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Thread: Mudski GU Build Thread

  1. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    DT79A Dayco.
    SPECS

    Flange diameter: 54mm
    Height: 62mm
    Flange to base: 40mm
    Vent valve: 29mm
    Celsius: 82°C
    Fahrenheit: 180°F
    Thanks Mark. I just did a quick measure up of the Tridon unit I have that fits the chev - it runs 2 of these, and the actual vent valve is only 14mm dia. Doing the numbers, with two thermostats open, the combined orifice is 308mm2. the TD is 630mm2. Something does not look right. The area i am looking at is the copper plunger to its seat - is that correct? I am currently running the 182 degF units, but have 160DegF units in hand to try some time down the track. If I looked at this by proportion, engine size V orifice, the chev needs something like 975mm2 combined, which equates to an orifice opening of roughly 25mm x 2 thermostats. Is this right ?

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  3. #522
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    Spoke with a technical sales guy at dayco today, very helpful, but can not assist with a higher flowrate unit of the dimensions I have for the tridon. I have sent tridon an email and will if they can offer something, but the unit I have is claimed to be their 'hi flo' design - buggered if I can see how it can handle 130GPN thru 2 x 16mm orifices.

  4. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeeBee View Post
    Thanks Mark. I just did a quick measure up of the Tridon unit I have that fits the chev - it runs 2 of these, and the actual vent valve is only 14mm dia. Doing the numbers, with two thermostats open, the combined orifice is 308mm2. the TD is 630mm2. Something does not look right. The area i am looking at is the copper plunger to its seat - is that correct? I am currently running the 182 degF units, but have 160DegF units in hand to try some time down the track. If I looked at this by proportion, engine size V orifice, the chev needs something like 975mm2 combined, which equates to an orifice opening of roughly 25mm x 2 thermostats. Is this right ?
    Sorry man, what you are talking about has literally flown right over the top of my head. All I know is, the OEM Nissan Stat shuts off flow to the rad for too long, and by the time the old kettle's getting a bit too warm the stat will open the flow too the rad, but too late in the process. This stat is longer, and will force more water flow through the radiator earlier in the boiling process. Theoretically giving the motor a better chance of staying cooler and giving more stable temps. From what I have read and the few I have now spoken too that use this stat swear by it.

    I have nothing to lose and a lot to gain.

  5. #524
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    Thanks mark, yes this is a strategy I think I will employ on mine if I cant keep it cool.I am running 88 deg Stats but also have 71 deg STATs in hand. I know the engine will heat the water up, regardless of the STAT opening, simple thermodynamics, but by transferring the water thru the radiator earlier it may take the edge off the spike and run away temps i have seem in low range/high rpm stuff. Still yet to hear from Tridon about a larger orifice unit of the same size as the TT2000 units I have

  6. #525
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    Watching with keen interest Markie, looks like some very promising theories there, good luck . .

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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    mudski (10th October 2020)

  8. #526
    Patrol Guru matfew's Avatar
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    What fan you running mark?
    When I done the partial rebuild on my cooling system I found the front thermostat housing corroded badly. Thanks to our glorious leader having one off his old block with the hole in the side I replaced it with a perfect one.

    Also new radiator. Dt79a thermostat with the circlip or might of been 2 under it.

    Quickaz fan and on the beech in tassie (first beech and driving I had done in it) was perfect.

    But then I followed rosco through a mudhole and clogged up radiator for the next beech run. Just ask Darren how that went lol.


    But overall I think the quickaz fan made all the difference. Like the thermostat it's kind of pre-empts the situation as the fan hub never fully releases. It's always drawing some air. Is a bit noisy when on the loud pedal but 100% worth it in my eyes

    Sent from my BV9800Pro using Tapatalk

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    Rossco (10th October 2020)

  10. #527
    Patrol Guru matfew's Avatar
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    Sorry I'm reading this thread backwards haha.

    Old man recently bought a 2015 5.0ltr mustang and with some Web research found they have an issue of the oil cooler corroding and mixing water with oil. Bye bye $20k motor. So he found a mob that made a bypass plate and aftermarket oil cooler.

    Took him 3 days to install as gotta take while front of car apart to get to the coolant lines. He wanted to remove the lines totally for 1 litres failure point. He's a bit anal like that. Very different to me lmao.



    Anyways.... The cooler he got had a thermostat in it. I know the coolers @PeeBee and @MB run a very efficient cooler but don't have a thermostat. Def need to control the temps not just cool it.

    I have thought about it on mine. I have a spare temp sensor for redarc gauge so might monitor it and see if it needs something. I need rego first though....

    Sent from my BV9800Pro using Tapatalk

  11. #528
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    Hey Matty, interesting info for suure. I recognise the oil temp points you make. Whats a little bit different with the Chev and the finned barrel cooler is that the difference in the 'system is the oil still reaches 90 degC inside the engine. The Chev runs warm for a rang of rrasons, but the trick is the efficiency of the heat transfer. the last thing I need is a swirling mass of lubricant at 120 degC or so and the radiator has to deal with this to some degree as well if you think about it. What I find is the oil quickly gets to temperature, and I strip 40-50 degC off that depending on road speed. At crawl speed that is maybe 20 degC temp difference across the cooler - I have probes on IN and OUT. 90 DegC is a healthy temp from what I understand, and its fluid enough to do its lubrication and not too hot to start fuming or getting close to breaking down. I know @MB tried a thermostatic valve with poor results. This set up works really well for me and I use it on the engine, the hydraulic winch and as an aux radiator for the Interchiller as well. What I like about it is the internal fluid contact fins and the multitude of external radiator fins that can be easily cleaned in the field, unlike a standard radiator core as you found out.

  12. #529
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    Mudski GU Build Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by matfew View Post
    What fan you running mark?
    When I done the partial rebuild on my cooling system I found the front thermostat housing corroded badly. Thanks to our glorious leader having one off his old block with the hole in the side I replaced it with a perfect one.

    Also new radiator. Dt79a thermostat with the circlip or might of been 2 under it.

    Quickaz fan and on the beech in tassie (first beech and driving I had done in it) was perfect.

    But then I followed rosco through a mudhole and clogged up radiator for the next beech run. Just ask Darren how that went lol.


    But overall I think the quickaz fan made all the difference. Like the thermostat it's kind of pre-empts the situation as the fan hub never fully releases. It's always drawing some air. Is a bit noisy when on the loud pedal but 100% worth it in my eyes

    Sent from my BV9800Pro using Tapatalk
    Running the G35 fan mate. It’s pulls some serious air. Especially when the viscous hub is 100% locked. lol. I’ve put one circlip under the DT79a stat.
    IMG_3545.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by mudski; 10th October 2020 at 09:14 PM.

  13. #530
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    Me being me. I like to have things right. So I removed the lower stat housing, drilled and tapped the sensor port out to 1/4 npt so the Redarc sensor would screw right in without the need for an adaptor.
    IMG_3544.jpg


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    Cremulator (11th October 2020)

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