-
24th August 2018, 09:05 PM
#1
2001 zd30 no power
Have searched the forum and can't find this particular problem so here goes.
Hi Guys,
Sorry this is a little long winded.
Excellent forum I've learnt a lot. I am semi retired farmer, earthmoving contractor/miner from Bindoon WA (some of the older members may remember Bindoon Rock that put our little town on the map) currently motorhoming around Oz with the patrol behind.
I have a 2001 GU ZD30 Patrol Wagon "The original grenade" bought secondhand with what looked like a new engine, Hmm and yes it went bang with the tiniest hole in No3 piston. I rebuilt it myself and blocked EGR, adjusted boost all was well for a little bit. Then limp mode raised it's ugly head and I took it to a Mechanic to read codes (I was newbie then) Throttle position sensor came up so after replacing sender and sensor he couldn't fault it. 50Ks into the 80ks home it's limping again so fitted Dawes valve, boost gauge, catch can cleaned MAF and all good for a long time.
Lost power while in Exmouth last year, very sluggish take off and wouldn't hold top gear and battling to hold 100kph.
A mechanic in Broome put his computer on it and the MAF was at fault, put the old one in from bang and away she went again.
When I rebuilt it originally I didn't know about the stretch head bolts and was a bit miffed when tensioning the head (with the old bolts - nothing in the manual about new ones) so she started using coolant and had an oil leak so I bought new bolt and gasket kit for a fix up.
In the meantime both my knees gave up the ghost so I got a pair of new titanium ones - no grease nipples.
Was in Bendigo in March and she starts limping on acceleration (mainly due to the cold I reckon ok when warm) so I sent it to the shop for head gasket replacement as the knees wouldn't let me do it myself. $4000 later they give it back and could hardly drive it out of the yard. Went around the corner and looked under the bonnet and the fitter had botched the plumbing of the dawes, I fixed that and readjusted the needle valve and she seemed ok. She went onto the trailer and got used in Coober Pedy running like a bucket of sh*t, Just like MAF gone again, replaced with new one still no power. Doesn't lose coolant though.
We are now in Darwin still having trouble and am searching the forum madly looking for a fix. MAF voltages are good, been cleaned, no faults showing, air cleaner good, fuel filter good, all vacuum hoses good and seem in the right places, boost is low 10psi max, motor very sluggish and only high idles to 3400rpm BUT if I leave a vacuum hose off it revs quicker and to 5000 without boost, no smoke just gutless all round. Oh power light comes on on the A/T switch when trying to take off and accelerate as well.
Any ideas please I haven't got much hair left to pull and I probably should have put this in a thread somewhere but new member.
Thanks in advance.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to MettersGU For This Useful Post:
Yeti's Beast (24th August 2018)
-
24th August 2018 09:05 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
-
24th August 2018, 10:44 PM
#2
Expert
Bad news about the car and I hope you find a quick and simple cheap solution. Reading through this has made me wonder a few things about my car.
Last weekend I noticed it’s used some coolant, this week it’s been running rough when cold. Omg I hope 1+1 doesn’t equal head gasket for me
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
-
25th August 2018, 09:13 AM
#3
Had the Patrol got the original intercooler on it mate?
Sent from my crapPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
25th August 2018, 09:49 AM
#4
yes thanks mudski original IC not leaking. If i suck on the vnt hose (with vacuum hose disconnected where it revs more freely) boost goes up no problem so I'm going over all the vacuum hoses to see if they put them on the wrong way round somewhere
-
-
25th August 2018, 05:16 PM
#5
Originally Posted by
MettersGU
yes thanks mudski original IC not leaking. If i suck on the vnt hose (with vacuum hose disconnected where it revs more freely) boost goes up no problem so I'm going over all the vacuum hoses to see if they put them on the wrong way round somewhere
2001 model, original IC and not leaking. I highly doubt it. These leak from new mate. Get it pressure tested to be 100% sure because a leaking IC, even a small leak will create all sorts of dramas.
Sent from my crapPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
25th August 2018, 05:55 PM
#6
Patrol God
My money is on the injector pump. @mudski can relate to this.
Issue with IP electrics can throw up all sorts of codes and symptoms.
Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
-
-
25th August 2018, 07:02 PM
#7
Originally Posted by
Hodge
My money is on the injector pump. @
mudski can relate to this.
Issue with IP electrics can throw up all sorts of codes and symptoms.
Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
The pump on mine just went south and the car would not even start. Could be the pump though, but, since the IC is the original, this would be the next port of call in my opinion. Get it leak tested at the least. Its unheard of that an original, OEM IC from 2002 is not leaking.
-
-
25th August 2018, 07:38 PM
#8
.........
IIRC symptoms mentioned on our old 2002 3.0L were its stock IC. I’m not a mechanics backside although agreed could be worth double checking just in case mate.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
26th August 2018, 11:30 AM
#9
Originally Posted by
mudski
2001 model, original IC and not leaking. I highly doubt it. These leak from new mate. Get it pressure tested to be 100% sure because a leaking IC, even a small leak will create all sorts of dramas.
Sent from my crapPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the replies Fellas.
I don't remember replacing it during rebuild ? but washed it out with petrol yesterday and the petrol didn't even leak, so should be right with it I think.
Played around with the dawes and needle valve yesterday and having a bit more boost but still have to put a leg out the door and kick to get it moving from standstill.
Last edited by MettersGU; 26th August 2018 at 11:40 AM.
-
-
26th August 2018, 07:24 PM
#10
hi mate,
Philippe from the other side of the planet (FRANCE).
When you play with the needle, from closed to opened, do you see the actuator arm moving from one end to the other ?
if you take the vacuum hose off, you have the VNT wide open, and no boost. Normal behaviour.
To close it and have boost, you need to have vacuum, so that VNT is closed, with arm touching the limiting screw.
Playing with needle valve should show you that the arm moves, and that you have a good vacuum in the hose.
-