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Thread: Clutch Replacement to cope with extra Berries 08 GU CRD

  1. #11
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Had a look around bell housing, no oil evident (all glued up/silicon), even fork boot. Would not take much oil to weep if was cause. Will drive same hill it this arvo and see how goes.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  2. #12
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    Our Van clutch was slipping, and smelled a bit. A mechanic noticed a bit of oil at the bottom of the bell housing. He advised me to deliberately slip the clutch to heat up the oil and burn it off. It worked and the clutch lasted until we sold the car a year or so later.
    Retraced my drive of last night and am 90% certain clutch need replacing. First climb 4th gear / 75% eng load @ 450N-m started slipping real bad, revs just ran away. Turned around came home the easy route, but once again 5th gear 450N-m @2250rpm she slipped away, stopped and had strong smell of cooking clutch plate lining mat'l.

    My pedal is very high and think the clamping force would be very low.

    Was thinking of doing a run down sth for install as was thinking of putting in reduction gears at same time, but doubt I would get over the divide. Make some phone calls tomorrow to make final decision on clutch conversion kit(HD withg SMF). So many suppliers do not state performance data against there products on line.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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    mudnut (25th August 2019)

  4. #13
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    I use and always have the Clutch Industries 4 Terrain clutch. Never had and issues with it, my motor is now circa 650nm and the clutch is holding it easily.

  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Has happened(160,000 kms stock clutch)_slipping. Yesterday doing some solid tune climb runs (hauling) with new FM and clutch started excessive slipping mode. Loud pedal 500N-m climbing, high boost 25psi and all of a sudden boost dropped away revs rose from 2500 - 3000 (so quick) and kph stayed same. Drove home limiting slip on hills.
    My CRD produces approx 175hp/520N-m(rear wheels).

    Looking at HD clutch kit replacement and go with a solid mass flywheel. Spent last 6 hrs reading up about the place. Yeah lots of suppliers noted, looking so far at eg:
    Exedy Direct, NPC Viper, Extreme, 4Terrain and Patrolapart kit(Safari Tuff clutch kit). Some use common Exedy clutches.

    Give me some advice: What about going with Patrolapart kit (Safari Tuff clutch kit assy)$1145_ consisting: Exedy Safari Pressure Plate, Exedy Safari Tuff clutch and includes a solid / single mass flywheel?

    https://patrolapart.com.au/product/n...RIRc5ZoxPrEfQc
    Without sounding over opinionated and narrow minded, any chance i can convince you to go auto?

    I couldnt imagine anything worse than buying a clutch again amd eventually flogging it out due to the high hp and weight of our vehicles.

    You can purchase an re4 auto and a manualised valve body for around the same price as a decent clutch and you'll never have to worry about frying them again.

    Yeah they suck a bit of fun out of wheeling but your low crawl control is second to none, on road is better, less time loss between gears etc...

    A manualised auto still requires you to manually change gears if you like the manual feel of driving too.

    I have a fully built fully manualised re4 auto thats rated to 1000hp and theres currently one in sydney running 9.90s down the quarter taking constant abuse...

    Speaking of which, i am currentpy making close to 450rwhp in my patrol for close to 2 years and i can tell you now there is no way any viper clutch or other ckutch will cope with the power amd weight and stuff i have done in my patrol even on the street.

    We are currently waiting for a new cooler and echaust to be made to retune it for a rear wheel figure of over 500rwkw (700rwhp)

    Just my two bob... its never too late

  6. #15
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baby Daddy View Post
    Without sounding over opinionated and narrow minded, any chance i can convince you to go auto?

    I couldnt imagine anything worse than buying a clutch again amd eventually flogging it out due to the high hp and weight of our vehicles.

    You can purchase an re4 auto and a manualised valve body for around the same price as a decent clutch and you'll never have to worry about frying them again.

    Yeah they suck a bit of fun out of wheeling but your low crawl control is second to none, on road is better, less time loss between gears etc...

    A manualised auto still requires you to manually change gears if you like the manual feel of driving too.

    I have a fully built fully manualised re4 auto thats rated to 1000hp and theres currently one in sydney running 9.90s down the quarter taking constant abuse...

    Speaking of which, i am currentpy making close to 450rwhp in my patrol for close to 2 years and i can tell you now there is no way any viper clutch or other ckutch will cope with the power amd weight and stuff i have done in my patrol even on the street.

    We are currently waiting for a new cooler and echaust to be made to retune it for a rear wheel figure of over 500rwkw (700rwhp)

    Just my two bob... its never too late
    500rwkw is a BIG difference to Johns 140rwkw( or there abouts). Any decent clutch will last 80-100thou, if not abused.

  7. #16
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    @Baby Daddy your numbers are certainly from a different league to my CRD. I run a VNT Procharge stage 3 h/f turbo @ 27 psi that takes a bit to get the turbine to spin up below 1500 rpm and an auto box running higher/quicker change would most likely help out but guess I am a bit old school.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  8. #17
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    I use and always have the Clutch Industries 4 Terrain clutch. Never had and issues with it, my motor is now circa 650nm and the clutch is holding it easily.
    Mark is this the CI Heavy Duty, do you have a part number and what flywheel you running?
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  9. #18
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baby Daddy View Post

    You can purchase an re4 auto and a manualised valve body for around the same price as a decent clutch and you'll never have to worry about frying them again.
    Have an inquisitive side, guess this purchase is of a second hand RE4 auto gear box and controller + need trans cooler?
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

  10. #19
    The master farter mudski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bidja View Post
    Mark is this the CI Heavy Duty, do you have a part number and what flywheel you running?
    The 4 Terrain is there heavy duty range. Like the Tuff Clutch range of Safari.
    http://clutchindustries.com.au/range...ainclutch.html

    No part number sorry, theres only one clutch that will suit yours. And I was running a solid flywheel...

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    Bidja (26th August 2019)

  12. #20
    Patrol Freak Bidja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudski View Post
    The 4 Terrain is there heavy duty range. Like the Tuff Clutch range of Safari.
    http://clutchindustries.com.au/range...ainclutch.html

    No part number sorry, theres only one clutch that will suit yours. And I was running a solid flywheel...
    Have checked these pages, will ring_thanks mate. Interesting, local mechanic friend has suggested same.
    2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job

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