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Thread: Tims gold GU + RD28 TI Engine build thread

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    Tims gold GU + RD28 TI Engine build thread

    Hi all,
    I introduced myself earlier today and made mention of my engine build so here are a few pics.
    Just some back ground on myself and the truck first.
    I am a trade qualified fitter & turner and have been in the industry more or less for the last 10 years. I have been playing with cars, bikes, boats and almost anything with an engine for longer than that. I like to play a bit on the edge when it comes to performance builds and hate it when someone tells me I cant build something or do something because it would of been done already if it was worth doing.
    anyway the GU I bought standard around 12months ago with a blown turbo but otherwise in OK condition.
    Trailered it home and put a 2nd hand genuine turbo on it. I had the truck on the road with rego and insurance for under 5k and it stayed that way for a few months before I started with the normal dual battery, exhaust, bulbar, winch stuff.
    It did however develop an issue with the fuel delivery system that was causing bad power loss in certain circumstances. after replacing the MAF, CAS and No1 injector the problem still remained. So I brought a mechanical pump off the GQ version RD28 and threw the electronic IP in the bin. I did however use the plunger and rotor head plus few other components off the electronic pump to upgrade the mechanical unit to 11mm. Since putting this on the truck performs way better and use comparable amount of diesel as before. I also put a W2A intercooler setup on the truck plus a heap of gauges.
    Now the reason we are all here.... it did what all good RD28s do and started to use water ( that's a harsh statement but it is a common thing). Instead of pulling the engine and doing a rebuild that would result in the truck being off the road for a few months I decided to buy a 2nd hand engine and do the build on that.
    Now being that I want this Patrol to take myself and the family around the country and not have to worry about the engine I decided on a full top to bottom build and not just throw it in and hope for the best. When I striped the 2nd engine down it was found to have cracked head also and that added to the build cost but in this game you have to pay to play if you want it right.
    All I have for the moment is the pics of the build from a few hours work today, I will try to add more as I complete the engine and through out the install.
    For those interested the cost so far sits around $3500 excluding the purchase of the engine. That's parts and machine work on the block plus a brand new head.
    Photos to come
    Cheers
    Tim

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    So the insert image icon wont let me upload photos from my computer, It comes up and i can browse for the image but there is no "apply or OK" tab to actually upload the image?????
    Am i doing something wrong?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim RD28GU View Post
    So the insert image icon wont let me upload photos from my computer, It comes up and i can browse for the image but there is no "apply or OK" tab to actually upload the image?????
    Am i doing something wrong?
    "upload files" directly under the file path box
    2003 GU TD42 with a few extra ponies

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    Ah ok got it sorry on my screen it looked like that as a description not a button to click on.

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    IMG_20200210_072335.jpg
    Bench full of parts to start with

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    IMG_20200210_072942.jpgIMG_20200210_072922.jpg
    Dont know how well the porting shows up on the camera. Just a very basic port match and casting clean up, most of the work was done around the valve seat and valve stem portion of the ports. Worth mention that from factory the port design and casting is not to bad at all. That would be a big reason why the can get to the 5200rpm redline.

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    IMG_20200210_072956.jpg
    It is nice working with brand new casting

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    IMG_20200210_090414.jpg
    New pistons on the rods, new gudgen pins and bushes used also.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Tim RD28GU For This Useful Post:

    mudnut (13th February 2020)

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    IMG_20200210_105919.jpg
    Laying the crank in for a dry run to check bearing clearance

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    IMG_20200210_112206.jpgIMG_20200210_112654.jpg
    I prefer Plasta Gauge to using micrometers for this job but thats just me.

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