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Interesting reading everyone's experiences. I've not had trouble with my cooling system (so far luckily) but I read an article when researching fitting the 82° thermostat (which I'm planning on installing) which covered air flow.
Do you guys have this air dam fitted still?
mine is broken along the bottom where the three bolts are but stays in place.
Also the foam along the top of the radiator?
again mine is partially in place but coming away on the left had side of the photo.
Both those elements assist moving the air though the radiator.
Also mentioned in the article is checking you have a 1.1 bar rated radiator cap, not a 0.9 bar, as that’s the pressure it will allow before it vents to your overflow – a touch more pressure in a 1.1 bar cap will stop it venting (and boiling) sooner..
A lot of interesting info in that article.. Along with some things I may try.
Although, I notice he appears to be running the wider gq radiator? Any of you parts gurus know if any of the gu's came standard with that wider radiator?
If he has swapped it.. Just makes me a bit skeptical about some of the statements made.
A lot of interesting info in that article.. Along with some things I may try.
Although, I notice he appears to be running the wider gq radiator? Any of you parts gurus know if any of the gu's came standard with that wider radiator?
If he has swapped it.. Just makes me a bit skeptical about some of the statements made.
The wide radiator was used in the GU until around late 2004 from memory. My 01 GU uses the wide rad. I’ve also put new foam seals around the radiator and also the a/c condenser and also have the plastic air dam fitted. All to no avail.
The wide radiator was used in the GU until around late 2004 from memory. My 01 GU uses the wide rad. I’ve also put new foam seals around the radiator and also the a/c condenser and also have the plastic air dam fitted. All to no avail.
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Mines a 2003 and has the skinny one, but you've answered my main question anyway. Thanks for that.
I find it interesting that Nissan states 118deg is safe yet puts in a 76deg thermostat. Maybe I'm worrying too much. I've never even seen it get to 110.
Mine hasn't got that air dam fitted. Maybe it had in the past? I have a plate with slots in it, I believe it was a part of ARB bullbar assembly?
I believe this tune / injector business has a lot to do with thermal behaviour of the ol' TD. I think @mudski is onto it.
My injectors have never been touched. But each time my car was tuned, the temperatures altered. It's black magic this diesel tuning stuff...
First time it got dynoed and tuned, I believe it was just a flat-head screwdriver fuel screw job... I gained a bit more go, and a bit more smoke behind me and temps were up a little bit...
Second time was after intercooler and exhaust were fitted. Again I believe he just monkeys around the screw. Power was the same, a gained LOTS more smoke at the back and I had to really PUSH the car to get egts and/or coolant temps up to warmer areas... This tells me a lot of unburnt diesel was being sent out the rear choking the poor sods behind me.
Last time was a proper tune @ dieseltec. Car was best its ever been in my possesion. More response and GO throughout MORE of the rev range and gained a incredible sweet spot between 1500-2800 ish rev range. And NO smoke at the back. But THIS time around the drawback is that my EGT's and Coolant temps went up considerably when car is pushed and I can get to those temps quiet easily.... Perhaps maybe now the car is burning the diesel properly and MORE of it to gain that performance and thus the temps are up. Maybe how it should be ???I remember the guy at diesel tec told me I had my gauge alarms set WAY too low. My EGT alarm was at 400 and coolant at 88. And he said thats where the TD begins to sing.
Mines a 2003 and has the skinny one, but you've answered my main question anyway. Thanks for that.
I find it interesting that Nissan states 118deg is safe yet puts in a 76deg thermostat. Maybe I'm worrying too much. I've never even seen it get to 110.
Ok. I thought the skinning rad starts in the series 4's. Cheers.
Thanks for all the help, temps are getting a bit better now.
I have replaced the radiator with a alloy one as the old one had a small weep.
I also replaced the rad cap with a 1.1 bar one.
Now i can make it up a nearby ski field access road foot flat most of the way and it only got to the high 90's at the top, before it would got past 100 after about half the climb while taking it easy.
So i am pretty happy on the over heating issue, I am still not happy about the over cooling.
So once turning around the the top of the access road the temps drop really fast down to 70 , then continue to creep down to about the mid 50's by half way down.
My thoughts are that the thermostat is not closing properly but I have tried 3 thermostats (the one that was in it, a new genuine and a modified 4mm longer one)
Does the head coolant bypass hose allow circulation thru the radiator bypassing the thermostat?
Could it be the injectors? should i look at getting second hand ones and reco to factory spec or look at advancing timing on the pump and keeping high crack pressures ones?
G’day Leroy, in regards your last question of over cooling downhill, do you know if any of the thermostats you have trialled to date had jiggle pins installed mate?
As per the link to another thread in post #3 here kindly added for you by Mudrunnertd, I did some fairly extensive testing on 3 available Nissan OEM thermostats.
Mine was behaving almost exactly like yours is described above and installing one of the OEM higher rated thermostats instantly solved my problem.
In summary:
OEM 76.5C does not have a jiggle pin.
OEM 82C does have a jiggle pin.
OEM 88C does have a jiggle pin.
I have been personally running the 88C throughout Victorian winter 2019 and summer 2020 to find almost no difference on the maximum water temperatures the same as the OEM 76.5C was doing.
What I did find was that the new lowest temperatures hugged very close to its 88C setting unlike the jiggle pinless 76.5C that allowed extra circulation I now believe even when fully closed as pot tested its settings for clarity.
An added bonus was finding after so many years that the old TD42T ran its best fuel economy ever if I could get it singing along on the highway at 92C or near enough.
Worth a quick read of the linky in post #3, some great input from top members helping me with my 56C downhill winter issue too.
Thanks for all the help, temps are getting a bit better now.
I have replaced the radiator with a alloy one as the old one had a small weep.
I also replaced the rad cap with a 1.1 bar one.
Now i can make it up a nearby ski field access road foot flat most of the way and it only got to the high 90's at the top, before it would got past 100 after about half the climb while taking it easy.
So i am pretty happy on the over heating issue, I am still not happy about the over cooling.
So once turning around the the top of the access road the temps drop really fast down to 70 , then continue to creep down to about the mid 50's by half way down.
My thoughts are that the thermostat is not closing properly but I have tried 3 thermostats (the one that was in it, a new genuine and a modified 4mm longer one)
Does the head coolant bypass hose allow circulation thru the radiator bypassing the thermostat?
Could it be the injectors? should i look at getting second hand ones and reco to factory spec or look at advancing timing on the pump and keeping high crack pressures ones?
Cheers.
I've decided myself to go back to stock injectors. To be honest I dont even know how much better high crack pressure injector are than stockies. Ive just had them in my car since the motor got built so I dont know any different. And from my understanding, advancing the timing should solve the issue of heat, but it comes at a cost of power, again, not sure how much. But it just seems pointless to me to lose power just to have these injectors in. I might aswell have stock injectors, plus plenty of people getting around with stock injectors running more power than I am.
Back on track Leroy Mate from your other thread brother.
Have you trialled either of the OEM 82C & 88C thermostats as yet?
Left one in the picture is the 76.5C OEM and I would definitely not recommend that for New Zealand year round ambient temperatures much like us Southern Victorian Hillbillies.