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14th October 2020, 11:13 AM
#11
I am he, fear me
@MB
I would grab a multi-meter and after about a week or so of not using the tractor (if it stays parked up that long) and when the panel is in full sun just check the battery terminal voltage.
If it is between 12.6 to 13.4 max (ideally 12.7 to 13.1) and around 12.9 is perfect.
The aim of what you are doing is to stop the battery sulphating which means the voltage has to be held above 12.4 ish
The by product of that aim is that it also means at least an almost full capacity battery.
Last edited by the evil twin; 14th October 2020 at 11:20 AM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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14th October 2020 11:13 AM
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14th October 2020, 12:23 PM
#12
Daily Lurker
I'm always astounded by the knowledge on her, especially yours et. Thanks for sharing
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15th October 2020, 06:34 AM
#13
.........
Will do thankyou kindly ET, appreciated !!
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15th October 2020, 07:20 AM
#14
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Hodge
Look up / Talk to Low Energy Developments Marko mate.
They have various small sized panels for various purposes and fittings , chargers etc... They know solar !
All my solar needs go there.
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Is that the shop in High St Preston? Went in there to get a new panel, was served by a dude in dreadlocks and all I could smell was B.O and weed. Hahaha! Quite helpful though.
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15th October 2020, 01:35 PM
#15
Expert
A shunt regulator is another option in this type of application. It simply clamps the voltage at the set level thus preventing to going above that limit. It would be placed at the panel, before the blocking diode so should be set to about 13.9V (the ideal 12.9V plus the 0.6V drop across the diode). Probably not readily available to buy off the shelf, but anyone into electronics could knock one up for the cost of a beer or two.
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15th October 2020, 04:59 PM
#16
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
Brissieboy
A shunt regulator is another option in this type of application. It simply clamps the voltage at the set level thus preventing to going above that limit. It would be placed at the panel, before the blocking diode so should be set to about 13.9V (the ideal 12.9V plus the 0.6V drop across the diode). Probably not readily available to buy off the shelf, but anyone into electronics could knock one up for the cost of a beer or two.
Good point and agree shunt regs will a) work and b) clamp the voltage but in a practical application like the one discussed the panel output voltage should never rise to 13.9V.
At more than 100 to 1 the battery internal resistance should ensure a current flow such that the panel never gets anywhere near open circuit voltage.
If it did either the panel rating is too high or the battery AH capacity too low for a non-regulated use.
Could maybe consider voltage clamping so that it won't matter what size battery is used (IE works even with smaller capacity) to make it a bit more versatile tho so good idea for that case.
Personally I like to keep my battery maintainer panel setups as simple as possible so no reg of any description is necessary but that may not suit everyone of course.
In the garden I just hook the panel to a 2nd hand battery from work and walk away and they work for years.
For my boat I just have a small fly lead from the panel that plugs into an aux power socket on the boat IE same principle as the dash mat style car panels that sit on the dash and plug into the ciggy lighter.
After a day out on the water (sigh... a rare happening these days) I wash the boat down and as the batteries are fully charged or close to it anyway I just plug in the fly lead and check that it is holding 12.8 every week or so.
Last edited by the evil twin; 15th October 2020 at 05:02 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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15th October 2020, 05:34 PM
#17
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25th October 2020, 10:39 AM
#18
Expert
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
Pls excuse the snip.
That is what the "blocking diode" is for, to prevent reverse current flow when the sun isn't shining.
Thanks for the info. I had a spare 10w panel and soldered a diode into the wiring, connected to a 120ah battery. It's working well, up to 13.6v in full sun.
2008 CRD Auto Wagon
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26th October 2020, 04:07 PM
#19
Expert
Originally Posted by
mudski
Is that the shop in High St Preston? Went in there to get a new panel, was served by a dude in dreadlocks and all I could smell was B.O and weed. Hahaha! Quite helpful though.
Hahahahaha went there myself a few years ago on Australia day weekend to get a cheap chinese 100ah agm. His hair was green and the stink was the same. Copped a 30 second tirade about “happy invasion day “ upon entering. Told him to FK off and purchased a battery elsewhere.
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26th October 2020, 04:17 PM
#20
Moderator
Originally Posted by
MB
Confirming did the old ‘Jaycar Click & Quick Collect’ for a couple of Rusty_Nails & PeeBees phone advice panels on the way home from work.
20W/1.15A direct onto the tractor battery (Lead Acid 160 RC Minutes) if I understand everyone’s thankful advice should loosely convert hopefully to 100+AH safely?
Will look towards a third flash bluetooth type remote version for dam pump down in the valley once time & money permits thanks heaps again Gentlemen
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I bought a 10W version of this from Supercheap and used it on the GQ when it went into the paddock for a few months while i built the shed. It worked perfectly and the GQ cranked straight up when i went to it. It has a constant leaching current and think it is a couple of the LED lights. A little panel is heaps cheaper and easier than finding the draw. lol
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
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MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
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Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
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