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I'm new to this forum and this is my very first post and, unfortunately it's about an issue.
I've got a 97 model GQ with RD28T in it. I bought it earlier this year and, after a while, it developed a problem with loosing coolant internally and building up the pressure in the cooling system.
After some time of troubleshooting I decided to take the head off.
Fast forward a few months and the new, aftermarket head is on as well as new valves, water pump, and the timing belt.
I made sure that the engine was at BDC before removing anything. Once I installed the timing belt I made sure that the markings on the IP, camshaft and crankshaft sprockets lined up as per the service manual. I even turned the engine over a few times manually to make sure the valves are clear of the pistons.
When I tried to start the car, it cranked but wouldn't start. It seems like only one cylinder is firing as after a while there appears to be a bit of smoke in the garage but the thing won't start. This video shows the way it cranks: https://www.dropbox.com/s/cpsp9jh0he..._1465.MOV?dl=0
I tried bleeding the fuel system and even removed the glow plugs and then cranked the engine for a while to see if there is diesel mist coming out. It all appears to be coming out in the correct firing order. Please refer to the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z3s39j4jv5..._1457.MOV?dl=0
I then put the plugs back in and connected everything up and confirmed that there is power going to them.
With the timing belt cover removed, I can see that the timing marks on the IP and the camshaft sprockets are lining up as per the attached pics.
Another thing, I noticed that the injector 1 has a needle lift sensor but I couldn't find anywhere to connect it so the plug is just hanging loose not connected to anything. It is possible that the previous owner might have used the GU injectors but the car was happily running with the same injectors before I took the head off. The thing is that I can't remember if the needle lift sensor plug was connected to anything before the work was done.
I'm at a point where I've exhausted my rather limited amount of knowledge of diesel engines and about to give up on trying to resolve this myself.
I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction or recommend someone in Adelaide who knows a bit about these engines that might be able to fix this for me. I'm happy to tow the car to wherever it needs to go to get this sorted.
Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated.
Hello and welcome to the forum. If after others aren't able to help, are you totally confident that the crank was in the right position. The marks are a mongrel to see, due to parrallax error. You have to hang upside down or grab a mirror to check that it is ok. I changed the timing belt on my RB30 (same block as the RD28) and it was running like a dog, so had to strip it down and move the crank one space.
I wouldn't say I'm a 100 percent sure but I made sure the 3 timing marks (IP, Camshaft and crankshaft) were correctly aligned before I took the head off. The harmonic balancer slot key was pointing downwards. While the head was off I never moved the crankshaft so, when I put the new head on, the timing belt installation was easy as the timing marks lined up fine. Once the timing belt was installed, I did turn the engine manually a few times to ensure the pistons are not touching the valves.
Even in case that the timing is out at the crankshaft, it would be by one tooth which I wouldn't think would be a cause for the engine not to start. Maybe it t would run a bit rough but I would hope it would be able to start.
Hi!
Try to check the injection moment.
There is a 2 marks. 1st on the top of the body of the fuel pump (on the top of flange) and 2nd on the mount place on the engine.
I'll make a photo these evening for you.
By default, they are should be opposite each other.
I'm Alexander and I'm the happiest owner of GQ Nissan Safari in the whole Central Asia
i cant watch the video but had a similar prob with a vw..... injector pump was out one full turn. it was not fun nor easy to get to and the actual instructions were line it up and try if it doesn't work rotate it a full turn. stupid vw $^%&*#$*(
Here is the photo.
My marks are not opposit each other, but its because of bad fuel here.
So, try to move the pump +/- 4 mm from the zero point, with 0,5 mm or 1 mm step.
Pump moving close to block its a little earlier inj moment, far from block is a little later inj moment.
could it be something as simple as an electrical connector
Id be checking the electrical side of things seeing you are that confident
with everything else,,,,,,,,,Just a thought.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Thank you all for the suggestions and all the help. As I don't have much time to play around with this, I've decided to take the car to a local mechanic.
As it turns out I bought the wrong head, falsely thinking that the car has hydraulic lifters whereas it actually has solid ones. So, now I'm trying to avoid having to buy another head so I'm hoping that my current camshaft will work with new hydraulic lifters that I'm planning to buy.
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