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9th July 2017, 11:55 AM
#11
Legendary
Originally Posted by
garett
my boss would swap his 4.8 gu for my gq if it had a turbo....
both are good, i just like my tank. the boss hates his auto cos it keeps doing solenoids. only real problem we've come across (never seen a 3l with a problem but heard about it a lot). and someone here might even have a fix.
a gu has a safety rating.... my motto is the other car is my crumple zone.
the gu is a bit more comfortable but the gq just looks way cooler.
Agreed. GQ looks way cooler. That's why I've been sticking with mine for past seven years.
Any ideas about the cause of high compression of the cylinder 1 mate?
It's 190psi, and should be around 170psi. It was 170psi last year and before.
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9th July 2017 11:55 AM
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9th July 2017, 12:54 PM
#12
Expert
A couple of thoughts about the 4.8 into GQ, I noticed that GVM is only 2800kg on the RB30 powered GQ, whereas it is about 3150 or so on the 4.2, (makes sense due to the much heavier engine and gearbox) the heavier 4.8 and gearbox might seriously eat into the load capacity, since I couldn't see the rego authorities upping GVM on a 20 plus years old vehicle with an engine swap? (Might be wrong I spose). I've heard that the 4.8 is taller and might require a body lift to fit into a GQ.
Wouldn't even consider swapping my GQ for a GU, the GU might be better in a bunch of ways but I love the old girl too much, RB30 and all.
93 GQ wagon, RB30, extractors, 2 inch tough dog lift, 5 spd, A/T KO2 32's, steel winch bar, rated recovery points, red arc dual battery set up, rhino roof racks, UHF etc etc. Slow and steady might not win the race but it gets me there eventually...
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12th July 2017, 08:36 PM
#13
Legendary
I did vapour test(CO test) and exhaust gas is definitely leaking into the coolant.
So, it's clear the head/head gasket is stuffed. Right now I'm wondering whether I should just get a fully reconditioned head as well as well as have the bottom end rebuilt.
I wonder whether the old bottom end might go kaput soon after installing a reconditioned head.
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15th July 2017, 09:42 PM
#14
Expert
If it's got a lot of Kay's on the bottom end, then seems like it would be a better (albeit a bit more expensive) idea to recon the whole engine, at least then the extra expense would see the engine last a long time and be reliable for remote touring too.
Would really be frustrating to do the top end only to have the bottom end fail shortly after, I guess it always comes down to budget though
93 GQ wagon, RB30, extractors, 2 inch tough dog lift, 5 spd, A/T KO2 32's, steel winch bar, rated recovery points, red arc dual battery set up, rhino roof racks, UHF etc etc. Slow and steady might not win the race but it gets me there eventually...
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15th July 2017, 10:31 PM
#15
Legendary
Originally Posted by
Patrol'n
If it's got a lot of Kay's on the bottom end, then seems like it would be a better (albeit a bit more expensive) idea to recon the whole engine, at least then the extra expense would see the engine last a long time and be reliable for remote touring too.
Would really be frustrating to do the top end only to have the bottom end fail shortly after, I guess it always comes down to budget though
Technically speaking, that's what has happened, sort of (not the bottom end but the top end).
Since, I did the cylinder head five years ago, I haven't done an enormous number km's on it.
But, I knew it's gonna fail prematurely at anytime.(Hence the reason I've been carrying STEAL SEAL with me all the time as well as head gasket).
Yeah, I even carried a spare head on some tours(didn't have that el cheapo head checked though).
I've been kinda half heartedly prepared for head/gasket failure in the middle of nowhere.
The reason was the head had a visible crack after the rebuild job(partial) at the rebuild shop.
I opted to not fix and used STEAL SEAL instead.
I've been told the bottom end of these RB30 NA engines are pretty solid unless somebody's done something really stupid to it.
I'm assuming neither me or the previous owner(s) have done anything stupid to harm the bottom end.
I personally think RB30 bottom end is solid, but the top end is crap(prone to failure too often than we would like to).
300+ k's on bottom end on NA setup is probably not a bad situation for these engines.
Bottom end rebuild at this stage is bit too much for me.
I'm gonna have to wait few more months before I have coins or time for that.
I"m keeping my fingers crossed. Bastard's been good to me(Of course, I looked after him/her).
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16th July 2017, 09:54 AM
#16
Patrol Freak
from what i was told the nissan head on the rb30's was good but the holden head was hit and miss, this was comparing a skyline to the vl, not sure which head went on the patrol. something about the holden head made somewhere else.
if your not going to do the bottom end at least check the bore and that the pistons don't slop in the cylinders.
if its worth doin its worth over doin
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16th July 2017, 11:52 AM
#17
Legendary
Originally Posted by
garett
from what i was told the nissan head on the rb30's was good but the holden head was hit and miss, this was comparing a skyline to the vl, not sure which head went on the patrol. something about the holden head made somewhere else.
if your not going to do the bottom end at least check the bore and that the pistons don't slop in the cylinders.
If that is the case, the spare cylinder head I have is a better one, 'cos it's a from a Skyline.
So far from the feeler gauge and ruler test, there is no warpage in the spare head, but I would have to have it
tested for cracks.
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16th July 2017, 01:43 PM
#18
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
dom14
If that is the case, the spare cylinder head I have is a better one, 'cos it's a from a Skyline.
So far from the feeler gauge and ruler test, there is no warpage in the spare head, but I would have to have it
tested for cracks.
The Holden header tank was also too low, which allowed air locks to form in the head and cause over-heating.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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16th July 2017, 02:15 PM
#19
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
mudnut
The Holden header tank was also too low, which allowed air locks to form in the head and cause over-heating.
that may even be the root of the holden head issues. didn't pay too much attention as i'm more of a ford man LOL
if its worth doin its worth over doin
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16th July 2017, 02:21 PM
#20
Legendary
Originally Posted by
garett
that may even be the root of the holden head issues. didn't pay too much attention as i'm more of a ford man LOL
The debut VL RB30 fitted the radiator slightly below the top of the cylinder head, which caused gravity induced cavitation issues inside the cylinder head water jacket, which resulted in frequent cracks in the head. They fixed it in subsequent models by raising the radiator just above the cylinder head.
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