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Thread: 4.2 tdi coolant temp

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    Expert dpetersen's Avatar
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    4.2 tdi coolant temp

    Hey guys.
    Plugged in my ECUTalk into my recently purchased 2006 4.2tdi.
    Outside temp was around 30ish. Temps sat around 92/93 at 100k/ph. Thought I’d work her a bit harder and see what happened (speed limit is 130 here), sat at 110 on flat surface for around 10mins and temp got up to about 103 before I backed off.
    I am thinking this is a bit high, what are your thoughts?
    Going to change the radiator cap, pressure tank cap and thermostat next weekend to all new genuine Nissan parts.
    What’s the thermostat set at on the original? On my old zd I used to run genuine Nissan coolant at about 30% strait to 70% water. Is this the same for the 4.2?


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    2006 4.2 tdi wagon
    TJM BullBar and bar work, Light bar & spotlights, Airtech snorkel, tradie rack, blocked egr, 2inch lift on 33s and a 3 inch exhaust to go with it all.
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    Hey Mate

    Congratulations on the purchase of a Td42tdi
    what made you sell your zd30?


    Anyway I do personally think thats higher than it should be.


    Even today 40 degrees I hit around 78 degrees at most around suburb. Highway on a hot 38 degree day I hit at most was 83 degrees.

    Good idea changing all the cheap stuff and easy stuff first.


    Sounds like some maintenance is creeping up that is required.
    How many kms on the car?

    Id say Could be fan clutch or Radiator needs to be replaced or taken to Radiator place to open end tanks and rod/clean out tubes.

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    It's still within Nissan operating spec. I hit those temps on hot days on long long steep hills or towing on hot days long hills.




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    Did come back down quickly ish when you took your foot off?


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    I think its 115 or 119c is when the factory GU temp gauge will start to move towards hot. Your temps are pretty much on par with mine. Having said that, mine was running cooler prior to getting new injectors. I just think I need to get the TD a good tune up.

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    Expert dpetersen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drgtr View Post
    Hey Mate

    Congratulations on the purchase of a Td42tdi
    what made you sell your zd30?


    Anyway I do personally think thats higher than it should be.


    Even today 40 degrees I hit around 78 degrees at most around suburb. Highway on a hot 38 degree day I hit at most was 83 degrees.

    Good idea changing all the cheap stuff and easy stuff first.


    Sounds like some maintenance is creeping up that is required.
    How many kms on the car?

    Id say Could be fan clutch or Radiator needs to be replaced or taken to Radiator place to open end tanks and rod/clean out tubes.
    Thanks mate - I had just lost all faith in my zd. I had the motor rebuilt at 280000ish which cost me around 7k. Sold it when it was at 345000k. Spent a lot of money upgrading everything - intercooler, radiator, Dawes & needle, egr block, catch can, gauges etc etc. Then things just started braking/wearing out- as they do when cars get old, alternator, suspension sagged, clutch and heaps of other things, I just got sick of changing parts every second weekend on a car that I was worried was going to brake down on me every time I went into town (330ks each way) so upgraded to the 4.2 for a bit more reliability!


    The td has now got 222000 on it. So far all I’ve done is block the egr. Viscous fan seems ok and temp drop down pretty quickly once I back off. Went for a drive today - about 40 odd outside, sat at 80ks and temps were at 84ish, then sat on 100 for a bit and they got up to 95.

    How many liters of coolant does the td take and what ratio do you use?


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    TJM BullBar and bar work, Light bar & spotlights, Airtech snorkel, tradie rack, blocked egr, 2inch lift on 33s and a 3 inch exhaust to go with it all.
    Plenty more to come!

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    50/50 mix I do on mine. I think its about 13 litres or so of coolant if you get all the coolant out of the block.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpetersen View Post
    Thanks mate - I had just lost all faith in my zd. I had the motor rebuilt at 280000ish which cost me around 7k. Sold it when it was at 345000k. Spent a lot of money upgrading everything - intercooler, radiator, Dawes & needle, egr block, catch can, gauges etc etc. Then things just started braking/wearing out- as they do when cars get old, alternator, suspension sagged, clutch and heaps of other things, I just got sick of changing parts every second weekend on a car that I was worried was going to brake down on me every time I went into town (330ks each way) so upgraded to the 4.2 for a bit more reliability!


    The td has now got 222000 on it. So far all I’ve done is block the egr. Viscous fan seems ok and temp drop down pretty quickly once I back off. Went for a drive today - about 40 odd outside, sat at 80ks and temps were at 84ish, then sat on 100 for a bit and they got up to 95.

