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11th January 2022, 12:46 AM
#10151
Patrol God
51286430-8716-4E19-958F-EA5C989ACE94.jpeg
Fitted the new twin wheel carrier, one wheel rack to go
2003 gu3 td42tdi sold 😞 bloody gvm towing crap. Bt50 3500kg gvm.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Stropp For This Useful Post:
MB (11th January 2022), mudnut (11th January 2022)
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11th January 2022 12:46 AM
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12th January 2022, 08:27 PM
#10152
Administrator
Sounds simple but I just replaced my 90 elbow from turbo to IC as I noticed a split in it.
Simple job but no.
I think we need to document the procedures sometimes on our mods as I forgot on my original install that that pipe twists there, that join down the line comes off to do that, etc.
I had a flash back from my troubleshooting days of the turbo issue I had and remembered the sequence of removal and life was good lol
All good now but if I didn’t remember that sequence then god help someone else doing this!
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to AB For This Useful Post:
Cremulator (12th January 2022), Hodge (12th January 2022), MB (12th January 2022), Stropp (18th January 2022)
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12th January 2022, 09:22 PM
#10153
.........
Apologies Bro, that Swiss Army knife for Mia’s Chrissy Prez was a BAD idea
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12th January 2022, 10:08 PM
#10154
Travelling Podologist
During our last few weeks travelling we had no hot water. Not exactly a crisis, but MrsTea has been accustomed to turning on a tap for hot water to wash up with. Putting the billy on works but is far less convenient. The tempering valve assembly of our engine heated hot water system needed replacing. The parts probably could have been bought in Australia, but direct replacement from the hot water service's manufacturer in the UK would save a plumbing nightmare in limited space. As it was, the entire kitchen needed to be removed from the canopy to give access to remove part of the insulation box in which the hot water service is. All very well but it took ages. I knew I had built everything to come apart if necessary but that was 10 years ago & working out what needed to come apart & in what order was a 3 dimensional jigsaw & took several hours of trial & error. Once apart, replacing the tempering valve & pressure relief valve assembly was pretty straight forward, but I learned that I really hadn't needed the entire assembly, but couldn't have known that until everything was apart. So have replaced the lot with the new assembly (about $200 total) & now have a spare assembly should the same issue arise in the future). Putting everything back was far quicker than dismantling, & to my surprise everything went back in & fitted well - not bad for a farmshed build which followed the 'make it up as you go along'' philosophy.
It was a job that had haunted the early hours of my mornings for a while, but really the hardest part was starting. Once that hurdle was over the rest was relatively simple. I have to say that I was actually quite impressed with my 'design skills'.
For newer forum members unfamiliar with our set up - what we have is 22 litre marine calorifier - essentially a donkey boiler in an insulated copper tank with engine coolant system extended into the canopy, where it runs through a coil inside the tank & heats fresh water to the same temperature as the engine coolant. The tempering valve automatically adds cold water according to the temperature set with an adjusting knob, meaning we can adjust output temperature for say washing up or hair washing or showering. It's a great system & the second vehicle we have used this style of hws in. From cold 20 to 30 minutes driving gives hot enough water for a shower, we always have hot water on arrival at a camp & it stays hot for up to 3 days without needing to run the engine. (If we stay longer we generally have a camp fire & the billy is always on). It also has a 240v 1000w electric element in the tank, but we have only ever used that once just to see how well it worked.
Anyway, all back together, & no longer leaking. Hopefully another 10 years before I need to look at it again!
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
AB (13th January 2022), Dasa (13th January 2022), MB (12th January 2022), mudnut (13th January 2022), pearcey (13th January 2022), Stropp (18th January 2022), Touses (13th January 2022)
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14th January 2022, 05:18 PM
#10155
Legendary
When I got the new winch (runva) it came with a thinble. I prefer to use my old hook which meant I needed a hammerlock, easy not..
Being the impatient dick that I sometimes am, I was meant to swap out the fairlead from the old faded one to a new shiny runva one. Instead I fitted the hammerlock and hook, took up the slack on the rope and job done, until the old fairlead was staring me straight in the face. F@#k..
Is it possible to remove and refit the hammerlock. I don't think I can as the pin locks in with a spring load collar..
Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk
12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
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14th January 2022, 06:00 PM
#10156
The 747
Unwind all the rope off the drum and re attach it from the drum end.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Winnie For This Useful Post:
jay see (14th January 2022), Stropp (18th January 2022)
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14th January 2022, 07:21 PM
#10157
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Winnie
Unwind all the rope off the drum and re attach it from the drum end.
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Cheers Winnie..
Yep, I can do that, but it will have to be a day when I can be f@#ked doing it.
Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk
12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
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14th January 2022, 08:42 PM
#10158
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
jay see
When I got the new winch (runva) it came with a thinble. I prefer to use my old hook which meant I needed a hammerlock, easy not..
Being the impatient dick that I sometimes am, I was meant to swap out the fairlead from the old faded one to a new shiny runva one. Instead I fitted the hammerlock and hook, took up the slack on the rope and job done, until the old fairlead was staring me straight in the face. F@#k..
Is it possible to remove and refit the hammerlock. I don't think I can as the pin locks in with a spring load collar..
Sent from my CPH1921 using Tapatalk
You can re-use them. Just make sure you push the pin through in the direction the arrow indicates on the hammer lock. There is usually an arrow on the locking collar in the middle of the hammer lock.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to nissannewby For This Useful Post:
jay see (14th January 2022), MB (18th January 2022)
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18th January 2022, 11:17 AM
#10159
Took the barge down to the a/c joint, it had lost 500g of gas, out of 1.2kg, so looks like a fitting is not on right or a hose connection decided to leak or whatever - who knows. Got them to add for goo to see if they can clogg up the hole, on the basis it will go back in on say may/june when its less busy for them. Bit annoyed, but take it on the chin I guess.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to PeeBee For This Useful Post:
MB (18th January 2022), Stropp (18th January 2022)
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18th January 2022, 12:08 PM
#10160
Patrol Freak
They can put a UV dye in with the gas and any leak, however small, can be seen with a black light.
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