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29th October 2019, 09:41 AM
#21
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Wow thats a lot of work with great results. Id just say any
hoses in the engine bay that touch or cross each other to
use a cable tie to stop them rubbing.
Also there is a small door mod using one of those bonnet style
struts. Have a search and youll find it doesnt cost much which is good
A rivnut tool will make that job easier, keep the pics and mods coming,
dont forget to block the egr .
Cheers @threedogs!
I'll be sure to secure any hoses and wires with cable ties. I did do that with the boost hose running up to the back of the intercooler. I do have some extra 10mm corrugated split tubing that I am going to run over the cables coming through the firewall, but I'll put that on once I've run all the cables through.
I have seen the barn door mod with the hydraulic gas strut, but I haven't made my mind up yet on if I'll do that mod.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Cremulator For This Useful Post:
Dos1992 (29th February 2024), threedogs (29th October 2019)
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29th October 2019 09:41 AM
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29th October 2019, 08:30 PM
#22
Patrol Guru
Dyno tune
After getting the EGT and boost gauge install finished I took the car to Diesel-tec in Lilydale to get tuned.
I had the pleasure of meeting some of the Vic members in person; @MB, @AB and @rusty_nail.
All top blokes and very hospitable.
Getting a dunno run was a good way to find out more about the car. Apparently the fuel had been turned up by a previous owner, but the boost hadn't been adjusted.
So I got the boost increased from the factory 10 PSI to 12.5 PSI and the fuel adjusted accordingly.
Didn't produce much difference in the numbers, but it should run more economically and cooler when towing.
Factory TD42Ti with a 3in Manta exhaust from the turbo back.
Blue is before, black is after.Diesel-Tec_Dyno_Tune_2019_10_07.jpeg
Last edited by Cremulator; 29th October 2019 at 09:07 PM.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Cremulator For This Useful Post:
0-TJ-0 (31st October 2019), MB (29th October 2019), rusty_nail (7th November 2019)
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14th December 2019, 04:01 PM
#23
Patrol Guru
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The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Cremulator For This Useful Post:
clawrence (31st December 2020), Count Grantleyish (17th December 2019), jay see (14th December 2019), MB (15th December 2019), Mickhead (15th December 2019), Reddave (15th December 2019)
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14th December 2019, 04:20 PM
#24
Legendary
Nice work.
Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk
12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
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The Following User Says Thank You to jay see For This Useful Post:
Cremulator (14th December 2019)
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14th December 2019, 05:44 PM
#25
Patrol God
Great work there mate. I have the same gauge, the redarc g52 BET. My optional temp is just water tamp from thermo housing. But I like the flick switch idea to switch senders very much.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Hodge For This Useful Post:
Cremulator (14th December 2019)
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14th December 2019, 06:06 PM
#26
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
Hodge
Great work there mate. I have the same gauge, the redarc g52 BET. My optional temp is just water tamp from thermo housing. But I like the flick switch idea to switch senders very much.
Yeh, it's very simple. You could easily switch water/oil temp or even water/oil/air with a three way switch!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cremulator For This Useful Post:
Hodge (15th December 2019)
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15th December 2019, 02:27 PM
#27
Travelling Podologist
Well done with the gauge dimming!
My car (Dx) has no dimmer switch so I fitted Redarc's GA-ELC 'Enhanced Lighting Controller' to be able to dim my gauges at night to avoid being blinded by their brightness. It worked ok, but the problem is that when I want to run with headlights on during the day the night setting on the gauges is a bit too dim to easily see in daylight, & if I make it brighter it's too bright at night. Although less than perfect I have adapted to flicking the headlights off now & then (when using them during the day) just to check the gauges.
Would be nice to be able to adjust the gauge lights independently...... but that'll have to be a project for when I'm finally back in Victoria.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
Cremulator (15th December 2019)
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15th December 2019, 03:19 PM
#28
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
Well done with the gauge dimming!
My car (Dx) has no dimmer switch so I fitted Redarc's GA-ELC 'Enhanced Lighting Controller' to be able to dim my gauges at night to avoid being blinded by their brightness. It worked ok, but the problem is that when I want to run with headlights on during the day the night setting on the gauges is a bit too dim to easily see in daylight, & if I make it brighter it's too bright at night. Although less than perfect I have adapted to flicking the headlights off now & then (when using them during the day) just to check the gauges.
Would be nice to be able to adjust the gauge lights independently...... but that'll have to be a project for when I'm finally back in Victoria.
Thanks @Cuppa
It almost drove me crazy trying to work out how to do it and I burnt out the first dimmer I got from the wreckers so had to go back for another one, but worked it out in the end.
Apart from the relay component its actually simple to wire up.
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15th December 2019, 03:33 PM
#29
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
Cremulator
Thanks @
Cuppa
It almost drove me crazy trying to work out how to do it and I burnt out the first dimmer I got from the wreckers so had to go back for another one, but worked it out in the end.
Apart from the relay component its actually simple to wire up.
@Cremulator I'll have to invite you up to Ballarat for a weekend when we eventually return home!
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
Cremulator (15th December 2019)
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15th December 2019, 03:50 PM
#30
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
@
Cremulator I'll have to invite you up to Ballarat for a weekend when we eventually return home!
Haha. Thanks?
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