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25th June 2023, 05:28 PM
#11
Daily Lurker
Originally Posted by
Maxhead
Yes sorry I’m with ya now! I’m overthinking the idea.
Small insulated shed and temperature controlled heat matt just be work spot on.
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Winner good luck mate!
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25th June 2023 05:28 PM
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25th June 2023, 07:43 PM
#12
Daily Lurker
One thing I thought to.mention, you said you need to consider cable length etc, I figured from a cost perspective but also there is the voltage drop over distance, I'm sure an extra 20m won't have that much effect but might pay to get an elec to advise
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25th June 2023, 10:54 PM
#13
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26th June 2023, 10:12 AM
#14
Patrol Freak
Have a look at what the industry does. Get some advice (even from the battery supplier). Don't be Robinson Crusoe!
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26th June 2023, 02:26 PM
#15
Everyone's pretty well covered it, but I'll chuck my 2cents in.
I'd go a small concrete slab and brick/block bunding for a couple of courses, then light timber or steel frame. Can double-skin it with corrugate (cladding and lining) and fill wall with whatever insulation. expol, glass batts, foam, hemp, whatever.
The BMS should control charging temps, solar panels tend to over-volt in the cold.
...and if you do end up with thermal runaway then temps all become irrelevant reallly quick.
Originally Posted by
rusty_nail
One thing I thought to.mention, you said you need to consider cable length etc, I figured from a cost perspective but also there is the voltage drop over distance, I'm sure an extra 20m won't have that much effect but might pay to get an elec to advise
There are plenty of tables/calculators available online to gauge cable for distance. And the cable supplier should have them on-hand.
48V is pretty copper-friendly, though it's always better to do the long cable runs at higher voltage, ie, put the inverter close to the battery and run 240VAC over the gap, if possible.
6kW @ 48VDC is 125A which would generally be serviced by 2x25-35mm cable and your resistance is going to be in the order of 0.5R/km, so negligible.
6kW @ 250VAC is 25A wich will be serviced by 2c+e 6mm TPS. which if anything like NZ, is going to cost about 1/10th the DC cable.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/w...ges-d_419.html
- 1990 LWB Safari flatdeck, TD42 -
- 1988 LWB 7-seat Safari, TD42 -
1989 LWB 5-Seat, TD42
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26th June 2023, 04:37 PM
#16
The master farter
Originally Posted by
mihit
Everyone's pretty well covered it, but I'll chuck my 2cents in.
I'd go a small concrete slab and brick/block bunding for a couple of courses, then light timber or steel frame. Can double-skin it with corrugate (cladding and lining) and fill wall with whatever insulation. expol, glass batts, foam, hemp, whatever.
I do this but a full course of brick all the way up, double brick would be even better for insulation reasons, and a steel frame for the roof and then insulate the roof. I wouldn't use timber at all if I were to do it.
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27th June 2023, 11:23 AM
#17
Patrol Freak
Use besser blocks. Cheap to buy and quick to lay.
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27th June 2023, 12:44 PM
#18
Originally Posted by
mudski
I wouldn't use timber at all if I were to do it.
Termites, or...???
- 1990 LWB Safari flatdeck, TD42 -
- 1988 LWB 7-seat Safari, TD42 -
1989 LWB 5-Seat, TD42
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27th June 2023, 04:44 PM
#19
The master farter
Originally Posted by
mihit
Termites, or...???
No its just an easier ignition point. Metal is wee bit harder to burn than timber. Its probably a null point anyway, but if the effort was to go into building a structure for reasons as a barrier between batteries and the building it's powering, I'd do the roof frame in steel.
Last edited by mudski; 27th June 2023 at 04:54 PM.
Reason: gramaaarrrr
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27th June 2023, 11:15 PM
#20
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