OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 27

Thread: 2001 zd30 no power

  1. #1
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Somewhere in Oz
    Posts
    12
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    2001 zd30 no power

    Have searched the forum and can't find this particular problem so here goes.
    Hi Guys,
    Sorry this is a little long winded.
    Excellent forum I've learnt a lot. I am semi retired farmer, earthmoving contractor/miner from Bindoon WA (some of the older members may remember Bindoon Rock that put our little town on the map) currently motorhoming around Oz with the patrol behind.
    I have a 2001 GU ZD30 Patrol Wagon "The original grenade" bought secondhand with what looked like a new engine, Hmm and yes it went bang with the tiniest hole in No3 piston. I rebuilt it myself and blocked EGR, adjusted boost all was well for a little bit. Then limp mode raised it's ugly head and I took it to a Mechanic to read codes (I was newbie then) Throttle position sensor came up so after replacing sender and sensor he couldn't fault it. 50Ks into the 80ks home it's limping again so fitted Dawes valve, boost gauge, catch can cleaned MAF and all good for a long time.
    Lost power while in Exmouth last year, very sluggish take off and wouldn't hold top gear and battling to hold 100kph.
    A mechanic in Broome put his computer on it and the MAF was at fault, put the old one in from bang and away she went again.
    When I rebuilt it originally I didn't know about the stretch head bolts and was a bit miffed when tensioning the head (with the old bolts - nothing in the manual about new ones) so she started using coolant and had an oil leak so I bought new bolt and gasket kit for a fix up.
    In the meantime both my knees gave up the ghost so I got a pair of new titanium ones - no grease nipples.
    Was in Bendigo in March and she starts limping on acceleration (mainly due to the cold I reckon ok when warm) so I sent it to the shop for head gasket replacement as the knees wouldn't let me do it myself. $4000 later they give it back and could hardly drive it out of the yard. Went around the corner and looked under the bonnet and the fitter had botched the plumbing of the dawes, I fixed that and readjusted the needle valve and she seemed ok. She went onto the trailer and got used in Coober Pedy running like a bucket of sh*t, Just like MAF gone again, replaced with new one still no power. Doesn't lose coolant though.
    We are now in Darwin still having trouble and am searching the forum madly looking for a fix. MAF voltages are good, been cleaned, no faults showing, air cleaner good, fuel filter good, all vacuum hoses good and seem in the right places, boost is low 10psi max, motor very sluggish and only high idles to 3400rpm BUT if I leave a vacuum hose off it revs quicker and to 5000 without boost, no smoke just gutless all round. Oh power light comes on on the A/T switch when trying to take off and accelerate as well.
    Any ideas please I haven't got much hair left to pull and I probably should have put this in a thread somewhere but new member.
    Thanks in advance.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to MettersGU For This Useful Post:

    Yeti's Beast (24th August 2018)

  3. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  4. #2
    Expert Yeti's Beast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Jimboomba
    Posts
    366
    Thanks
    791
    Thanked 411 Times in 197 Posts
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Bad news about the car and I hope you find a quick and simple cheap solution. Reading through this has made me wonder a few things about my car.
    Last weekend I noticed it’s used some coolant, this week it’s been running rough when cold. Omg I hope 1+1 doesn’t equal head gasket for me


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  5. #3
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    15,612
    Thanks
    8,673
    Thanked 11,288 Times in 6,437 Posts
    Mentioned
    460 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Had the Patrol got the original intercooler on it mate?


    Sent from my crapPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #4
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Somewhere in Oz
    Posts
    12
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    yes thanks mudski original IC not leaking. If i suck on the vnt hose (with vacuum hose disconnected where it revs more freely) boost goes up no problem so I'm going over all the vacuum hoses to see if they put them on the wrong way round somewhere

  7. #5
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    15,612
    Thanks
    8,673
    Thanked 11,288 Times in 6,437 Posts
    Mentioned
    460 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by MettersGU View Post
    yes thanks mudski original IC not leaking. If i suck on the vnt hose (with vacuum hose disconnected where it revs more freely) boost goes up no problem so I'm going over all the vacuum hoses to see if they put them on the wrong way round somewhere
    2001 model, original IC and not leaking. I highly doubt it. These leak from new mate. Get it pressure tested to be 100% sure because a leaking IC, even a small leak will create all sorts of dramas.


    Sent from my crapPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #6
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,606
    Thanks
    5,708
    Thanked 6,110 Times in 3,143 Posts
    Mentioned
    175 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    My money is on the injector pump. @mudski can relate to this.
    Issue with IP electrics can throw up all sorts of codes and symptoms.

    Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
    2005 TD42TI

  9. #7
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    15,612
    Thanks
    8,673
    Thanked 11,288 Times in 6,437 Posts
    Mentioned
    460 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Hodge View Post
    My money is on the injector pump. @mudski can relate to this.
    Issue with IP electrics can throw up all sorts of codes and symptoms.

    Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
    The pump on mine just went south and the car would not even start. Could be the pump though, but, since the IC is the original, this would be the next port of call in my opinion. Get it leak tested at the least. Its unheard of that an original, OEM IC from 2002 is not leaking.

  10. #8
    ......... MB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Yarra Valley
    Posts
    8,683
    Thanks
    22,940
    Thanked 11,315 Times in 4,988 Posts
    Mentioned
    472 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    IIRC symptoms mentioned on our old 2002 3.0L were its stock IC. I’m not a mechanics backside although agreed could be worth double checking just in case mate.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #9
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Somewhere in Oz
    Posts
    12
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    2001 model, original IC and not leaking. I highly doubt it. These leak from new mate. Get it pressure tested to be 100% sure because a leaking IC, even a small leak will create all sorts of dramas.


    Sent from my crapPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the replies Fellas.

    I don't remember replacing it during rebuild ? but washed it out with petrol yesterday and the petrol didn't even leak, so should be right with it I think.

    Played around with the dawes and needle valve yesterday and having a bit more boost but still have to put a leg out the door and kick to get it moving from standstill.
    Last edited by MettersGU; 26th August 2018 at 11:40 AM.

  12. #10
    Beginner
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    25
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    hi mate,
    Philippe from the other side of the planet (FRANCE).

    When you play with the needle, from closed to opened, do you see the actuator arm moving from one end to the other ?

    if you take the vacuum hose off, you have the VNT wide open, and no boost. Normal behaviour.

    To close it and have boost, you need to have vacuum, so that VNT is closed, with arm touching the limiting screw.

    Playing with needle valve should show you that the arm moves, and that you have a good vacuum in the hose.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •