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12th June 2017, 07:52 PM
#1
Beginner
Triple battery set up question.
Hi all I currently have a dual battery setup with out a dc-dc or bd-dc . I have a portable battery set up at pictured with a Projecta Intelli-Charge DC to DC. My question is would it be better to conect the battery box up to the starter battery or the second battery?
Would I be thinking right that it would be better to connect it to the starter battery as it would charge quicker than connecting to the second battery especially if the second battery wasn't fully charged?
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TIA
2006 GU IV TD42TI 19X XXXkm,Turbosmart Turbo tuned(14psi),Boost gauge,K&N Airfilter,305/70r/17 Maxxis Bighorn,5" 45mm Adjust T D Sus,3" Exhaust ,JVC CD/DVD with Polk Audio,Warn XD9000 Winch,ARB Air Compressor, Chassis Rock Sliders,Dual Batteries,w/- IBS Battery Monitor System, Rhino Alloy Roof Rack. Mods to come, rear bar, new exhaust, rear drawers ect
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12th June 2017 07:52 PM
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12th June 2017, 09:02 PM
#2
Travelling Podologist
Yes connect it to the starter battery.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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13th June 2017, 07:33 AM
#3
Legendary
if you have power to the back does it realy matter as you dont need to run extra wire to back
and as it isnt used when driving it will charge happily
isnt slower charge better than fast charge
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13th June 2017, 10:56 AM
#4
I am he, fear me
If you are talking about with the engine running IE there is an Alternator supply then it won't matter a rats which battery as your DC DC charger will 'see' the Alternator.
If you are talking about engine stopped and you have no battery management or isolator it won't matter a rats which battery as your third battery DC DC charger will drain them both somewhat equally
If you are talking about engine stopped and you have a battery manager or isolator that disconnects the cranker if the aux goes low then connect it to the Aux not the Cranker as the DC DC charger on your third battery will drain whichever one it is connected too.
No matter what you do the 3rd Battery can only ever charge at the max of the Projecta device IE 7 amps or 10 amps or whatever model you have so the state of charge of the other batteries won't have any noticeable affect when the Alternator is running UNLESS you have a large capacity unit (say above 25 amps)
Last edited by the evil twin; 13th June 2017 at 11:05 AM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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bushnbash (13th June 2017)
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13th June 2017, 09:19 PM
#5
Beginner
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
If you are talking about with the engine running IE there is an Alternator supply then it won't matter a rats which battery as your DC DC charger will 'see' the Alternator.
If you are talking about engine stopped and you have no battery management or isolator it won't matter a rats which battery as your third battery DC DC charger will drain them both somewhat equally
If you are talking about engine stopped and you have a battery manager or isolator that disconnects the cranker if the aux goes low then connect it to the Aux not the Cranker as the DC DC charger on your third battery will drain whichever one it is connected too.
No matter what you do the 3rd Battery can only ever charge at the max of the Projecta device IE 7 amps or 10 amps or whatever model you have so the state of charge of the other batteries won't have any noticeable affect when the Alternator is running UNLESS you have a large capacity unit (say above 25 amps)
Sorry about my lack of knowledge and probably stupid analysis on how I think it would work but hear goes.............
Yes the 3rd battery has a PROJECTA IDC25 DC/DC 25amp wired into the battery box.
There is also a IBS Battery Monitor System and also a big on/off dial under the bonnet, which I was told by the previous owner was to be used when using the winch.
I was thinking that if the third battery was connected to the starter battery it would get a better charge then being connected to the second battery.
Especially if i had been camping for a few days and the fridge was running off the 2nd battery and it was at say 50%(12.2v) . If the 3rd battery was connected to the 2nd battery wouldn't it have to wait until the second battery got charged enough before it would start drawing power from the 2nd battery? or would the 3rd battery draw all the power and the 2nd battery would not charge to it cappacity until the 3rd battery was fully charged. Thanks for any imput as I can quite get my head around it.
Last edited by bushnbash; 13th June 2017 at 09:26 PM.
2006 GU IV TD42TI 19X XXXkm,Turbosmart Turbo tuned(14psi),Boost gauge,K&N Airfilter,305/70r/17 Maxxis Bighorn,5" 45mm Adjust T D Sus,3" Exhaust ,JVC CD/DVD with Polk Audio,Warn XD9000 Winch,ARB Air Compressor, Chassis Rock Sliders,Dual Batteries,w/- IBS Battery Monitor System, Rhino Alloy Roof Rack. Mods to come, rear bar, new exhaust, rear drawers ect
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14th June 2017, 11:02 AM
#6
I am he, fear me
The 'big on/off dial' is probably a Cole Hersey switch.
Most people use one to connect the Aux battery in parallel with the Cranker for winching by bypassing the IBS system (as the IBS will not allow high current connection between batteries).
As for what charges what...
When you connect batteries in parallel (E.G. your 3rd battery to the Aux or Cranker) they appear to be just '1 big battery' as far as the charging source.
Unless you have a system such as IBS it will mean no battery has any priority over another no matter whether one is say 50% and the other say 75%.
If there is no charging source and you connect a DC/DC device (like your 3rd battery) to your 50% depleted Aux your 3rd battery at 75% will continue to deplete your Aux because that is what DC/DC devices do (take a lower DC voltage and step it up).
If you didn't have the DC/Dc device the lower battery (in this scenario the Aux) would actually 'steal' charge from the higher battery until they equalise
If a charging source becomes available, lets say you run the engine to turn the Alternator, then both batteries will begin to charge.
If there was no DC/DC they would charge at the individual Battery Charge Acceptance rate (C.A.R.) until they hit the max available current from the source.
Because you have a DC/DC on the 3rd battery it changes the scenario slightly as it 'MAY' steal some of the Aux battery share depending on lots of factors.
Also don't get trapped by the difference between Battery Isolators and Battery Managers.
Most Battery Managers are actually only Isolators IE they disconnect (isolate) one or more batteries to prevent a load (fridge or whatever) discharging them all.
These are really isolators and calling them a Manager is just a sales pitch.
A true Battery manager is quite complex and expensive and is actually capable of priority charging and load shedding etc.
Bottom line is no battery in parallel with another will 'wait' for the other to charge first assuming all other things are equal.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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