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Thread: Wont' boost EGTs up out of ideas?

  1. #11
    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    I got it off you amigo, so yeah, maybe the quality's not there ;-) A joke, I'm joking ;-)




    Dumb question. Are all the vacuum hoses the same size as in diameter?

    Dumb question. Is it easy to spot a split IC pipe? Do they blow out or just crack?

    Thanks for the help mudski, I appreciate it.
    Yeah its been a while since I sold those....

    If the pipe is split you would see oil residue. you have an aftermarket intercooler yeah?

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  3. #12
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    Clutch feels normal, brakes are always crap as in soft peddle that vanishes when you jump on it, which I think is normal for these things.
    Yeah thats normal. Put the TB48 brakes on coupled with braided hoses and you will go through the windscreen when you hit the brakes. Lol

  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Yeah its been a while since I sold those....

    If the pipe is split you would see oil residue. you have an aftermarket intercooler yeah?
    No, stock IC.
    ..

  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    Yeah thats normal. Put the TB48 brakes on coupled with braided hoses and you will go through the windscreen when you hit the brakes. Lol
    Really? The brakes are the weekest link in this vehicle, when I jump on the pedal, I almost go to the floor, the pedal is shite.
    ..

  6. #15
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Brought this first para comment of mine over from your noise thread mate.

    If CRD check that the VNT solenoid is still plugged in. CRD require it to be plugged in when Dawes/needle installed even though VNT solenoid is bypassed(vac).
    Also check vac lines as you said and at idle have a look and see if the actuator rod is in the up most position (lever hitting stop). Check to see if the actuator rod lock nut has not come loose an allowed the actuator rod length to increase. If too long eng will become very laggy and exhaust will get more of a throaty sound and higher EGTs. The witness line up marks on the the adjuster thumb wheel to actuator rod will indicate any movement. Best leave it alone if looks like it has not moved.

    Following up from mudski comment, with your stock IC, take it off have a good look around for any oil residue top and underneath(bottom), and especially both tanks where crimped. Of course you will have a good opportunity to check/inspect boost hoses, hot/cold sides.

    Vac hoses generally 3mm and boost side 4mm, think that is correct. I had Dawes, now use Tillix (both good) but the Tillix was installed by the guy that did my tune with ECU remap, the hose supplied by Tillix was 4mm and was slightly loose on the dampener (at vac take off) and this gave me poor spool/laggy until I got onto it.

    There is a way to check your VNT boost behavior by bypassing the manual boost control but caution is req'd when doing this. This is how I got onto my spool/boost problem but other investigations first.

    Your Dawes - is it the "Black" body and stenciled 3 Bar Racing? _ this is the one that is proven good IMO (also was supplied by mudski):

    https://dawes-devices.com/collection...patrol-and-vag

    Have you got a scan tool for clearing fault codes?

    There are some good comments above by the other guys so no need to repeat.

    Would not hurt disconnecting battery over night, but do not think ECU/limp fault is your problem at 15psi max boost.

    What gauge you using to monitor boost? Had an issue with VDO boost line brass ferrule at cooler failing and had a significant impact on boost but I run 26psi.

    Before you start pulling things down run the engine at idle and gradually unwind needle from the fully closed position and see if your noise stops.
    Last edited by Bidja; 16th February 2019 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Last two lines added
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Bidja For This Useful Post:

    10G (16th February 2019)

  8. #16
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    just another longshot idea . how is your air filter . if it is blocked it maybe causing or contributing to the issue . i remember a situation years ago when someone put a plastic bag down a mates snorkel . it caused him a bit of drama until it was found .

  9. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Brought this first para comment of mine over from your noise thread mate.

    If CRD check that the VNT solenoid is still plugged in. CRD require it to be plugged in when Dawes/needle installed even though VNT solenoid is bypassed(vac).
    Also check vac lines as you said and at idle have a look and see if the actuator rod is in the up most position (lever hitting stop). Check to see if the actuator rod lock nut has not come loose an allowed the actuator rod length to increase. If too long eng will become very laggy and exhaust will get more of a throaty sound and higher EGTs. The witness line up marks on the the adjuster thumb wheel to actuator rod will indicate any movement. Best leave it alone if looks like it has not moved.