    How many liters of coolant does the td take and what ratio do you use?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I personally think you made a great decision. The Td42ti are simplistic. Pushrod overhead valves with timing gears. Easy to adjust tappets. Easy to service. Can extract plenty of power and reliability.
    Save up 450 bucks or so and throw her on the dyno.
    an overly rich Td42 can run hotter due to too much fuel.

    If you have an 3 inch turbo back exhaust
    Top mount intercooler (which you do from factory)

    The tuner can get the mixture perfect on 16psi with the stock HT18 turbo.

    I think stoichmetric will be around 20 to 18:1 on full boost.
    Thats basically good on fuel and not hot.
    The cruise mixtures will be far leaner so even better.

    In saying that though. I swear by this from what I seen.
    A stock Td42ti factory cooling system that is in new condition can tow up a hill on a 40 degree day and it will not overheat or even move to the 2/3rd mark of the factory gauge.


    If you require extra cooling because you are doing some extra heavy duty stuff then the following can help:
    1) Make sure all parts are new (Thermostat,Viscous Fan, Radiator, Pump and coolant)
    2)G35 Nissan Skyline Fan on original Viscous Hub (Thicker, Stronger and flows way more air through bench testing)
    or
    3)UFI United Fuel Injection Fan upgrade?
    4)More toyota silicone oil into the fan clutch to make it lock up more
    5)Thermostat With bypass difference (part numbers) TT2028-180 or DT79A(almost totally blocks bypass of coolant) The factory thermostat has to open 9mm to block the bypass at 100deg.
    TT2028-180 opens 5mm at 85deg. DT79A From Mazda Tribute Basically early model. TT2028-180 from Peaguot or Hyundai.

    Basically those thermostats are straight replacements. They virtually dont let any coolant bypass the radiator back into the engine. Just google it. There is more information


    Everyone is slightly different but I use 60 water / 40 coolant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drgtr View Post
    I personally think you made a great decision. The Td42ti are simplistic. Pushrod overhead valves with timing gears. Easy to adjust tappets. Easy to service. Can extract plenty of power and reliability.
    Save up 450 bucks or so and throw her on the dyno.
    an overly rich Td42 can run hotter due to too much fuel.

    If you have an 3 inch turbo back exhaust
    Top mount intercooler (which you do from factory)

    The tuner can get the mixture perfect on 16psi with the stock HT18 turbo.

    I think stoichmetric will be around 20 to 18:1 on full boost.
    Thats basically good on fuel and not hot.
    The cruise mixtures will be far leaner so even better.

    In saying that though. I swear by this from what I seen.
    A stock Td42ti factory cooling system that is in new condition can tow up a hill on a 40 degree day and it will not overheat or even move to the 2/3rd mark of the factory gauge.


    If you require extra cooling because you are doing some extra heavy duty stuff then the following can help:
    1) Make sure all parts are new (Thermostat,Viscous Fan, Radiator, Pump and coolant)
    2)G35 Nissan Skyline Fan on original Viscous Hub (Thicker, Stronger and flows way more air through bench testing)
    or
    3)UFI United Fuel Injection Fan upgrade?
    4)More toyota silicone oil into the fan clutch to make it lock up more
    5)Thermostat With bypass difference (part numbers) TT2028-180 or DT79A(almost totally blocks bypass of coolant) The factory thermostat has to open 9mm to block the bypass at 100deg.
    TT2028-180 opens 5mm at 85deg. DT79A From Mazda Tribute Basically early model. TT2028-180 from Peaguot or Hyundai.

    Basically those thermostats are straight replacements. They virtually dont let any coolant bypass the radiator back into the engine. Just google it. There is more information


    Everyone is slightly different but I use 60 water / 40 coolant.
    Thanks drgtr.

    There’s so much I want to do to the car but just getting the important stuff done first. When I’m in town next I’m going to get the tappets adjusted.
    Catch can is next along with diff breathers.

    Thanks for the detailed info drgtr. I’m not after any massive cooling mods as I generally don’t tow anything more then my small work trailer. I just need the cooling system to be in tip top shape, particularly this time of the year when we often get around 45*.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2006 4.2 tdi wagon
    TJM BullBar and bar work, Light bar & spotlights, Airtech snorkel, tradie rack, blocked egr, 2inch lift on 33s and a 3 inch exhaust to go with it all.
    Plenty more to come!

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpetersen View Post
    Went for a drive today - about 40 odd outside, sat at 80ks and temps were at 84ish, then sat on 100 for a bit and they got up to 95.

    Sounds much like mine, even when we are in full tour mode (approx 5 tonne including loaded Tvan).

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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