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4th April 2018, 12:33 AM
#11
Moderator
Operator error for sure Cuppa. Sorry mate. I understand your frustration because i have seen an exhaust jack not cooperate until it is positioned well and the inflation works perfectly if done right. If done wrong it will struggle to inflate, be slow and leak.
The cone on the end of the hose will cater for the 3" exhaust no problem but will really struggle if the and of the exhaust is not cut off square. If there is an angle forget it.
Yes you need to lean in and push it on hard. Yes you need Mrs T to Rev the car! Forget trying to lift your car with your engine idling away. Zero chance of any more than slight lift off idle.
When i worked at the Avalon Airshow last year Tarmac Ops had 10 exhaust jacks that they had in the Store but had never tested. They asked us to unpack and test them. I had no trouble getting full lift out of every one.
The best kit i have.
Dont over think it. The bag does not need to be neat and straight. Actually it will probably never be. It needs to be well placed and stable but that dosent mean uncreased with straight sides.
Best place to lift is under the diff housing. Have another go. Or bring it to me and id be happy to show you. Or google on youtube.
Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 4th April 2018 at 12:59 AM.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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4th April 2018 12:33 AM
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4th April 2018, 10:48 AM
#12
I am he, fear me
... good point about the exhaust pipe tip and obviously also helps not to have an exhaust leak.
Unlike MR I've never had to rev the engine when demonstrating Exhaust Jack use to students.
Placed under the side step, a 'standard' airbag will happily lift one side of a Ford Ranger about 1/2 a metre at idle which is full extension of the bag.
However if I am on my own I tend to use an air compressor more often than the exhaust as it gives better control.
Bottom line for me would be that if you are tight for space/weight and aren't travelling in sandy areas then, yeah, leave it at home but I stand by my original comment that absolutely nothing is better on Soft or Sandy Tracks, Beach or Dunes (which in WA is about 1/3rd of the State which pisses the 'Gropers off no end when you say it)
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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4th April 2018, 11:46 AM
#13
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
MudRunnerTD
Best place to lift is under the diff housing. Have another go.
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
Bottom line for me would be that if you are tight for space/weight and aren't travelling in sandy areas then, yeah, leave it at home
We'll have another go (although will have to wait a few days) as we most certainly will be on sandy tracks. Will try more revs (had set hand throttle to 1000rpm before) AND with air compressor.
It is possible I had been over cautious about puncturing the bag , perhaps they are tougher than I thought.
We did try under the side steps (aluminium Nissan items) but was concerned about the possibility of them getting bent up.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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4th April 2018, 11:58 AM
#14
I am he, fear me
They are pretty tough mate.
With the factory steps I would put it 1/2 under the step, 1/2 under the body.
For aftermarket stronger steps I just wack it under the steps
For wheel changing I put it under the Control Arm area IE as far out on the diff housing as practicable so all you lift is one wheel of load (IE about 750KG) and a minimum height.
Highly recommend a couple of carpet tiles/offcuts for piece of mind, esp over here where they have these huge vicious burrs called '3 cornered jacks'.
There aren't many 'bits' on a Patrol suspension/underbody sharp enough to puncture the bag (but there are hot bits) but a bit of carpet on top of the bag won't hurt.
Last edited by the evil twin; 4th April 2018 at 12:00 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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4th April 2018, 03:17 PM
#15
Patrol God
As for the exhaut jack I was to believe these were the bees knees.
Also have a theory on these green /black racing style pads. to me they work
best when under a lot of pressure a light tap an the brake pedal didnt give any real feel.
to me they are for what its worth a race pad and not many of us race around, bar half the forum
and you know who you are ha ha ha ,,,just a theory I had if you think about it
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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4th April 2018, 04:20 PM
#16
Moderator
Yeah i find if you give the car a bit of a rev it speeda thing up dramatically.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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4th April 2018, 06:16 PM
#17
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Also have a theory on these green /black racing style pads. to me they work
best when under a lot of pressure a light tap an the brake pedal didnt give any real feel.
to me they are for what its worth a race pad and not many of us race around, bar half the forum
and you know who you are ha ha ha ,,,just a theory I had if you think about it
Probably going a bit off topic but anyway ....... I've had race linings in twin leader drum brakes on old Triumphs. Absolutely useless until warmed up. I recall sailing through some red lights near home unintentionally when I first fitted them! Once warm they were fantastic so long as you remembered to just touch them now & again to keep them warm. With that in mind I questioned EBC techs about the performance of their Yellow Stuff pads - originally a compound developed for fast sedans used on track days, but now sold to also fit trucks & some 4wd's. Reputed to give a 15% performance improvement over the 6000 series Green Stuff pads I currently have. I was reassured that unlike race compounds of old, these will work well when cold & also have a far longer life than the softer compounds of old. I now have a set of Yellowstuff pads sitting in the shed, thinking I might have to change pads after our Tassie Trip, but now it seems it will be quite a way off before I need to change, when I do you'll hear about it here. May not suit all Patrols, but I questioned the Tech pretty hard about the best choice for ours carrying a constant load ... both were much the same price & Yellowstuff was his recommendation. The Greenstuff pads I have are head & shoulders above the original pads already ..... in all conditions. If I ever get keen I'll fit some braided lines - without them I don't reckon any Patrol (GU at least) gives good 'feel', but they work.
Last edited by Cuppa; 4th April 2018 at 06:18 PM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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