    Following up from mudski comment, with your stock IC, take it off have a good look around for any oil residue top and underneath(bottom), and especially both tanks where crimped. Of course you will have a good opportunity to check/inspect boost hoses, hot/cold sides.

    Vac hoses generally 3mm and boost side 4mm, think that is correct. I had Dawes, now use Tillix (both good) but the Tillix was installed by the guy that did my tune with ECU remap, the hose supplied by Tillix was 4mm and was slightly loose on the dampener (at vac take off) and this gave me poor spool/laggy until I got onto it.

    There is a way to check your VNT boost behavior by bypassing the manual boost control but caution is req'd when doing this. This is how I got onto my spool/boost problem but other investigations first.

    Your Dawes - is it the "Black" body and stenciled 3 Bar Racing? _ this is the one that is proven good IMO (also was supplied by mudski):

    https://dawes-devices.com/collection...patrol-and-vag

    Have you got a scan tool for clearing fault codes?

    There are some good comments above by the other guys so no need to repeat.

    Would not hurt disconnecting battery over night, but do not think ECU/limp fault is your problem at 15psi max boost.

    What gauge you using to monitor boost? Had an issue with VDO boost line brass ferrule at cooler failing and had a significant impact on boost but I run 26psi.

    Before you start pulling things down run the engine at idle and gradually unwind needle from the fully closed position and see if your noise stops.
    Thanks for the help Bidja, much appreciated. My Dawse is a gold one, not like the 3Barracing one, got it from Mr Mudski about 12 months ago. I've got the torque app on my phone which I use for fault codes.

    Funny thing, this all started about the same time the CEL came up on the dash. I checked that and it was for the 0401 code telling me about the EGR gasses, EGR is blocked and I get this coming up from time to time. Can having the EGR blocked cause any problems like this????

    Can't remember the name of my boost gauge, but I checked it with the boost gauge in the Torque app and they were the same, so I'm happy that the gauge is OK.

    Disconnected the battery last night, I thought, why not.

    Thanks again.
    ..

  10. #18
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    it's on the check/replace list, thanks mate.
    ..

  11. #19
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    Thanks for the help Bidja, much appreciated. My Dawse is a gold one, not like the 3Barracing one, got it from Mr Mudski about 12 months ago. I've got the torque app on my phone which I use for fault codes.

    Funny thing, this all started about the same time the CEL came up on the dash. I checked that and it was for the 0401 code telling me about the EGR gasses, EGR is blocked and I get this coming up from time to time. Can having the EGR blocked cause any problems like this????

    Can't remember the name of my boost gauge, but I checked it with the boost gauge in the Torque app and they were the same, so I'm happy that the gauge is OK.

    Disconnected the battery last night, I thought, why not.

    Thanks again.
    Some prefer the brass body Dawes over 3 Bar Racing. Strip Dawes down, have a look at the ball and spring and see if the components are free of each other, clean it up and re-assemble. Do not play around with spring length.

    EGR blanking plate alone will not cause this boost problem. There is a resistor mod to stop CEL light coming on with EGR blocked or do a ECU remap $790 posted and turn EGR off (higher boost pressure lower EGTs).. Sort current problem first.

    You torque app, guess it clears trouble code properly.

    The EGR system consist of three parts: EGR valve, DPFE (differential pressure sensor EGR) and actuator solenoid.
    Check that the electrical connector to the VNT solenoid is plugged in....

    Code P0401 Meaning. ... This is likely due to faulty or clogged EGR valve or carbon buildup in the intake manifold or on the EGR temperature sensor.
    Can do a chemical clean to flush out crap in inlet manifold. Look for boost/vac leak issues first and check VNT actuator rod operation on turbo and the lever hitting stop

    FYI, I have my Dawes 3Bar Racing valve here, could work some thing out if you want to go that way, but I would not rush at that option.

    The reference to boost gauge (mechanical) was to eliminate any possible boost pressure leak at connections.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  12. #20
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    One thing - Before stripping down Dawes, use a marker and reference mark from adjuster to body (current set point) and the count the number of turns to disengage the threads as this will help to reset after clean.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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