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22nd November 2020, 08:07 PM
#11
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Question is at warm start up, does it stiil need to crank for several seconds before she starts up.
Yes. Not as long as cold start, but yes, it takes about 3 seconds crank to start.
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Understand that CRD will not start until all injectors obtain a even fuel pressure of approx 140MPa (20,000psi).
How does the engine know what the pressure in different cylinders is? What is this witchcraft?
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Need for an SME to conduct a return fuel leaking test.
Sorry what is this SME?
Originally Posted by
Bidja
May need to consider this.
I will thank you.
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22nd November 2020 08:07 PM
# ADS
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22nd November 2020, 08:45 PM
#12
Patrol Freak
@poddy All good mate, SME is a Subject Matter Expert (eg: workshop that do Diesel fuel injector service / rebuild / repair and that have the tools and test equipment to check the injector serviceability.
Ring around local area, not sure where you are as someone around the forum may recommend w/shop.
Look not sure on injector sensors, but imagine a sensor would send signal back to ECU at time when same pressures are achieved in all injectors and initiate start. Others with more smarts may add.
For Info: My 08 CRD injectors were checked out 12 months back (originals_160,000ks), when fuel pump was replaced and all were within spec and she starts straight away always.
Have read that acceptance criteria is:
All 4 injectors _The maximum permissible return volume is 3 times as large as the lowest measured
Return volume.
This seems a lot but this is in accordance with Bosh documentation.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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23rd November 2020, 12:08 AM
#13
Expert
It sounds like a candidate for an injector leak test, one of the injectors might be leaking excess fuel pressure via the fuel return line.
An injector is about $400 on it's own. A mechanic will usually advise/recommend that you have the whole set replaced.
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23rd November 2020, 10:23 AM
#14
has the fuel pressure relief valve on the rail been tested?
i linked a test method for you
note: you cant buy the valve from nissan they want to sell a complete rail you'd have to buy a bocsh on part number 1110010018
it could be an injector but check the fuel pressure relief valve first and then go to the injectors.
there is also a valve on the injector pump that is common to fail on common rail vehicles but seams to be very rare on zd30 crd patrols but to test that you'd need a computer to monitor the sensors to determine if its out of specifications
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23rd November 2020, 12:00 PM
#15
Patrol Freak
Unless U already have a scan tool (to read trouble/fault codes), could be a good idea to buy one.
Many available, UltraGauge EMPlus is the one I use and is not too bad (OBD11 compatible). Apps out there as well.
http://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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23rd November 2020, 11:16 PM
#16
Expert
Originally Posted by
Fireblade
it could be an injector but check the fuel pressure relief valve first and then go to the injectors.
On the contrary, an injector leak test is fairly simple to perform, I would suggest doing that first before moving to the fprv.
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24th November 2020, 09:03 AM
#17
to me they are both easy and simple tests, but from experience i feel its going to be the fprv. i may be wrong. leak back test is a good thing to be done anyway, cant loose by doing it.
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26th November 2020, 09:16 AM
#18
thanks everyone, I've got the glow plugs on the way, will start with that; Like I mentioned earlier, I already found 1 is cactus (10.52Mohm); I've got a set coming in today, so I will swap them out - move on from there.
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26th November 2020, 09:46 PM
#19
Just out of curiosity, when I was pulling the plugs out on the weekend, to check them, they were screwed in pretty loose. I mean, it took no effort to undo them from the block.
The manual says they should be tightened to 20nm, but when I last pulled them,they came out really easy.
I don't know what to make of it. Any thoughts?
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26th November 2020, 09:54 PM
#20
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Unless U already have a scan tool (to read trouble/fault codes), could be a good idea to buy one.
Many available, UltraGauge EMPlus is the one I use...
Looks interesting. Do you know if it can read the air intake pressure?
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