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10th July 2022, 08:29 PM
#1
Low boost high egts after high boost low egts
I did some repairs to my patrol (2001 gu zd30 di) it had low egts but insanely high boost (spiked to 28psi and then cut out to 0) replaced vac lines replaced fuel filter and replaced maf and fixed the intake hose to the turbo (it had a split in it). But now I'm getting max 8psi boost and then cuts out after cruising at 100 for about 5 seconds and just sits at 0 before I take my foot of then back on and we repeat the process and the egts head north of 600 degrees. Vacuum is good at about 95 kpa. Anybody got any ideas?
Mods. egr blocked with 8mm hole, 3" exhaust, catch can, aftermarket intercooler, 33" tyres
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10th July 2022 08:29 PM
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10th July 2022, 08:59 PM
#2
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10th July 2022, 10:34 PM
#3
Moderator
The EGTs are up because the boost is Low. Traditionally you'd up the Boost to reduce the EGTs.
You say you had a split intake hose? Pre Turbo? POST air Filter?
It would seem that something you have done, swapped, changed, repaired may not be fitted correctly mate would be my guess?
Where is the Boost being measured from?
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Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
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11th July 2022, 08:17 AM
#4
The master farter
Thats pretty much how the Old DI ZD30's run. Not very well. Get rid of the factory boost control solenoid and run a manual boost gauge to limit the boost and a needle valve to control the turbo spool rate and be done with it. Plenty of "how too's" on the net available. Or ask here for help.
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11th July 2022, 02:35 PM
#5
Patrol Freak
[QUOTE=Browndogblue;833386 Vacuum is good at about 95 kpa. [/QUOTE]
Where did you measure this vacuum, ie 95kPa (28"Hg) which is what I expect @ vac source. In your case guess from under IC at front?
Check,@ idle the VNT actuator rod should be lifted up and lever should be resting against the vane limit stop screw?
Same @ idle pull vac hose off actuator and the rod should drop?
Genuine replacement MAF sensor and connected correctly?
Best show a pic of the boost control setup (or diagram).
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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11th July 2022, 08:51 PM
#6
Vac measured under intercooler and at boost solenoid and when measured at turbo is 60-70 kpa from memory
Yeah split in hose was just before turbo and have double and triple checked everything is back together and in right spot yep turbo is against stop and when I take vac line off it drops. Have aftermarket maf and oem maf both doing the same thing. this is why it's driving me crazy I've got no power up hill egts spike and then temp gauge follows especially up the range.
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11th July 2022, 08:53 PM
#7
Boost gauge is between i/c and throttle body
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11th July 2022, 09:08 PM
#8
Patrol Freak
Ok I agree with @mudski, it is a well known fact that ZD30 DI has poor boost control using the stock ECU/Vacsol operation, so also suggest install manual boost control (Dawes or Tillix with a needle valve). Can also improve on this by adding another needle valve downsteam of the boost controller (Dawes or Tillix).
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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12th July 2022, 08:10 AM
#9
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Browndogblue
Vac measured under intercooler and at boost solenoid and when measured at turbo is 60-70 kpa from memory
Yeah split in hose was just before turbo and have double and triple checked everything is back together and in right spot yep turbo is against stop and when I take vac line off it drops. Have aftermarket maf and oem maf both doing the same thing. this is why it's driving me crazy I've got no power up hill egts spike and then temp gauge follows especially up the range.
Whats the condition of the intercooler? It is original? Does it have any oil deposits on it? Especially on the underside. If yes to the last two Q's. Replace it. It will be leaking, there for thats where your boost pressure is going.
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12th July 2022, 12:24 PM
#10
Originally Posted by
MudRunnerTD
The EGTs are up because the boost is Low. Traditionally you'd up the Boost to reduce the EGTs.
You say you had a split intake hose? Pre Turbo? POST air Filter?
It would seem that something you have done, swapped, changed, repaired may not be fitted correctly mate would be my guess?
Where is the Boost being measured from?
Hey Darren, I dont understand this. I would have thought higher boost would add more air, better combustion of the given fuel, which generates more energy and thus more heat - much like less air, lower combustion potential, lower energy, less heat? What am I getting cocked up?
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