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5th June 2020, 09:59 AM
#11
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Peggy
Yeah mate it’s only under load if I let off or put the clutch in it goes away, will test the one locked in at a time cheers
Remove the Hub and see if the gears that mesh together when you lock the hubs are not slipping. This was the issue with the Chinee hubs I had. I could clearly see the wear marks from the teeth jumping.
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5th June 2020 09:59 AM
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5th June 2020, 10:28 AM
#12
So I tested it out and it only does it when both hubs are locked in, had the hubs off the other day couldn’t see anything to wrong with them, they hard a fair bit of play but I assumed that was normal but could be wrong
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5th June 2020, 10:30 AM
#13
And if I’m accelerating hardish if I’m just cruising it’s fine
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5th June 2020, 10:32 AM
#14
And they are marked AVM made in Brazil so assume they are legit
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5th June 2020, 10:33 AM
#15
The master farter
Have you got any other hubs you can access to swap over to try. Just thinking unless you have a front locker one hub open wont work as a test.
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5th June 2020, 11:28 AM
#16
Nah mate might just bite the bullet and buy some new ones, sick of the stupid torx heads on the AVM ones anyway haha and if that doesn’t fix it I’ll pull the diff out
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7th June 2020, 03:58 PM
#17
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
Peggy
Hey it’s definitely drive line related as it in crease and decreases with speed, changes the unis no change but I tested and it only happens when the hubs are actually locked in should have done that first I know haha, they are AVM HD free wheeling my next question do they require the “egg ring” if so there is none which could be causing the issue
I guess if you know there is no egg ring you've had the hubs apart ...... so did the clunking start before or after you had them apart. My car had no egg rings in it when I got it (standard manual hubs) & I was strongly advised to put them in, which I did. Without them there is room for movement, which may or may not be causing your clunk. It didn't in mine, biut I think I was just lucky & that it was only a matter of time before a problem arose. If I were you I'd buy some & fit them. Won't be a huge expense & it may fix your problem. Even if it doesn't you'll have had a good look at your hubs & know they are not a problem waiting to happen.
Ah just read you've had them apart & have some play in them .... it's possible the egg rings will take up the play.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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7th June 2020, 07:46 PM
#18
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
I guess if you know there is no egg ring you've had the hubs apart ...... so did the clunking start before or after you had them apart. My car had no egg rings in it when I got it (standard manual hubs) & I was strongly advised to put them in, which I did. Without them there is room for movement, which may or may not be causing your clunk. It didn't in mine, biut I think I was just lucky & that it was only a matter of time before a problem arose. If I were you I'd buy some & fit them. Won't be a huge expense & it may fix your problem. Even if it doesn't you'll have had a good look at your hubs & know they are not a problem waiting to happen.
Ah just read you've had them apart & have some play in them .... it's possible the egg rings will take up the play.
He’s running AVM hubs mate. They don’t use the egg ring.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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7th June 2020, 08:20 PM
#19
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
mudski
He’s running AVM hubs mate. They don’t use the egg ring.
Aha, that's probably why he said they were missing then.
I always thought they were pretty much a straight copy of the OE hubs.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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9th June 2020, 08:09 AM
#20
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
Aha, that's probably why he said they were missing then.
I always thought they were pretty much a straight copy of the OE hubs.
They are a two piece design. Full auto hubs converted to manual are better than AVM hubs.
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