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12th June 2020, 06:07 PM
#11
Expert
Originally Posted by
ReggieRay
nipagu7 where is the maf sensor? anyone on Brisbane southside can help? can pay $$
viscous fan providing plenty of resistance when I try to spin it, spinning 1/4 at best
happygu flush out the block? what do you mean flush out the block? before radiator change, it was only getting hot on highway, now radiator and thermostat changed, it gets hot everywhere, usually after around 15 minutes of driving, but often drops back to halfway after about 30 seconds to a minute, then goes up again randomly, sometimes not for a while though.
is there any recall on this faulty batch of 2007s?
Seriously is it REALLY getting hot or are you going by the gauge? Temp sensor Fukked up?
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12th June 2020 06:07 PM
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12th June 2020, 06:54 PM
#12
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Mickhead
Seriously is it REALLY getting hot or are you going by the gauge? Temp sensor Fukked up?
Yeah I was thinking that maybe too. Dodgy temp sender...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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12th June 2020, 07:07 PM
#13
Patrol God
An airlock can cause overheating.
Have you burped the air out of the system. Park the vehicle with the nose slightly up hill. When the engine is cool, take off the radiator cap and tape a half 1.25 l plastic soft drink bottle to the radiator neck. Take the overflow hose off at the overflow bottle and tape it up to the bottle, or block it so water doesn't flow out.
Turn the car on and run it until all the air comes out the neck. Squeeze the hoses to help move any air. On my petrol engine there is an air bleeding screw near the thermostat. I don't know if the ZD has one or not.
Last edited by mudnut; 12th June 2020 at 07:14 PM.
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12th June 2020, 08:07 PM
#14
Patrol God
Welcome to the forum mate.
In the words of a Dhuck "QUACK".
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12th June 2020, 09:16 PM
#15
thanks.. yes definitely getting hot, crimps on the new radiator getting push outwards.. will try putting a roll of newspaper in the fan tomorrow, resisting at cold temp.. anyone in brisbane can help diagnose? can buy you a slab if we make a breakthrough lol located southside.. want to try this air removal trick.. how can I block the overflow hose? tape it up to the bottle? what do you mean?
when it gets too hot, radiator is vibrating a little and some gushing water noises coming from inside the rad..
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12th June 2020, 09:24 PM
#16
The gushing sound is probably steam. Are you sure the radiator is not blocked?
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12th June 2020, 09:42 PM
#17
The master farter
Originally Posted by
mudnut
An airlock can cause overheating.
Have you burped the air out of the system. Park the vehicle with the nose slightly up hill. When the engine is cool, take off the radiator cap and tape a half 1.25 l plastic soft drink bottle to the radiator neck. Take the overflow hose off at the overflow bottle and tape it up to the bottle, or block it so water doesn't flow out.
Turn the car on and run it until all the air comes out the neck. Squeeze the hoses to help move any air. On my petrol engine there is an air bleeding screw near the thermostat. I don't know if the ZD has one or not.
You don't need to burp the cooling system on those Craig. They are a self burping system in a nut shell.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
threedogs (18th June 2020)
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12th June 2020, 09:47 PM
#18
how can I tell if it's blocked?? it's a new radiator..
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12th June 2020, 09:59 PM
#19
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
mudski
You don't need to burp the cooling system on those Craig. They are a self burping system in a nut shell.
Good to know. Thanks, Mark.
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12th June 2020, 10:18 PM
#20
Sounds like a lot of people adding suggestions,
I’ll try add what others haven’t.
Does the top radiator hose and bottom radiator hose feel the same? In two ways when it’s hot/running temp are both hoses feeling the same temperature or is one really hot and the other cold? They should be same when running at operating temperature. If they they are feeling a lot different then that indicated the cooling system isn’t circulating coolant can be a few reasons then like thermostat stuck (I know you fitted new one but I’ve seen new parts out of a box be faulty) or blocked radiator.
Also when squishing the hoses you should feel if there is water inside or air, if the don’t feel the same when squeezed then it could be air and that would explain the heating..
Can’t remember if someone already said to check drive belt, that obviously runs water pump and if the hydraulic tensioner is failing then the belt might not be spinning the water pump enough.
I’ll wait to head how you go with those hose hope the resolute start pointing you in a direction for diagnosing
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