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Lets face it, cruise control installation in GU Patrol is a bit of nasty joke, factory setup is just pathetic and until now most aftermarket units were overpriced with no self instalation option.
Finally though things are changing and what appears to be a hope for us, there are number of kits available on E-bay which are tailored to Nissan Patrols GU series from 2000-2008.
Available with either factory steering wheel OEM installation unit (more expensive) or a aftermarket stalk option (cheaper).
We'll describe the fitment of the kit with steering wheel mounted controls.
Read and follow enclosed instructions carefully and refer to following:
WARNINGS! SRS Airbag is highly dangerous to manipulate if precautions are not followed.
*Disconnect battery/ies both negative (first) and positive terminals and wait about 5 mins.
*Remove covers (2x) on either side of the steering wheel with seal pick tool or small blade screw driver
*Exposed screws can be removed by using tamper proof Torx bit.
*Carefully withdraw the SRS Airbag asssembly far enough to access the plugs
or
*To remove the airbag connector first unlock the black safety locking tab by prying it carefully up using a pick, then unplug the rest
Picture shows how it suppose to look like
*Unplug the horn and clock spring plug and disengage it from the metal tab so you can rest the airbag on a seat while removing the blanking panel for the switches panel.
*Unscrew the bolts remove the blank and fit the switches panel, put the SRS airbag assembly aside in the safe place.
*Unlock the harness with single horn wire by pulling the locking tab out with a pick far enough so you can clearly see the terminal inside.
In the instructions it says
*That was my case, I made sure by using multimeter and measured on the underside of the SW (steering wheel) clock spring connectors if they match the following instruction
*So pause here and confirm which wire is which. The terminals will only insert one way observe the existing horn wire terminal and it will be obvious which way.
*To remove lower side clock spring connector/s care needs to takes as they're a little harder to remove as the unlocking tab is very hard to push in by fingers so a small screwdriver and extra care should handle it. The grey connector comes out first (the only one to remove anyway)
It is the grey plug and secondary terminal lock needs to be released before the terminals can be inserted and again terminals will only fit one way.
Picture bellow shows how it suppose to look (it is the yellow connector as an example only)
*After fitting the terminals push the lock back in ( I had a trouble to push one of the terminals all the way so I used small point nose pliers to pull it in (again check with the position of the existing wire/terminal)
*Plug lower side clock spring connectors back in,
*Plug top clock spring side plug in (3 wires now, yellow, white and black)
*Refit SRS Airbag assembly making sure all is plugged in, secured and not fouling on anything
*Refit screws and covers.
*Remove lower dash panel (1x screw + 2x screws for fuel cap release lever and 2x screws for bonnet catch release lever and push on clips) to gain access to the underside where pedals are. (I removed the side panel next to accelerator pedal as well as space is restricted and TPS plugs are harder to reach.)
*Fit clutch switch if required (manual) as per instructions
*Route harness as you wish so the TPS plugs, brake pedal switch plug (if manual clutch switch plug) can be reached and plugs connected. Ensure that no wiring for the cruise control can be snagged by the pedal linkage movement!
I used main harness around accelerator assembly as a guide and the top bolt of U bracket (keeping the harness safe) for it to mount the CC control unit behind the accelerator pedal assembly using a piece of flat ally)
For the ignition supply wire (I only solder PCBs) reused spare ABS ignition fuse feed with this little gadget ==>
For speed signal wire blue/orange (pin 20 centre plug):
*Unplug the harness for the speed signal wire to identify which one as per instruction which are BW so here is the colour version
I have made Y piece wiring piece/plugs to connect instead of soldering
*Once everything is connected it is time to test it. Leave the diode harness hanging free so you can decide where to fit it later once everything works as it should.
*Reconnect battery in reverse order of disconnecting.
*While standing outside (so if SRS Airbag goes off for chit and giggles you are not inside) turn the ignition key on and wait for warning lamps etc. to go out.
*Test the cruise control ON switch, the diode should light up green.
Time for the road test. The cruise control diode should change a little to give orange when the cruise control is set.
*If everything works fit the diode by drilling the hole somewhere as appropriate. e.g.
Refit panels.
Enjoy the long drives without cramped up right foot
Huge thanks to "Dronus" for putting me up for this by posting his built on P4x4 forum.
Cheers
Last edited by Rumcajs; 29th September 2016 at 09:32 PM.
The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to Rumcajs For This Useful Post:
AB (29th September 2016), Bigcol (29th September 2016), Gazzmate (13th May 2017), lil regy (19th January 2018), MudRunnerTD (4th November 2020), mudski (29th September 2016), Ropes (22nd February 2017), Stropp (29th September 2016), TrollinAround (4th February 2018), Woof (29th September 2016)
My install was pretty much as shown. I did not disconnect the centre air bag connector--I zip tied the air bag to the steering wheel and made the connection. Of course I needed the alternate pin location!!
I found the pedal loom was the biggest headache--no room. I also removed the side panel as Rumcajs did. Initially the accelerator arm hooked the pedal loom, so tidy-up required.
Instructions say #20 or #50 torx key, but I found #30 fit my Patrol.
Works great, looks original and worth the extra $50 for factory switch.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
Awesome write up mate. I messaged you with a question but re-read what you have above and figured it out. Just installed mine today and I HATE everything electrical.
G'day Rumcajs, question. I did this install, it instructed the purple wire to go through the firewall into a grey wire at the back of the fuse box under the hood to get the speed. I've done that, but the cruise is dodgy. I'll engage it, the vehicle will list about 10-15kph, then floors it to go about 5-10 over where it's set, calms down, then keeps pumping the gas to maintain speed. I spoke to the supplier who reckons the connection to gauge speed might be wrong. Can I take the purple wire to the one you've suggested here in the cab on the driver's side? Would've been a ton easier...
Got a 04 guiii 3.0TDi auto.
Cheers!
Joe.
*Edit*
So, this Noddy had the power wire installed on the wrong cable. Goes beautiful now!
Last edited by Sefrski; 15th May 2020 at 09:52 PM.
Reason: New info
Hi all. Installed my Autotrada kit this afternoon. 2009 GU Manual Ute. Only issue I found (other than a lot of head scratching around the clockspring connector - new type) was that I have already some switch at my clutch. Looks factory. So unable to fit theirs.
Anyone know anything about this? I have put a call into them but thought someone here may know.
Hi all. Installed my Autotrada kit this afternoon. 2009 GU Manual Ute. Only issue I found (other than a lot of head scratching around the clockspring connector - new type) was that I have already some switch at my clutch. Looks factory. So unable to fit theirs.
Anyone know anything about this? I have put a call into them but thought someone here may know.
Cheers
It is really common for Nissan to install a full loom and just ignore unrequird plugs and leave them hanging. When I bought Leather Ti electric seats for my GUIV I found the factory loom under the carpet in each seat well and the electric seats was just plug and play. I didn't even need to add a fuse. I was stoked. Same goes for Loom on electric windows and central locking.
Are you able to split the loom there to use the factory one? Although it won't be driving anything and the other end will be a hanging plug too. The engine bay plug will be over near the left side bonnet hinge somewhere, probably hanging off the fire wall. Hope that helps.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever. WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.