and the air inside your house remains calm... you open your front door and your back door and you will get knocked over, Close the bloody door and it is over.

    Your Hiflow pump looks like the JPC Pump and i run this pump. there is a guy on FB that makes his own design and his testing suggests his is slightly better but IMO the Jury is out on that. This is a good unit and you should fit it with confidence.
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 16th October 2020 at 04:00 PM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
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  4. #562
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Hey Mark,

    I dont subscribe to that theory at all. I think it is pretty average Spin actually from Facebook gooses. Unfortunately if it is said enough Myth can become belief. It is a shame a trained Mechanic cant distinguish the difference though.

    It boggles belief that a Trained Mechanic suggests that a HiFlow Water Pump will cause the water to travel too fast through the cooling element. Shoot that bloke! he is Brain Dead.

    The Hi Flow water pump is designed to provide Pressure to the flow, the Pressure in the flow will ensure a strong delivery of cooled water when the Thermostat Opens........ The bloody Thermostat will determine how long the water takes to flow through the system and when it is cool enough. The idea is to ensure there is little to no cavitation and the water, when released by the thermostat, flows efficiently and quickly to where it is needed. When the Thermostat feels the temperature change it closes and the Water pump cycles on.

    Your Hiflow pump looks like the JPC Pump and i run this pump. there is a guy on FB that makes his own design and his testing suggests his is slightly better but IMO the Jury is out on that. This is a good unit and you should fit it with confidence.
    I hear what your saying Darren loud and clear mate. I don't really read much on the FB pages, most comments are to just send it bro, and from half wit kids. Theres so many "theories" floating around, and I've just about finished with trying them all. So time will tell. Yes I have the JPC pump, so if I see changes for the better in what I have done, I will leave it alone. If not. Well, I'll think about that if and when I get to it.

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  6. #563
    The master farter
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    Pretty!
    IMG_3579.jpg


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  8. #564
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    Mudski GU Build Thread

    Fan fits on pretty snug. About 30mm bigger in diameter than the G35 fan too. Quikazz have done a pretty good job of it. Keen to see the results.
    IMG_3581.jpg

    Gonna attempt to remove the plug in the block tomorrow and give the block a good flush. Maybe the plug for the oil temp switch in the block too. We’ll see about that one.

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    Last edited by mudski; 16th October 2020 at 08:07 PM.

  9. #565
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    Not that it's worth anything, but here's my 2 cents.

    My 4wd before I got the trol was a 2.4 TD Toyota surf. Go on have a laugh.

    These little engines are known for overheating, but the overall size makes these things nibble in the bush.

    I went through all the same shit, radiator, clutch fan, block flushed, gauges, at one stage replaced the head as it cracked. That was a $1385 job with me doing the labour. Was still have issues and about 6 months later had it booked in for a dyno. Came back with leaking combustion gases into the cooling system. A small hole or crack in the block. So I ended up with a reco short block. Not long are that I moved it on.

    It got to a point where I was driving with one eye on the road and the other on the temp gauge always. Couldn't tow anything, everytime it was under load the temp would climb.

    The last straw was driving through the Otways in the middle of winter it was probably 10 degrees outside and drizzling and I had to stop 3/4 the way up a hill because I was overheating.

    What I should've done from the start was drop a 1uz v8, 6 bolt mains and quad cams good for around 200kw.

    That's why I've got the gas blower, the 3lt stories scared the crap out of me and the 4.2 were out of $$$ range.

    I was done with diesels.

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  13. #567
    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good
    Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.

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  15. #568
    The 747 Winnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Yes have thought about that. But will wait to see how this new fan setup goes. Took it for a spin today. Looks promising. And I thought the G35 on a fully locked viscous hub was noisy. Gawd! I sound like a whistling hovercraft now.
    Yep told you so mate! Hope it helps to bring your temps under control.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Mark, have you thought of increasing depth of fan cowl, most likely pull more air. looking good
    The rule of thumb I was told was 2/3 of the fan blade inside the cowl and 1/3 outside the cowl. I don't understand this however as the ducting handbooks i have used for the past 40 odd years have the fan efficiency best with the blades totally enclosed inside the tube of the ducting. On that basis i extended the cowling on my fan cowl when the vehicle was vee belt drive and n/a, by simply buying a strip of 2mm x 50 flat bar and tec screwing it onto the existing in places to hold it then clamped the ends. To be honest, didn't make any noticeable difference, still ran hot at high revs low speed 4wd stuff, so on that basis I have not done the mod to the new setup as yet. Word of warning though, the fan blades do flatten out at speed and the swept diameter does increase a bit - on mine the fan grew 10mm on the diameter, and i know this because the ears of the plastic blade were chewed off by the small projection of the tec screw. I had 25mm clearance from staic fan blade to housing. The new setup is close than this, so if i do the cowl extension i will be mounting it differently.

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    Mudski GU Build Thread

    Whatever you do from here on in Mr Mark Mate!
    Be sure to not completely remove your fully open thermostat as it will create a super “Hi-Flow” affect hindering your radiator OEM designed/allowed cool down time within
    Will guaranteed boil up hills under load and damagingly cool down hills due to too much radiator flow


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