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12th July 2018, 04:29 PM
#8461
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
Yeti's Beast
Your braver than me, I think I would of set it on fire.
Now while you have it apart please have a look and tell me why my air control flaps rattle.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Does it rattle, like plastic insulated wire loom against hard surface sound (but it is not)... lol @ 2200-2500 rpm under slight eng load (more often in colder weather) and appears to come from in and up behind center console?
Can you stop it by rotating flap control dial to demist (stops only sometimes)?
Last edited by Bidja; 12th July 2018 at 04:32 PM.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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12th July 2018 04:29 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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12th July 2018, 04:31 PM
#8462
Expert
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Does it rattle, like plastic insulated wire loom against hard surface sound (but it is not)... lol @ 22-2500 rpm under slight eng load (more often in colder weather) and appears to come from in and up behind center console?
Can you stop it by rotating flap control dial to demist (stops only sometimes)?
Hi
Yes if I turn the dial slightly it will sometimes stop rattling or moving to delist and back. It depends on the day. Mostly if I turn it half way to the next setting it will stop.
It’s often worse in warmer months.
Cheers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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12th July 2018, 06:08 PM
#8463
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
Yeti's Beast
Hi
Yes if I turn the dial slightly it will sometimes stop rattling or moving to delist and back. It depends on the day. Mostly if I turn it half way to the next setting it will stop.
It’s often worse in warmer months.
Cheers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
OK, this is what I did after lots of yoga from under the dash. Remove center console cover and remove lower RHS dash shroud (adjacent to center counsel) and why not remove radio(easy), if you want. Go for a drive and when nose comes on, place hand/fingers in against flap control linkages on the RHS side of flap box and with slight sideways finger pressure, move around against flap control linkages and you should be able to stop the rattle. Mine was the small sector switch plate that had a felt washer on its pivot post (between the switch plate and the flap box side). I removed some of the sideways play by using slightly thicker felt washer (made up x 2 thickness). Think there was a screw holding a switch plate in position on its pivot point. The linkages have a slight amount of grease at the pivots and link arms, try a little more grease to absorb vibration and I even bent/deformed the sector plate a little to gain more clearance. You can easily slide your fingers in thru from front RHS of counsel with cover removed and access the sector plate holding screw linkages etc from up/under dash with lower shroud removed. Initially the noise seemed to come from all over the place (air ducting and even thought snorkel fixing bolts) but mainly center console cover area. Good idea to check snorkel retaining bolts while playing as mine were loose a little.
Nissan had dash out twice before I found that the linkages were at fault.
Last edited by Bidja; 12th July 2018 at 06:12 PM.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bidja For This Useful Post:
Yeti's Beast (12th July 2018)
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12th July 2018, 10:00 PM
#8464
The master farter
This is the sound deadening stuff I got @Rossco. The stuff you got. did it have some weight to it? The stuff I got is quite light. But thick.
IMG_0872.JPG
Last edited by mudski; 12th July 2018 at 10:06 PM.
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12th July 2018, 10:32 PM
#8465
The master farter
I also had to cut the carpet out this arvo too. Was bloody soaked under it and starting to get a bit of mould.
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13th July 2018, 01:30 PM
#8466
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
Many thanks for that, I will have a look at it tomorrow. Additionally I realised the actual dimension of the spring is measured with your foot on the brake - think I recall that correctly, so will get a stick of the correct length and jam it on the pedal and see what goes.
OK, brackets are at 90 deg, or within a degree judging by the square i used. The spring arm is sitting at 196mm whether i have no brakes applied or a pole jamming the brake pedal down - shouldn't this dimension change? Next step is to pull the thing out and see if its jammed up. This is getting a bit annoying now but I guess i am learning stuff.
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13th July 2018, 02:23 PM
#8467
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
OK, brackets are at 90 deg, or within a degree judging by the square i used. The spring arm is sitting at 196mm whether i have no brakes applied or a pole jamming the brake pedal down - shouldn't this dimension change? Next step is to pull the thing out and see if its jammed up. This is getting a bit annoying now but I guess i am learning stuff.
My understanding is that the spring length would change only when vehicle is in motion when the proportioning valve is compensating for the
"differences in weight distribution front-to-rear as well as the forward weight shift that occurs when the brakes are applied."
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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13th July 2018, 03:10 PM
#8468
Patrol Freak
i threw some black on the rear bar.
if its worth doin its worth over doin
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13th July 2018, 04:40 PM
#8469
The master farter
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
OK, brackets are at 90 deg, or within a degree judging by the square i used. The spring arm is sitting at 196mm whether i have no brakes applied or a pole jamming the brake pedal down - shouldn't this dimension change? Next step is to pull the thing out and see if its jammed up. This is getting a bit annoying now but I guess i am learning stuff.
The arm doesnt move when you apply the brakes. It only varies the amount of brake fluid that passes through the valve to the rear brakes, if that what you are referring to sorry...
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13th July 2018, 05:32 PM
#8470
Mark, I think I need to do some reading on this. Right now I have a front brake bias, which results in a noticeable dip when braking moderately hard. Before the twin caliper upgrade the vehicle stayed flat but braked very poorly, due to the excessive weight. I dont know if I will actually get a better brake effect if the rears get higher pressure or they will simply lock up. I guess I am trying to hit some defined dimension in the manual that has the spring length at between 208 and 220mm. Mine sits at 196mm. If the arm is forced against the spring stopper screw, that is factory set, the most I get is a spring length of 200mm. What is the extra 8mm - 20mm going to do for me, or isn't it important? I cannot tell if the plunger in the proportional valve is even moving, so have to remove it I think. Even if it is moving, there is approx 5mm of free movement avail on the spring before it hits the stopper screw.
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