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17th September 2018, 12:29 PM
#1
2"lift steering wheel of center, everything is stock
hi,
so ive read plenty of threads about this and im abit lost.
ive got a 2008 y61 wagon with 2 inch lift everything else is stock such as sway-bar & links, brake lines, steering arms and so on.
when driving on highways i hold the steering wheel turned right about 1 o'clock id say
when i let go within 2 seconds the wheel turns to 11 oçlock'ish and at 11 oclock the front wheels must point the the left so the car pulls left fast.
so ive read alot and i want someone to tell me what i should do.
adjustable drag link?
return to center dampener?
both?
wheel alignment? dont hink this will do anything as theres nothing to adjust?
i was going to pull the steering wheel of and rotate it anti clock wise but all that would do is mean i would be at 12 oclock and going straight and let go and wheel would go to 10 oclock and pull left.
i want to do it right.
im thinking drag link would be the way to go but dont know if that would fix my issue.
my wheel is of center in both directions so i think a longer drag link would make it good one wat and worse the other, and a shorter drag link would be the other way.
im overthinking this thing?
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17th September 2018 12:29 PM
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17th September 2018, 02:24 PM
#2
I would get a wheel alignment first to make sure everything is ok. Pulling to the left is a fairly common issue with the Patrols, can simply be due to the off camber on the road. A RTC dampener fixed the issue for me as every single aspect of my steering and suspension geometry checked out good. I would advise on getting an adjustable drag link too so when the drifting left issue is resolved you can centre the steering wheel via the drag link.
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17th September 2018, 03:38 PM
#3
am i better getting the wheel alignment first of the adjustable drag link?
id hate to go to the wheel aligner and them tell me theres not much adjustment in a partol.
if i get the drag link first then at least they can adjust it during the alignment?
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17th September 2018, 05:07 PM
#4
Smart like tractor
Originally Posted by
Fireblade
am i better getting the wheel alignment first of the adjustable drag link?
id hate to go to the wheel aligner and them tell me theres not much adjustment in a partol.
if i get the drag link first then at least they can adjust it during the alignment?
You are always better getting a wheel allignment and a written report of all your steering geometries. You need to know exactly whats is what and where it needs to be.
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ben-e-boy For This Useful Post:
MudRunnerTD (17th September 2018), mudski (17th September 2018)
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17th September 2018, 06:31 PM
#5
Moderator
Originally Posted by
Ben-e-boy
You are always better getting a wheel allignment and a written report of all your steering geometries. You need to know exactly whats is what and where it needs to be.
^^^What he said^^^
Also the Drag link has nothing to do with an alignment. it aligns the steering wheel to straight and helps your steering find the centre of the steering box but nothing else. More likely to be a Tie Rod issue or caster issue.
Caster, Toe and alignment can all be adjusted on a Patrol. Camber cannot unless you fit Offset Kingpin bearing races which work great. Even alignment is difficult to adjust without adjustable Panhards.
Get an alignment report done. it might be enough to fix the problem.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
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MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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18th September 2018, 12:13 AM
#6
Patrol Freak
Thinking out loud here - caster correction, understand stock caster has a tolerance of +/- 1 deg and normally 1 degree of correction is required / 1 inch of lift. I run 2" lift and have 2 deg caster correction bushes fitted. Saying this, some can get away with retaining stock caster bushes. A wheel alignment should identify if a need exist but I would buy some 2 degree caster correction bushes and a good steering SME would do wheel alignment and fit the bushes at same time . Many suppliers around, superior eng sell them:
https://www.superiorengineering.com....hane-coil-8843
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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18th September 2018, 08:17 AM
#7
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Thinking out loud here - caster correction, understand stock caster has a tolerance of +/- 1 deg and normally 1 degree of correction is required / 1 inch of lift. I run 2" lift and have 2 deg caster correction bushes fitted. Saying this, some can get away with retaining stock caster bushes. A wheel alignment should identify if a need exist but I would buy some 2 degree caster correction bushes and a good steering SME would do wheel alignment and fit the bushes at same time . Many suppliers around, superior eng sell them:
https://www.superiorengineering.com....hane-coil-8843
Personally I would just use Genuine bushes for a 2inch lift and not use castor correction bushes. Anything higher than 2inch, use drop boxes.
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18th September 2018, 09:57 AM
#8
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
mudski
Personally I would just use Genuine bushes for a 2inch lift and not use castor correction bushes. Anything higher than 2inch, use drop boxes.
In your opinion, for 2" lift why not caster correction bushes?
Last edited by Bidja; 18th September 2018 at 10:00 AM.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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18th September 2018, 10:13 AM
#9
Originally Posted by
mudski
Personally I would just use Genuine bushes for a 2inch lift and not use castor correction bushes. Anything higher than 2inch, use drop boxes.
if i use genuine bushes then the caster will be un-changed from what is is now.
i understand drag link will only control the centering of the steering wheel
if the wheel is wanting to turn to 11 o'clock without me holding it then a wheel alignment might be what i need.
if i get a adjustable drag link and rtc dampener i might be able to make it all good. feel like a wheel alignment is a wast of money. hate taking the car to other people for work and i always leave thinking it was a waste of time.
is adjusting the drag link something i can do at home and gauge by feel?
i spoke to pedders, guy told me from what im saying he doesn't think caster. he said wheel alignment and check the numbers and go form there, but also said fix will likely be offset kingpin bearnings $$$$
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18th September 2018, 05:41 PM
#10
Smart like tractor
Originally Posted by
Fireblade
if i use genuine bushes then the caster will be un-changed from what is is now.
i understand drag link will only control the centering of the steering wheel
if the wheel is wanting to turn to 11 o'clock without me holding it then a wheel alignment might be what i need.
if i get a adjustable drag link and rtc dampener i might be able to make it all good. feel like a wheel alignment is a wast of money. hate taking the car to other people for work and i always leave thinking it was a waste of time.
is adjusting the drag link something i can do at home and gauge by feel?
i spoke to pedders, guy told me from what im saying he doesn't think caster. he said wheel alignment and check the numbers and go form there, but also said fix will likely be offset kingpin bearnings $$$$
Rtc dampers are crap. If the wheel is being pulled to the 11 o'clock position then it will likely be due to the lift.
Wheel allignments are never a waste of money when you get the figures on paper. What ends up being a waste of money is believing an allignment is a waste of money and the trying to diagnose an issue by just guessing and throwing parts at it. Very much like an rtc damper, which is a bandaid fix that you are seemingly happy to waste money on and more expensive than a wheel allignment that you think is a waste of money.
Be weary of offset kingpin bearnings, the race is concentric and the thinner area can and has failed prematurely. Also, installing an offset bearing (in the top for instance) will damage the other bearing in time as those bearings are no longer running square and true on their own race.
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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