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3rd April 2019, 02:14 PM
#1
Timing cover removal 2006 3.0DDi
I have compression issues with #1 and 2 cylinders--both fail to hold compression. #3 and 4 are fine.
Initial diagnosis says there is a blown head gasket between those two.
Has anyone been successful in removing the front timing cover without removing the engine. History from the "water leak" issue I had earlier says the vacuum pump shaft is too long to get the cover off, even with the radiator out.
Any comments, suggestions welcome, otherwise I need to lift the engine out--bummer.
Thanks
Gary
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
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3rd April 2019 02:14 PM
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3rd April 2019, 08:26 PM
#2
The master farter
@Hodge.
As far as I know. Its an engine out job.
Edit : Well. Do what I should have done when my 3ltr shat itself. Drop a Cummins it in. If only I knew back then what I knew now I wouldn't have put a TD in.
Last edited by mudski; 3rd April 2019 at 08:28 PM.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
Dr Gary (4th April 2019), rusty_nail (3rd April 2019)
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4th April 2019, 06:33 AM
#3
Patrol God
If it's leaking from where I think it's leaking than it's not unusual for these motors to do this.
My ex-3L crd is still leaking just like this. And has been since 2011.
Common on the zd30 I'm lead to believe. Sandwich plate at timing cover.
When I ran around looking for a fix or someone to fix it , was told it's a motor out jobbie.
There are some posts on the other forum with people getting it done in-situ , but in the end they all said it would have been a far less tedious job if motor got yanked out. Some of them posts have a lot of info and photos.
Personally I left mine as is and just monitor and top up once a month as required. During warmer months it virtually did not leak due to metal expansion I believe compressing the leak hole.
The current owner which I see all the time , does exactly the same .
Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
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4th April 2019, 08:52 AM
#4
Hi Mudski: you are probably correct but I have had too many birthdays to be rebuilding at this stage. Should have done it when I had the engine out to do the water leak.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dr Gary For This Useful Post:
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4th April 2019, 08:55 AM
#5
Hi Hodge: Actually did the engine out water repair a few years back, just a slight bow in the steel plate behind the timing gear. $50 fix for $3K. This is no compression between #1 and #2.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
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5th April 2019, 07:20 AM
#6
The master farter
Do you need to remove the timing cover to remove the head in the Di? Its been a while since I last looked at one of these motors. Let hope it is just a head gasket.
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5th April 2019, 12:53 PM
#7
Originally Posted by
mudski
Do you need to remove the timing cover to remove the head in the Di? Its been a while since I last looked at one of these motors. Let hope it is just a head gasket.
The head carries a camshaft that runs off the timing chain at the top part of the front. That covers the drive to the camshaft, so needs to come off.
I suspect I can get the front cover off, and that MAY be enough. I will report later.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dr Gary For This Useful Post:
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9th April 2019, 06:25 PM
#8
OK so I now know the issue is the two front pistons are stuffed--not in the top but down the side. Really bad scoring of the bore in both cylinders. It looks like #2 has been hot, but I guess if a piston or rings or other debris is running up and down the bore it will get hot. No warning on EGT. Injector spray pattern and pressures are all about right.
Does anyone know if this is a "wet sleeve" motor?? Alternative is a rebore and oversize pistons--not my preferred choice.
This has been an expensive poor choice--I opted for the 3.0 because the kw rating was higher than the 4.2 Now I pay the price for the third time--clutch, water leak and now ??? Oh well.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
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9th April 2019, 06:57 PM
#9
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
Dr Gary
OK so I now know the issue is the two front pistons are stuffed--not in the top but down the side. Really bad scoring of the bore in both cylinders. It looks like #2 has been hot, but I guess if a piston or rings or other debris is running up and down the bore it will get hot. No warning on EGT. Injector spray pattern and pressures are all about right.
Does anyone know if this is a "wet sleeve" motor?? Alternative is a rebore and oversize pistons--not my preferred choice.
This has been an expensive poor choice--I opted for the 3.0 because the kw rating was higher than the 4.2 Now I pay the price for the third time--clutch, water leak and now ??? Oh well.
Would a re-co motor or a swap out from wreckers be more viable than spending more time and $ rebuilding it ?
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The Following User Says Thank You to Hodge For This Useful Post:
Dr Gary (18th April 2019)
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11th April 2019, 06:55 AM
#10
Originally Posted by
Hodge
Would a re-co motor or a swap out from wreckers be more viable than spending more time and $ rebuilding it ?
The rebuild is similar $$'s to re-co motor. They also fit a new head. I know the rebuilder and they are local. Time is not critical--except I am reduced to borrowing my wife's Territory
4.2 turnkey is $20k plus, Duramax $40k--too rich for me especially as I do not tow anything.
GU IV 2006; 3.0 DDi ST-S; Nissan Snorkel, Bull Bar and Tow Bar; Warn 8,000# Winch with Dyneema rope; Auber EGT, Boost and dual Battery gauges; Provent 200; Dual Batteries; Three Dogs recovery points; Rear Springs +20% load; Outback drawers and Cargo Barrier; UHF; [GPS, Radio, CD, Bluetooth, SD, USB] floor extension; Alloy roof rack
"Smart people know what they don't know"
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dr Gary For This Useful Post: